I am unable to remove the ignition key on my 2001 MPV because it stops at the accessory position. If I remove the 1GKEY1 40 amp fuse, i.e., kill the power to the switch, I am then able to fully rotate and remove the key. As soon as the fuse is re-inserted, the problem also re-occurs. Does anyone know why this is happening or how to fix it (i.e., do parts have to be replaced)?

There is definetly some weird problem on your MPV. The key interlock circuit is provided power thru the BTN fuse and also the HAZARD fuse which is a battery supply circuit. The IGKEY1 circuit supplies power thru key cylinder to most everything else once key is cycled to run or start. Does not look to be any direct connection between the two looking at wiring diagram. Try pulling the HAZARD fuse and see what happens.

Removing the Hazard fuse also allows the key to be fully rotated and removed. Replace it, and the problem comes back. Is there a solenoid that needs to be replaced, or is it the entire lock mechanism?

Solenoid possible. Entire lock not likely. The key interlock solenoid is obviouly ok as it is doing its job and keeping you from removing your key. Power is supplied to the solenoid thru the Hazard fuse at all times. The ground for the solenoid is provided thru the microcomputer in the instrument cluster. If computer sees the key is on and the gear selector is in anything but 'park' it grounds the solenoid and key is stuck. So you either have a ground in the harness between the interlock solenoid and the instrument cluster or the instrument cluster is not getting the signal that you are in park. Does the gear selector indicator in the instrument cluster show the correct gear that you are in. (ie when in park is the 'P' underlined or highlighted in the instrument panel? That would tell us that the instrument cluster is indeed getting a "gear is in park' signal.

Yes. The instrument cluster displays the gear that is selected by the shift lever.

Thanks for return post rk2976. Have been thinking about this problem over the weekend and have a thought. If any other techs out there then try and help me out. Do not think you have a short in the harness due to pulling the IGKEY1 fuse also eliminated the problem. Since this circuit is not related to Key interlock then pulling this fuse 'killed' the instrument cluster but did not affect the Interlock circuit. If there was a short in this circuit then pulling the IGKEY1 would have no effect on the Key Interlock if it was shorted to ground in the harness since it is supplied power thru the Hazard fuse. Therefore there must be a fault in the instrument cluster logic. The correct gear is displayed so I would assume that Cluster is getting correct signal from trans range sensor but is still suppling ground for the key interlock despite getting the signal for being in Park. I think you have a fault in the Instrument Cluster computer. Wish I could give it a check before advising a replace of instrument cluster but this is best I can come up with. Maybe is time to take to dealer or trusted shop and give them the info that you have given to posts. They should be able to come up with an answer based on what we have talked about so far. If you wil PM you Vin # and mileage I will call Mazda tech line to see if they have run across this before and what others have done to repair. Sorry for rambling but putting the info to words helps me work out remote problem that I am unable to test for myself.

Saw this same problem posted on car-forums.com but there was no response. VIN is JM3LW28Y310207525.

Sorry but do you know you mileage as well. They always ask and I see you are currently on this topic as well. You sure do not have many warranty repairs listed. Only see two keyless transmitters in may and june of 2003 and then the cruise control cable for recall 2004f on 1/18/05. mileage there was 45139 so could use that and add some if needed. Dang warranty expired on 10/29/04 or we could be doing this under warranty

Sorry 55,296. Rather than keep draining the battery (I was pulling the fuse only at night), I decided to take it to the dealer. I don't expect a fix today, just a diagnosis. They claimed they had not heard of the problem before. I suggested they save themselves some time and call Mazda.

Okay. Mazda says the Transmission Control Module (TCM) is failing, and an indication that the car is in Park is not being sent. The module must be replaced at a cost of $586. The only alternative is to disable the control which would allow the key to be removed in any gear. I'll bite the bullet given the variety drivers in the family, and the desire to keep the vehicle several more years. You were on the right track. Thanks for all your help!

