Have a 2001 protege, and I'm having trouble removing the front rotor. I did remove the caliper, is there something else I need to remove or are they possibly just rusted on there?

 

just rust build up....

 

yea rusted prolly. either u can 1. get a hammer and hit it on the rotor that makes contact to the hub or prolyl the better one 2. buy 2 bolts that are 8mm x 1.25. buy one that is about 1.5- inches long. and just thread it into the hole on the rotor. it is universal so u can use it on all cars. you probably going to need it on ur rear brakes if u have drums. Best thing you can invest in and its only like 2 dollars for 2.

<edit> after you thread the bolts in, just use a socket and ratchet, i think its prolly 12mm and just screw the bolts in untill u can remove the rotor

 

It may be rust build up between the hub center and the hub itself too.
When you get them off, after you clean off the excess rust and before you reinstall them, wipe on some Anti-Seize. Use it sparingly though. That should help keep them from rusting together again for a long time.
I use it on the front of my rotors to keep the alloy wheels from getting to attached to the rotor face, and on the lug studs too. Use too much and it will spray itself around the wheel as you drive. Not a major problem, but a minor annoyance.

 

DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT put anti-seize on the wheel studs. Don't put ANYTHING on them. There is a reason why you don't want your lugs to come off easily... and I suggest virgin1 stop putting anti-seize on the studs. Wipe off the anti-seize and clean the threads with brake clean.

And yes I would not suggest putting anti-seize on the hub either. The rotor has to mesh with the hub. But i do suggest cleaning the hub to rotor contact with a angle grinder if u got one. if not just clean off the rust with either sandpaper, metal cleaning pad, or even a metal brush. If you put anti-seize between the rotor and hub, it will create a gap between the two. After a week or two the rotor gets wear from the braking and so does the pads. The rotor doesnt move around on the hub so it has kinda like a set wear pattern on the rotor. If you put anti-seize between the hub and rotor it might create a gap and the anti-seize will move and the rotor will move as well. You prolly will get a pulsating pedal or something. I dont know if it will happen, i am just guessing. But its up to you.

 

I have to completely disagree with your post. I have 25yrs expereince using Anti-Seize on all kinds of things, including rotors, hubs and wheel studs, the same "can" as a matter of fact, and have never ever had a problem. The trick is to spread it on in very thin layers.
Both the rotor and the wheel are held on by the pressure created torquing the wheels lugs to consistent factory spec.
Anti-Seize helps eliminate any galling that happens when metals, like or not, are under pressure against each other. i.e. Lug nuts and lug studs. It is also and excellent buffer between dissimilar metals so that galvanic action is reduced, usually to a point where it has no real world affect.
The lug nuts WILL NOT come loose. The rotor will not BE loose.

 

ok, well its up to you if you would like to put anti-seize on or not. i say not, but virgin is saying yes. anyone else would like to add into this debate? Although i have not worked on cars for 24 years, ive been working in the industry for over 7 years. Got ASE's and got my degree in automotive. Never in my entire time working or at school have i seen anyone put anti-seize on studs.

There is alot of debates on this subject of Anti-seize on studs. Alot of people say, they have used it and are ok. I'm sure if you used it, it would turn out ok as well... Although, i have never read or heard anyone saying to apply anti-seize to studs. Trainers never said it, manufactures, mechanics, master techs. There is a reason why no shops will put anti-seize on ur studs. Go to a dealership and have them balance ur tires and tell them to put anti-seize on your studs. Or just call them up and ask them if they could put on anti-seize for you, and you will pay for the labor and items. See the answer you will get and ask them why. I'm sure they would be able to clarify for you.

All in all, it's your car. You have both answers to the question. Good luck

 

I've noticed this debate on various websites.

The only reasonable argument against it, IMHO, is that torque specs are determined on dry, clean studs. Lube could cause you to over-torque lugs. Seems to me that using a little penetrating oil to clean up rusty studs isn't such a bad idea, if you don't overdo it and if you wipe off the excess.

It's probably subject to my Bushmills rule: Everything is better in moderation -- including moderation.