I've noticed that since new, the clutch on my 2009 Mazda5 (5spd) will burn very easily. I've always driven manual transmissions and have NEVER had a clutch burn as easily as this car. It has done this in routine driving where purposefully slipping the clutch a little (ie, taking off slowly on gravel so as to avoid tire spin). And, if driven aggressively, even if the clutch is fully engaged and my foot off the pedal, it will slip and burn under high load such as taking off from a stop while heavy on the gas. Again, this is with the clutch fully engaged and it will still slip and burn. In my mind, the clutch should NEVER slip if fully engaged unless it is under way too much load to the point of abuse...which it hasn't been.

I've read about others who have complained about Mazda clutches being weak, but am looking for some input from others that have manual transmissions that have noticed their clutch burning from "normal" driving.

Am I correct in assuming there is not adjustment for the clamping force of the clutch?

Thanks!

 

No Adjustment, it is Hydraulic. I myself would be taking it back into Mazda, sounds like a defective clutch or pressure plate.
BTW how many miles does it have on it?

 

Sorry for the slow response...have been out of town. The car has 6,000 miles on it.

 

Right and wrong. There are no hydraulic trims, but there are mechanical trims at the pedal end, and there is an adjustable clevis link between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder. Furthermore the distance between clutch engaged and clutch decoupled are very small on these cars (on almost 20 years worth of various Toyotas it was the same), so pedal setup is critical.
I noticed on my '99 Protege, that the clutch slave cylinder was located way down and forward of the engine pivot axis, and I think what happens is that as the engine tilts from torque reaction on the mounts, the clutch datum kind of "walks away" from the engine (or vice versa).
So in conclusion, as the engine, engine mounts, and even the exhaust system hangers bed themselves in, the clutch setup may drift off optimum.
The other issue is lubrication. I thought my clutch was getting ragged until I lubed the pedal hardware and the slave actuator (inside the corrugated boot on the transmission) with a graphite spray; the difference was astonishing, the clutch felt snappy and the gear changes into first and reverse were just great.
If the clutch linkage is adjusted, be sure the starter kill switch is also adjusted if needed.

 

I own a 2006 Mazda 5, manual, which I drive about 12000 km a year, mainly highway driving. A few weeks ago on a long trip from Toronto to DC my clutch basically broke down and had to be replaced. I had noticed it slipping earlier already.

I only have 50,000 km, about 30,000 miles, on the car and I have never had a clutch break down on such a low mileage. Contacted Mazda Canada but they refused to refund me the expenses, about US$1450.

Is is unusual for a clutch to break down after such low mileage?

 

I have a clutch story for you folks. I just purchased a Mazda 3 showing 28 miles. I wrote the check about 6 PM today. It was a last minute "cars for clunkers: deal. I parted with a 93 Camaro. I drove Mazda 3 about 30 miles home. When I got out of the car, I smelled something like a fish oil odor. I saw no fluid underneath or in the engine compartment. The tires had some kind of shiny oil on them. I smelled the tires. It did smell like fish. Later even though it was dark, I decided to drive up to the grocery store. The engine seemed to reving up quickly and not engaging the transmission. I rode around the grocery story parking lot once then no power. I could put the clutch in or take it out -- no help in moving the car. I have brakes. I think the brake and clutch use the same reservoir so I bet I find fluid full in the morning. The Mazda 3 is now showing 70 miles. Is the clutch plate made out of some nylon or amine product? I am sure that it is burned out. This is not a good start to my Mazda experience.