Do not agree with your dealers diagnose. [:'(]#1 you do not have a TCM. Trans control is performed by the PCM. #2 the park signal that the instrument cluster uses to determine key interlock is not from the PCM. There is a 'park' microswitch on the selector lever assembly that cluster uses to determine if key interlock or shifter interlock solenoids should be operated. I have an 01 MPV in my stall right now and disabled this switch and exactly duplicated your concern. The switch is part of the selector lever assembly and does not come separately. I show retail for this part at $270 or so.

I had the same problem, it is a mechanical issue. There is a microswitch that detects the shift is in P. For some reason the pin in the shift mechanism misses the microswitch and it does not disconnect the solenoid to release the key. I took it appart and bended a bit the microswitch flap so it will not miss the pin. Never had the problem again. Sorry I saw the posting only now. I am a new member, was looking for some other stuff and saw this posting.

Dan,
Is that Pin easy to get at? I have the same problem and would like to fix it myself if possible. Is there any links or how to's or pictures of where/what it looks like. That would be great news if I could fix it for the wifey..

Thanks,
MIke

yeah me to have the same problem, since i couldnt get it off, it drains the battery and have to jumpstart it everymorning, and as usual the elctronics acting weired, the alarms doesnt operate, ill try to find that microswitch that i could flip??? i still have no idea where to find it....anyone...thanks

helloo, how do i get in to what you have gone fixing so far, where is that microswitch, im starting to open the steering panel stuff, and im still looking for it. hopefully i could get in a while, but if you could tell me how it would be greatly appreciated...anyway if i get on it ill let you all know

If you take off only the upper column cover and look on the combination switch towards top and way on the backside you will see 2 wires running to a little black protrusion. This is the back side of the microswitch. Will see if I cannot get a pic of the front side and the little trip trigger part. Is very difficult to see.

I have found it and my linkage is hitting the switch just fine. Is there a way to disable it? I read here it could be that Microswitch or the TCM (I found that on the passenger side under the glove box). Just wondering how to proceed. Right now I am popping out the fuse to get the keys out.

Thanks,
MIKE

What year MPV do you have Grapepot? Assume that is at least a 2002 as you have a TCM under the carpet at drivers footwell. The TCM plays no role at all in the key interlock system. The instrument cluster both gets the signal from that Park position microswitch and controls the solenoid that locks the key in. If you want to repair then you will need to replace the combination switch as I noted earlier in the thread. If you only want to disable then is an easy process but remember that your key will now be removeable in any gear position.
Is a simple matter of locating the connector for the shift lock solenoid and disconnecting. The connector is over on the left side of the steering column just above the ignition switch connector. Pic below is of the connector. Has two wires coming from the harness side. One is Orange and other is Yellow w/ Green stripe. Unplug that connector and key interlock will be disabled.

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My MPV is a 2001. I saw instructions for the TCM reboot or something and found it on the passenger side. I am assuming it is the TCM.. LOL..

I'll try and disengage it for now. How difficult is it to replace?

THANKS for the tips and the pic.. That is a GREAT help.

Mike

2001 MPV should have the PCM and TCM integrated into one control unit behind the glovebox area. Would have a single 104 pin connector secured to the PCM with a 10mm head bolt. 02 MY saw the separation of the TCM and was then installed just at the carpet line in the passenger footwell and has two separate connector to it.
It is not difficult at all to replace the combo switch. 10mm socket and ratchet to remove air bag, 21mm socket to remove steering wheel, and the rest should all be phillips screws. If you need I can do a trial removal on our 04 shop van with some pics. Might be a little different but probably not too much.

I appreciate the offer, but I can live with just disconnecting it (which I did yesterday, simple with your instructions/pics)..

Thanks so much for the help, now I can go back to driving my car and the wife gets the MPV back.

Mike

PS. I'll definitely be back here for future problems.

I have a 2001 MPV with the same problem. [:'(] It must be a chronic problem with this year/model. Anyhow, I have the top column cover off and am looking for the microswitch to check the contacts. I think I have found it on the far-upper-back-right, but see no obvious way to remove it. I'd be HUGELY grateful if someone could post pics/instructions for how to remove and inspect it.

