I have had my transmission replaced a over year ago when it went out. Tonight as I came to a stop and began to saccelerate again my car sputter and hesitated (kinda bogging). It didn't fully feel like it did when my transmission went out but it made me think of that instantly because of the worst. I Wanted to know if anyone knows what is wrong. Fuel injectors? Fuel Pump? some kind of sensor? There are no lights on or anything.

 

I woke up this morning and went to the store to put some injector cleaner in it and fill the tank with good gas. This did not help. The check engine light actually turn on instead. I read in other forums people talking about different sensors like mass air flow, and others. What is the probability that this is that instaed of my timing being off? it feels like it is missing or that the gas is not getting to the engine right. Does anyone have any imput?

 

What year and model of Mazda and what engine are you driving PcBrEak05. Sounds like you may be getting some engine missfire with the bogging and hesitation. CEL now turning on could well be giving a very good clue as to what the problem is but will not know unless you get the code number. That would be you best help at this point.

 

Sorry-
My car is a 2002 Mazda Protege 5. Is is an automatic. I believe it is either a 2.2 or 2.0 liter. What is meant by CEL? Would you reccomend me changinf my spark plugs?

 

WSould it be a possibility of my timing belt slipping, breaking, ot on the verge of doing either? Possibly my distributor? I can't take it to the shop until Monday and I don't want to get ripped off when that happens so I am trying to learn as much as possible.
Thanks for all your help!

 

CEL means Check Engine Light. You have the 2.0 l engine in a 2002 PR5 and it does not have a distributor. Check around with local parts stores such as Autozone. They have a code scanner that will connect to your car thru the OBDII port and give you a code for why the CEL is on. Code will start with letter P and then have four numerical digits after such as P0300. P0300 just happens to stand for random engine missfire which is what I suspect you will have but lets find out. The check at parts store should be free as they will want to sell you something to fix that code. Do not want their diagnosis thank you just the code number. They are after all parts sellers and not technicians.

 

You have been much help. I will be going to get this done tomorrow. I have read a site that states the EGR valve regularly goes out on this vehicle. Would this be a good indication that this mave have gone bad in my engine?

 

So..... I went to AutoZone today and you were 100% correct. Cylinder number 2 is misfiring. Also the report says that My IAT (Intake Air Temp) Circuit is not working correctly. Also.... Catalyst efficiency low-bank 1. The PCM has determined that the warm up catalyst efficiency for bank 1 is below threshhold for the current engine operating conditions. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank).
Can you help me some more?

 

I am wondering if this is something that I can do myself or if it something that I should take to the shop to get done. Is it a good idea to do a trial and error at this point because they will need to be replaced anyways, or if I begin to replace my O2 sensor, then the plugs, then the IAT sensor, and it ends up being my catylitic convertor they will all break again.

 

Was not a 100% correct as a random misfire code is much more difficult to find root cause. Since you have a P0302 or cylinder 2 missfire then that just narrows it down all the better.Would not give a whole lot of worry to the IAT code at this point as is not going to cause any great problems. And no they will not just all break again. The missfire at #2 cylinder may have accelerated the demise of the cat converter but they are somewhat prone to going out early anyway. The converter is covered by emissions warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles so if you are still within those numbers then that will be a later problem as well. The first thing to deal with is the P0302 cylinder #2 missfire. It is the most important right now. Since your engine uses a coil on plug configuration it means that #2 cylinder has an ignition coil right on top of that cylinder and a spark plug wire that the will also provide spark to the #4 cylinder. Since you are not getting a #4 missfire as well then good chance that problem lies only in the #2 cylinder. A replacement of the spark plugs would be an excellent place to start, especially if they are old and worn out. Get some new spark plugs in there and see if the hesitation/bogging goes away. Then we can start to work on the other codes that are being output. Dealer will not likely replace the converter for free under warranty if you are also having some missfire problems as the new converter will fail as well in short order. Missfire first, other codes and fixes later.