 

Fluid loss will result in the clutch becoming fully coupled. You will not be able to change gears. Drive slip or loss associated with fluid loss suggests a major defect or assembly error such that the drive and driven plates are so far apart that (a) the pressure plate springs can't apply engaging force sufficient to couple the engine to the drive train, and (b) the slave cylinder piston overtravel has probably shoved it right out of the cylinder.
The bad news is your car is unsafe to drive and should be towed by the dealer back to his place. The good news is that you have a cast iron case for either a warranty claim or (probably) a common law claim for unfit for intended use.
For people who think that loss of hydraulic fluid can in some circumstances be treated as just a nuisance, you should wake up and smell the coffee. DOT 3 and DOT 4 hydraulic fluids have a flash point of around 125C and a boiling point of 400C. It burns like alcohol with a intense heat and a colorless flame, but unlike alcohol, it does not evaporate at normal temperatures. This translates to a situation where fluid leaking can accumulate without evaporating off, and in contact with a hot exhaust system, or triggered by a spark of any sort, can set your wheels on fire real quick and real bigtime, making it a proper chariot of fire.

 

Thanks, oldeng.

Before the tow truck took it, I got a chance to check the fluid in the clutch/brake reservoir. It was full. It was the cleanest, clearest fluid I have ever seen in any automobile. It had no odor. The Mazda 3 was towed to the dealer. The service tech called me. He said that the clutch was burned out, but he did not know why the clutch burned out. He would pull the transmission and look at it. I told him that I was worried. The Internet was saying that dealers would not pay for new clutches even covered under warranty. The dealer would always say that the driver just had normal wear and tear. This gentleman said, "Yeah". I was shocked. I asked again. He said that was the rule in every dealership he had worked. I asked if he could fix it. He said he could.

Do you think this problem can be fixed? From the odor, I am guessing that the pressure plate must have just burned up. How could that happen in 40 miles? I talked to the general manager. He said he would make an automatic as easy as possible. Should I negotiate for an automatic? I really miss my Camaro right now.

 

Forget about dealers "walking away from warranties"; if they try, then fine, in which case they have to confront the "unfit for intended use" provisions in common law, lemon laws, breaches of the provisions of the various consumer protection statutes, and possibly even punitive damages to boot. I'm no lawyer, but I sure as hell have a pretty fair idea of when and where it is appropriate to seek recourse to it. You stick to your guns, and any nonsense, get back on this forum and start just by putting a name and address of the dealer involved.
As for the automatic transmission offer, that's a decision only you can make, but if your prefernce was for an automatic, I have to ask why you bought the stick shifter in the first place. I personally don't like automatics at all. For starters, go to a website where the OBDII diagnostic trouble codes are listed, and counted the total, and the number associated with engine/ powertrain only. It's reached the point where the number of DTCs associated with automatic transmissions is damn near equal to the number associated with the bare bones needed for transportation.
Add to that that Mazda and Ford made a "strategic alliance", with Mazda doing the engine end and Ford doing the automatic transmission. They tied the knot on this marriage made in hell with a piece of cable which mechanically links the shift lever to an electric switch on the transmission body which in turn operates a bunch of solenoid valves which in turn steer the fluid in the transmission to (hopefully) control the gear;
not the best arrangement if you like snappy gear shifts.
Add to this, the engine "brane thing" may decide that the engine is a bit out of sorts, and put the whole thing into a limp mode, which inhibits gear shifts from loading the engine to the max. (you lose overdrive, and may even be compelled to run in second gear).
Oh yeah, and don't forget the cherry on top of the sundae; if this wizard arrangement gets out of adjustment/ alignment due to cable stretch/ wear between the console and the tranny, the stick may be in the park notch, but the misalignment makes the logic on the transmission switch think otherwise; so just to be on the safe side it reminds stupid old you that you left the car gear select in an unsafe position by not allowing you to get the key out of the ignition lock!
Now tell me, how the hell do you ZOOM ZOOM with an arrangement like that ???

 

oldeng,

Oldeng, thanks again for the advice. I did not know Ford was doing the automatic transmissions. I think your most important point is that a buyer should know what they want before they go out to deal. I just got back from the dealership. The general manager and I had both calmed down. He put me in a $30,000 loaner. He told me that he wanted me to be happy. I think everything is going to be fine. Thanks.