My local Mazda dealer is "sub-par" and I'd love to fix this myself.

Thanks,
Abc

(How sub-par you ask? After four visits in a row to address an "Engine" dash light, they assured me each time that it was fixed and the light was off. Each time the light was on. I didn't bother with a fifth visit.)

That would definitely be considered sub-par. Have you since resolved this 'engine' light on? You could disconnect the connector for the microswitch and do a continuity check but unplugging the connector for the key interock solenoid will pretty much tell you the same thing. The switch provides the ground path for the solenoid. The microswitch is unfortunately not available as a separate part to replace although you might be able to locate a similar switch from an electronic specialty store. Will see I can get you some removal tips but will probably intail removing the combo switch as there is not a whole lot of room to work in there as I am sure you know.

My wife's MPV, 2002, just developed the same problem. I did find if I "slam" it into park, the key will come out. Guess I will pull the top of the coloumn for now and pull that switch. Thanks for the pic, should make my life much easier.

Hi babyhuey,

No, I never did get the dash light issue resolved. They replaced an oxygen sensor but I think forgot to turn off the light. I'm going to try a different dealer, inconveniently farther away, and hopefully have better luck.

Anyhow, I still haven't been able to fix the stuck key problem except by taking out the hazards fuse which, of course, disables the turn indicators. I'll take another look at it today, but any further advice would be helpful.

Abc

Well, I took another look and I believe I found the switch. (a little thin metal paddle?) From what I can tell, it seems to be broken as it will stick to the shifter grease and then fall when tapped. In other words, the spring seems to be shot.

I guess it will have to go into the shop since replacing the whole assembly is far more work than I want to attempt for a family car. [&o]

Thanks for the help.

Abc

hello babyhuey

with your help i was able to figure out a trick that works, i installed a toggle switch under the dashboard or in the small space just like a cellphone compartment, and wired it to the hazzard fuse, so i dont have to open the fuse box near the pedals and pull it out then back, just fine solder the ends of the two wire plug it in the fuse socket where you removed the fuse, cut/break one line, put the fuse in between (solder or better yet make a socket for it), run the wires trough the dash and flip the switch when removing the key. also as an update you can use a push button switch so you wont forget to flip it back to ON when driving and wonder why you dont have signal lights hhehehe,.. hmm ok right now im thinking of putting the switch just beside the ignition key area so it may look like some other cars that you push the button to release the key hmm hehehe. how about that guys. :) make it safe ok.

alright ill see you guys again and to you babyhuey THANKS A LOT and GOD BLESS :)

That is a very clever idea osenessmpv.[sm=goodidea.gif]. Also a good idea to use a push button momentary switch so you will not forget to turn it back on.

Babyhuey,

I'm having the same problem. Where can I find that part retail (I'm having trouble locating anything online)?

To confess, I had problems with the pop-up camper lights today and believe I may have caused a short by being sloppy with the di-electric grease. Right after that, I had a brake light out and this problem began. Could that have caused it? I've been through the fuse panels and cannot find anything blown, and the hazard light fuse trick works perfectly, so I'm guessing it's this combo switch.

Thanks!

What year MPV do you have sprybot. There are different part numbers depending upon model year. It may be possible that shorting something in the trailer harness could affect the park switch but an outside chance. Since we have had so many with this problem of late I did a bit of investigating into ways you could check for sure and even disable without pulling fuses etc.

It's a 2003 MPV.

Everything else seems fine, so I was a little confused about a short causing such a specific issue without blowing a fuse, but the timing was pretty suprising. We had stopped for fuel and found a signal light out on the camper. The bulb seemd okay, so I tested some things and added the grease. Turns out it was the bulb after all, but after that moment, we couldn't remove the key and I later found a brake light out on the van itself.

