2002 Millenia, 2.5L, Fuel Pump Relay...Experience please!
#1
2002 Millenia, 2.5L, Fuel Pump Relay...Experience please!
Hello. Looking for a little assistance. Vehicle will not start. I have just replaced the fuel pump (FP) and fuel filter in the vehicle. I have performed the jumper wire test in the diagnostic plug/port. With the jumper wire in place, I get the FP to pump gas due to the fact that I can hear it flowing through the fuel rails. I can also hear the FP through the access hole in the trunk since I still have it open. The problem...with no jumper wire and car set up as normal, when I turn the key on, my FP does not prime the motor as it should.
Now, the FP relay...my relay is located in the fuse panel under the hood. Not under the cruise control module as I have read in other posts. I pulled the relay, opened it, visual inspection - it looks great. I applied 12V to it. Contact works beautifully. All remaining fuses in both panels have been checked and are good to go.
I am tapped out at the moment for ideas. Anything you all have would be great. Thanks in advance!
Now, the FP relay...my relay is located in the fuse panel under the hood. Not under the cruise control module as I have read in other posts. I pulled the relay, opened it, visual inspection - it looks great. I applied 12V to it. Contact works beautifully. All remaining fuses in both panels have been checked and are good to go.
I am tapped out at the moment for ideas. Anything you all have would be great. Thanks in advance!
#2
Does the vehicle start and run? Do you get the Fp running for a second when the ignition switch turned to the on postion?
At the fuel pump connector have you got a Live and Earth ???
Let me know and i will try to advise you the best i can .
At the fuel pump connector have you got a Live and Earth ???
Let me know and i will try to advise you the best i can .
#3
The vehicle does not start. The starter will turn but I can not get it to crank over. The FP does not do the normal prime when the key is turned to the on position. On a side note, on an attempt to start, once I let off of the key (back to the on position) the car will cycle the FP for the 2 seconds that it is supposed to. It is very strange. I have not physically put a multimeter to the FP connector @ the FP. I figured since I can hear it at the fuel rails that my circuits are closing and the FP is getting the necessary power. Notes since my last post. 12V+ at my injector plug harnesses is good. Neg Gnd for all injectors are good during a start cycle. Timing belt inspected, Good to go. All pulleys line up to the best of my visual inspection. I am getting spark at my new plugs. New cap & rotor. New Crankshaft position sensor. Plugs get wet with gas upon starting. Smell raw fuel out the tail pipe. It is very odd. With my experience, it almost sounds like a car that has lost the timing belt or has jumped time. Thanks for the reply.
#4
Try putting a little oil down each cylinder it might be bore wash??. Have you checked engine compression ??? I once had a fault with a cam gear location pin coming adrift and what would happen is that the belt and pulleys turn as normal but the cam does not causing NON START ... Damn i pulled my hair out with that car it took me 3 days to work out that this was the fault, Very strange fault , as you say the vehicle should start if everything is as it should be . Is the battery at 12.5v i have had a weak battery stop a miata MX5 roadster from starting once . Hope this helps.
#5
Interesting stuff above. I have not checked compression yet. Here is an update since my last post. Noticed a louder than usual hum coming from the Idle Air Ctrl Valve. Natural thought....clean it! So I did. To get the IACV off you have to pull the throttle body. Upon doing so I discovered that the intake was nasty! It was nearly black. I commenced to cleaning that. Here's where it gets even better...I can get the car to run now however it takes some playing with. I unplug the IACV, feather the gas and she'll start. Once started, the car won't idle untill I plug back in the IACV. Once I do so, the car idles great. Smooth too. So the current problem at hand is (1) wont start unless under the conditions stated above and (2) I only have functionality out of about 1/4 of the gas pedal. Pushing the gas pedal no more than a 1/4 of the way down will allow my 'revs" to soar all the way up to 4,000 with no problems. If I push any more out of the pedal, it spits and sputters and cuts out on me. Almost like the feeling or sound of a rev limiter. But its not the rev limiter. Just a period of no power. The mystery goes on.
#6
Mmmmmm Ok..... When the vehicle is running does it sound ok? ie does it sound as it normally would or do you have a different engine tone? . This is an odd fault , Have you checked around the intake system for any leaks / blockages? Is your Mass air flow sensor in good working order? If you disconnect the Oxygen sensors does it effect the start up ? . What condition are the spark plugs ? Maybe the IAC valve could be faulty causing you to have difficult start ??? . Does it have a throttle position sensor? make sure its reading as it should . ( I work in the Uk and some of our vehicles are named different ) .
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