Hi all!

I'm hoping someone here may be able to shed some light on my problem. I've done quite a lot of searching but not turned up much. Anyway...

I have a 98 Mazda 626 2.0L Gsi with 5 speed manual gearbox (UK model). with 120k on the clock. The car is pretty much fine when cold and doing short trips like the school run etc, however as it gets hot it seems that the clutch doesn't disengage properly (it seems to drag) which makes it really difficult to get into lower gears, 1st is nigh on impossible. So normally end up having to use 2nd to pull away etc.. Its seems to be getting progressively worse so now that 2nd and 3rd are becoming more difficult. If I switch off the engine and engage 1st then start it up the car will creap (like an auto) without the brake being held on and with the clutch fully depressed.

I though it might be a fluid problem so I bled the clutch slave cylinder (on the front of the engine), I couldn't get any pressure in the system so had to resort to back bleeding it from the brake system. Only then could I get up any pressure in it and it was only marginally better than before, but with time it has gotton worse.

I can press the slave cylinder piston in with my finger, there is no resistance, is this normal?

I suspect its a problem with the slave although it doesn't appear to have any leaks or obvious cracks defects etc.

I spoke to a friendly mechanic who said it's probably a problem with the clutch in that the shaft/thrustbearing is lacking in lubrication and is sticking. But he also said it tends to happen the other way round (problem when cold but loosens when hot). he also said it's not an easy job on my model (I read into that it expensive).

So does anyone have any thoughts on this, I'm hoping to get away with not having to put in a new clutch?

It is also starting to show me the ABS warning light, which comes on occasionally (I don't think this is related) and the brake resevioir warning light, even though the resevoir is full. (so have unplugged that for now). The brake system works perfectly though btw.

 

Your odometer reading is a bit low for a shot clutch, but it's getting there.
With the hydraulic issue, here's what happens; the viscosity of the fluid is high when cold, and the seals are also stiff, so worn seals will still work. As the engine warms things up, the fluid viscosity drops considerably while the seals also soften up, so the worn supple seals bypass more of the thinner liquid, so you get a progressively smaller actuator stroke. The reason doing the slave end thing helped a bit is because you reduced the slave end pressure needed, hence the line pressure, hence you reduced the volume of fluid bypassing the leaking seal(s).
Since the temperature rise is highest nearest the engine, the most likely culprit is the slave cylinder seal. A sound practice though is do both now, or else expect to be doing the master pretty soon.
Start by getting down on the floor and cleaning up the pedal pivot area and giving it a shot of graphite spray lubricant. Then shoot some into the slave linkage up front too (the manufacturer actually advises disulphide for this, but graphite is good too).
Now, back in the cab gain, work the clutch to spread the lubricant, and using your hand, operate the clutch very smartly and again very slowly. If the resistance you feel is less when slow, you can be certain your seals are defective.
Once the hydraulics have a clean bill of health, you should adjust the clutch (contrary to common belief, it IS adjustable). The adjustment is by a nut and clevis arrangement on the threaded end of the master cylinder rod where it couples to the pedal in the cab. You need a manual to set up the pedal height, free travel distance etc. to the prescribed limits (very important). Finally, make sure the starter interlock plunger switch clearance is correct. See how things go; you'll at least get yourself a few more clicks, and have done work which would have been needed in any case.
Finally, have a beer and put a cold compress on the sore neck you're almost certain to have got working on the pedal linkage up under the dash.

 

I'm addressing the ABS warning light as a separate issue because I'm less familiar with this (and detest ABS anyway). You should not ignore it. The low fluid level switch and ABS fault logic are serially connected, either by hard wire or by logic, so kill one you kill both. If fluid loss from the reservoir is not an issue, the clutch thing has nothing to do with the ABS unless you used the wrong fluid and trashed the brake hydraulics too.
You would be well advised to get that attended to soon, and don't trust your friendly mechanic either; after all he dropped the ball on the clutch, didn't he?