Here is a way to eliminate everything else being a possible cause of stuck ignition key. About 5 inches straight forward of the ignition switch on the passenger side of the steering column is a connector with six wires in it. Three of them are black. First pic below is of that connector with the steering column covers off and lower panel loose and pulled down. Pic taken from seat area and you can see the relation of the connector to the ignition switch. Second pic is from the bottom with camera resting on the brake pedal. Easy access as you can see. Unplug that connector. If key can now be removed then the problem absolutely has to be a faulty park switch in the change lever assembly. If key cannot now be removed then problem is somewhere else. You could actually do a similar thing with installing a separate toggle or push button that osenessmpv used with the hazard fuse. His toggle interupted the power supply to the solenoid itself. Snipping and installing a toggle or switch at this connector wire would actually simulate the actual switch. The wire color at this connector for the park switch is Blue on 2000 and 2001 models. For 2002 and up you would want to use the Brown w/ White stripe wire. Shorting this wire to ground will simulate a Not In Park condition and not being able to remove the key. Not connected to ground would simulate an In Park condition and would allow you to remove the key. The other two colored wires are from the O/D OFF switch and is Black w/ Red stripe wire, Wire from the shift lock solenoid is White w/ Red stripe and is the solenoid that keeps you from taking out of Park position unless key is on and foot is on brake pedal. The other three wires in this connector are all black and are ground wires for each of these switches and solenoids.
Now if you do want to go ahead and fix the problem by installing a new change lever assembly then part number for 2000 and 2001 MPV's is LC62-46-10XE with MSRP of $246.90. 2002-2004 would be a LD47-46-10XB with MSRP of $250.40.
Pic from seat area
local://upfiles/1377/E9EA3905B15B41CCA4B2DAA3F5C07360.jpg
Pic from floorboard area
local://upfiles/1377/EAAAE072EB864B05A32CD892281B4F97.jpg

I am a new member on the forum. Thanks for all the helpful advice. The forum is a Godsend now just as I remember it when I made the decision to purchase the MPV 3 years ago. The ignition key in my wife's 2003 MPV just became stuck this afternoon. I disconnected the plug and corrected the problem. However, the power sliding rear doors do not work. I can understand the logic of these two issues being connected, but I needed a sanity check to be sure. If it is as I suspect, I assume the only way to correct it would be to change the $250 lever assembly. I am a mechanical engineer with a good bit of mechanical aptitude. What would be involved in changing this lever assembly? I guess what I am asking is if it would be too difficult for someone who is not a trained mechanic? Would you give me a basic run through of the steps it will take to change this part before I decide to take on this task myself? Thanks in advance for the info.

The power sliding doors get a park signal off of this switch too. Replacing the change control lever is not a difficult procedure.I did one this evening so I could get some pics and step by step. Give a check back tomorrow when I have some more time to type in a story and download the pics. Total R and R time took approximately 15-20 minutes.

That sounds great! Thanks a bunch! The wife will be excited to get the power doors back. Looking forward to your next post.

Tools you will need to replace the change control lever with park position microswitch so you can remove your key like normal people.
#2 phillips screwdriver
very small flat screwdriver or small prying device
ratchet and 4" or 6" extension
10mm, 12mm, and 21mm socket

First thing to do is to disconnect the negative battery cable and wait at least 5 minutes for the air bag backup battery to deplete stored energy. You will be removing the drivers air bag and this will make it safe to do so. Go grab a beer or something.:D



local://upfiles/1377/D341C80DA3984DC7A640E5B8C1E2B020.jpg
Remove these small hole covers on both sides of the steering wheel with small flat screwdriver.
local://upfiles/1377/F028F2495A244B9680EC40670171813D.jpg
Use 10mm socket to remove both of the bolt heads that are under the hole covers. If horn honks then you did not disconnect the battery cable so get-er-done.
local://upfiles/1377/E00F25A22B6D481AAAAF3B2140D85828.jpg
Pull the air bag out and turn it air bag over and use the small flat screwdriver to pry the BLACK portion of this connector up. It should pop up approx 1/4 of an inch and the connector will easily come loose. Do not pry on the orange or yellow connector part with out releasing the BLACK lock in tab or it will break!!
local://upfiles/1377/CEA25C25C5FE4AB8BB85DC7B97170B0C.jpg
Use ratchet, extension, and 21mm socket to remove the large nut in the center of the steering wheel. Turn nut counterclockwise while holding steering wheel to remove. Release the connector I am pointing to. Notice that I have marked a yellow, vertical line on the steering wheel and steering shaft. This is so you can easily reinstall the steering wheel in the original position so steering wheel is not off-center to one side. Grasp the steering wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and rock back and forth to release steering wheel from shaft. If is being stubborn then alternate between grasping at 12 and 6 o'clock position. If you have a steering wheel puller handy all the better. Make note of how the wires feed thru the hole in steering wheel as you remove. Use a piece of tape to keep the clockspring from turning.
local://upfiles/1377/391ACEBB05F34E7BB7AF4453AE4D939E.jpg
Now remove the steering column covers. To remove the upper cover just lift straight up. It will unsnap from the lower cover. Remove lower column cover by removing the three screws that retain it. The one more towards front of van is a different color and thread so make note of that for reinstalling.

Continued from last post

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From underneath, use a 12mm socket to remove this nut. Mark nuts position on the cable so it can be reinstalled in same place. You will see that the slot it goes on is elongated for adjustment. Pull off cable and set aside. This is the cable that runs to the transmission for changing from Park to Drive to Reverse, etc.
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Back up top remove the three phillips screws that hold the clockspring. Note that I have used a piece of tape to keep the clockspring from turning. Will just make it quicker to reinstall later. If you think it might have turned already then there is a reseting procedure printed right on the front. I did not disconnect the electrical connectors for this as it easily pulled toward you and off of the steering shaft. Can just let it hang there.
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3 more phillips screws to remove the combination switch. These screws are different then the ones you just removed so make a note of that. Again, did not remove connectors but easily pulled toward you and off the steering shaft.
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If you have not already unplugged this connector for the change control switches then now is the time to do that.
local://upfiles/1377/D1D3FA8D6AF748D8B6632A3295C0BBE2.jpg
Use 10mm socket to remove the two nuts on left side and one bolt on right side that retain the change control assembly to steering shaft. Pull straight off toward you and you are halfway there..:D

continued. Last one I promise.

local://upfiles/1377/6AC5A1EF4DD24C6EB427284B1A31CAB0.jpg
And there is the offending microswitch that cost you all that time and money. Looks like a little 25 cent part doesn't it. If you have a new change control assembly to install then reverse the order that you took them apart. Not all that bad eh?
Oh, and make sure to give that switch a good whack with something heavy for making you go thru all of this.:D

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One last diagram that may show how to release the stopper plate on the air bag connector. Make sure that when you reinstall the connectors (They are color coded and will only fit in one direction by the way), That you press that black stopper plate in untill it is flush with flat of connector or the air bag light will be on first time you start it up.

Not too intimidating (the wife lost all confidence in me when I showed her the pictures LOL!). Thanks for taking the time to help me out. If you were close enough, I would buy you a nice dinner somewhere.

Once again, THANKS!

Brad

Restore the confidence Brad by making the repair seem easy. It really is an easy thing to replace. I put in so many pics just to be as specific as possible.Thought of reducing down to just 5 as that is all you can download in a single post but thought that the extra views would help out and make much easier to do. The hardest part was probably getting the steering wheel to release from the shaft, otherwise just a matter of removing a few screws and bolts. If you have any difficulty at all then give a post back and will help all I can.
Dinner would be nice but I would rather get a post back from you saying that all went well and the MPV is back to normal. That would be a much greater reward to me.:)

Well, once again, my dealer has scored points with me. I called about getting my shift lock solenoid replaced under my extended warranty. They just informed me that the salesman sold me an "aftermarket" warranty, not Mazda, so the shifter and related items are not covered under this warranty. Over the 4 yrs I have owned this car, there have been few issues with it, but for each small thing, the dealer has managed to say it is not covered under warranty.
I have been A plan eligible for my entire adult life and have never used it until my wife liked the Mazda. The car itself isn’t too bad, but the dealer has put such a bad impression in my mind, I doubt I will ever purchase another one.

Sounds like a change in dealership is more in order than the MPV that you seem to have had few problems with over the years!!!!!!

There is an MTOL for 2000-2004 MPV's with this problem to have the change control mechanism replaced. There is an update Park micro switch integrated, not a recall rather a bulletin.

Not only an MTOL but now there is even a TSB #05-006/06 regarding the switch. There is also an undated and supposedly modified change lever assembly for the 2002-2006 models. The new part number is LD47-46-10XB. 2000-2001 still using the same replacement change lever assembly with part #LC62-46-10XE. Make sure that if you get a change lever for the 2002-2006 that you get the latest part available.

babyhuey- just had this problem with my 2000 mpv. thanks for your help on this topic, it saved me a lot of grief. your pictures were especially helpful. here's my question - my dealer wants $270 for the change selector. this seems a little steep, so my question is why not just unplug the connector permanently? i don't use the o/d button, and the two park switches, well, it seems i can live without them. am i missing something?

I have same problem after I reflash eeprom mileage. I have to disable solinoid. I think came from microprocessor in instrument cluster.

New member and I found this topic just after my 1995 MilleniaS would not let go of the key from the ignition. It will release after I disconnect the battery post cable. The dash board shift display registers the proper position for being in park but the key acts like it doesn't get the message. Is one of the previous post responses the answer to my problem? I haven't taken it to be diagnosed and have simply been disconnecting the battery cable when I arrive at my destinations. What steps do I need to do to diagnose the source of the problem?
Thanks for any help,
Tom

Similar problem tvax1 but just in a different spot. No need to disconnect the battery however. Removing the 15 Amp 'ROOM' fuse in the underdash fuse box will also disable the key interlock solenoid.
The most proabable problem is a faulty "Not In Park" microswitch. Best I can tell, it is build into the shift lock actuator assembly and is not a serviceable switch. A new shift lock actuator will run you aroud $150 MSRP.

I took out the room fuse in my Millenia 2000 and just like you said I able to get the key out. It still kills my clock radio and alarm system but I can gladly take the key out.

Hey BabyHuey, quick question. How will disconnecting the key interlockaffect the rest of the electronics system? I.E. is it safe to just leave this interlock disconnected, or could that in turn cause further problems? Thanks

Sorry to hear about the problem with the key. I purchased the same vehicle (same year and everything) a few months ago and have not had this problem. Incidentally, if you're in the market for a new car, you ought to check out the guys at Randy Adams, Inc. in New Braunfels, Texas. I have NEVER had a better car-buying experience.

Thanks for the heads up on the key thing. I'll watch out for that. Let us know if it persists or if you come to a resolution!

Hello all - I have a 2002 Mazda MPV and came here for help since my ignition key is stuck and will not go into the lock position so I can take the key out. My husband removed the fuse and the key did come out now, so thanks for the info. I have seen different answers to what the problem is and what needs to be replaced. How can I tell which of these things will need to be replaced? What else runs from these fuses that I will be shutting down by taking the fuse out?

Any help would be appreciated........why do these things always happen on the weekend and after the garage closes?

TIA,
Crissi

Huey,

As you probably can guess, I haven't been on in a while. Just wanted to drop you a note to let you know that I replaced the shift column without incident. Everything went off without a hitch. I have also replaced the power window unit in the driver's door. My (and especially the wife's) confidence is growing slowly. We had to have the coil packs replaced (about $500 with the work being doneby a friend of mine).

Hope all is well with you and yours. Once again thanks for the help.

Brad

I was wondering if the pictures could be reposted.

Thanks,
HitchHiker

There is a safety interlock switch in the gear select linkage system. It prevents key removal if vehicle is not in park.
If that switch is misaligned, has failed, or its connector is dirty or has failed, the "brain thing" is tricked into thinking you're not in park, and it will prevent key removal. Switch things are cheap and easy to diagnose, "brain things" are neither; go for that switch thing.
Its called the transmission range switch (TRS) and is mechanically linked to the shift console via a cable. The link setup is adjustable at the transmission interface.
Normal linkage wear and tear can eventually de-index the linkage to the point where while the shift lever is in park, the transmission range switch position is still in the reverse sector, so the key is locked into the ignition.
So there ain't no $582 "brain thing" to it. It's mechanics, electrics, relays, and solenoids, period.
Go to another Mazda place, tell them the problem, say "Is it possible the transmission range switch adjustment is the problem?" and the chances are you won't get stung.
At worst he'll tell you the TRS, linkage cable, or whatever had to be replaced.

What year MPV do you have Grapepot? Assume that is at least a 2002 as you have a TCM under the carpet at drivers footwell. The TCM plays no role at all in the key interlock system. The instrument cluster both gets the signal from that Park position microswitch and controls the solenoid that locks the key in. If you want to repair then you will need to replace the combination switch as I noted earlier in the thread. If you only want to disable then is an easy process but remember that your key will now be removeable in any gear position.
Is a simple matter of locating the connector for the shift lock solenoid and disconnecting. The connector is over on the left side of the steering column just above the ignition switch connector. Pic below is of the connector. Has two wires coming from the harness side. One is Orange and other is Yellow w/ Green stripe. Unplug that connector and key interlock will be disabled.

local://upfiles/1377/A1901C1D0F984735BA47CF93E2330CC1.jpg

We have the same problem with the key/ ignition switch stuck in park. I've found the connector, the brown wire with white stripe (ours is a 2003), but the white connector with the 2 wires does not want to come out. Is there a release switch of some sort, or another trick I should know about? Thanks for any help anyone can give!

Over the weekend, I pulled the intake manifold to change the plugs on my wife's 2002 MPV (w/91k mi), and wound up doing the last part of the job in the rain, (with the - battery terminal disconnected). I finished up, and took it out for a drive, and it ran well (solving the hesitation problem). When i went to take the key out, it wouldn't budge, and I found this thread, and went through the motions re: disabling the solenoid circuit by pulling the ROOM or HAZARD or ignition key fuses, and finally, took apart the steering column and unplugged the connector to disable the TRS.

Of course, now, the power sliding doors don't work. Before I pay the $225 for a TRS switch, is there any way I can be certain that this will fix it, or any way to troubleshoot further? Is it possible that some moisture caused a short, and this will dry out in a week?

Any guidance/advice would be much appreciated.

Hi all, my first post here.

We just began experiencing SKS ourselves. OK, I made that up - Stuck Key Syndrome. Anyway, great info here. I've done the battery disconnect thing and now I'm going to try and give some of these solutions a go tomorrow. Will report back.

Following instructions here, I chose to disable the microswitch. Took about 10 minutes. Hardest part was separating the connector.

First, it's mounted to a metal holding clip. Slides out when you leverage it just enough

Second, the connector clip itself of course has a tab that has to be compressed to release connector. Bit of a push-and-slide-at-the-same-time thing.

Narrow space but a pair of needlenose and long thin screwdriver did the trick.

My wife is happy, no more stuck key. And we're not worried about the key coming out in any position. Worth saving $550+ for mechanic replacement.

Thanks everyone.

Thanks to the photos and instructions on this thread I was able to find the micro switch. The switch wasn't making contact with the gear shift lever because the switch had moved back a tiny bit out of position. I put my finger behind the switch and pushed it forward toward the gear shift lever and my key came right out. I then used a small dental style mirror so I could see to put a couple of drops of super glue behind the switch to hold it in place. It has been a few months now and everything is still working fine. The fix took less than 5 minutes.

By the way, to get to the switch all I did was pop off a single plastic cover on top of the steering column. It snaps off and on so I didn't even need a screwdriver.

I wanted to post this to thank you all for the photos and instructions that I found here and I'm hoping that what I have discovered will work for a few others.

All the best,
Hiker, Mazda MPV 2001

Hi all,
First iI ould liek to thank all who wrote those very usefull tips. For my 2001 MPV, the indicator shows I am in Park position, but the ley would not turn to lock, stuck on Acc position. It goes out when I remove the Hazard switch.

I am trying to solve it thorugh ur instructions, but I can not find the pictures. Is there a way to see them orrepost them?
Thanks

I wa not able to reach the sensor (the micro switch) so I just disconnected the solonoid. Now I will be able to remove the key in whatever position
Thanks guys. Still pics on how to reach for the microswitch would be appreciated
Cheers

Hi, guys. I have the "key stuck" problem with my 2003 MPV. Thank heavens for you guys - I took the 15A fuse out and could at least get the key out. It is a bit obnoxious to keep sticking the fuse in and taking it out, but a good short-term solution.

I am a mechanical engineer also and would like to fix this without spending $$ - would love to see the photos - are they supposed to be visible on the site or do I have to do something? Perhaps they are no longer up? :confused:

I have the power sliding doors - are you saying that if I disable this switch it could cause them to stop working?

Thanks for the help.:)

I had the same problem on my 2004 MPV on two occasions. I finally figured out that there is a control component under the mat on the passenger side. When I get the carpet cleaned, humidity gets into the component and the key won't come out. The problem goes away after a couple of days. The dealer was useless for troubleshooting. Bottom line - I don't get the carpet cleaned anymore.

Hi There I have this exact problem and it looks as though your instructions are exactly what I need. I am not able to view the pics that were posted...I may be doing something wrong...thanks very much in advance. Brett

For those are looking for photos for this issue. There are few in the other forum, the small metal tab moved back a little, use a small flat head screw driver or finger to push it forward from the top so the gear change lever can push it down when it's park position.

http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=10145&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

Over the weekend, I pulled the intake manifold to change the plugs on my wife's 2002 MPV (w/91k mi), and wound up doing the last part of the job in the rain, (with the - battery terminal disconnected). I finished up, and took it out for a drive, and it ran well (solving the hesitation problem). When i went to take the key out, it wouldn't budge, and I found this thread, and went through the motions re: disabling the solenoid circuit by pulling the ROOM or HAZARD or ignition key fuses, and finally, took apart the steering column and unplugged the connector to disable the TRS.

Of course, now, the power sliding doors don't work. Before I pay the $225 for a TRS switch, is there any way I can be certain that this will fix it, or any way to troubleshoot further? Is it possible that some moisture caused a short, and this will dry out in a week?

Any guidance/advice would be much appreciated.

Many thanks to this forum for clues on how to solve the "stuck key" problem on our 2002 MPV ES. I pulled the 2-position connector from the left side of the steering column, which allows removal of the key in any shifter position.
The next day I was made aware that the rear sliding doors would not open unless the ignition was switched off. This symptom traces back to the same cause: a broken microswitch arm behind the park position on the gear selector. Having no interest in removing the air bag, steering wheel, etc. and purchasing a $270 replacement part (although the directions and pictures provided through this site and links are excellent), the solution boiled down to cutting the two wires (green and black) to the microswitch. With the wires cut, the power doors may be opened with the gear selector in any position.
If this sounds risky, keep in mind that locking the rear doors or pressing in the sliding door "power off" button in the lower left section of the dashboard will keep the rear doors from opening. In other words, if you treat them just like any other door and lock them when you're in motion, you have no worries about an accidental door opening while in motion. Using the child locks and the "power off" switch will keep small hands from opening the rear doors using either the push-button or the on-door handle.

This fix may not be for everyone, but on a 7-year old vehicle with 127,000 miles, it works well enough for us and probably saved $400 in parts and labor.