The rear brake drum is binding and getting very hot. I have replaced both side with new slaves and replaced the servo together with a new master cylinder. The brake pedel will start off in the normal place but after a short time using the brakes the pedel become higher and goes heard. Then the rear brakes start to over heat. Why is this I just don't know what to do next.
I have also replaced the front near side slaves as well as one was leaking. The master cylinder was leaking into the servo so I changed both of them. Now I back to the beginning again.
Can anyone help me with this dam car's brakes.

Thanks

 

2 things I can think of:

The bracket that actuates the handbrake inside the drum may not move freely. In my '98 Protege I had to put it into a vice and use a hammer to get it unstuck.

The brake hoses may have deteriorated internally. Basically it creates a blockage. Your push on the pedal is strong enough to make the fluid pass, but the return springs are to weak to do the same. Therefore the brakes bind.

 

Hi there.
Manythanks for your help. I have done some more work in these dam brakes but the problem is till their. I have changed all the flexible pipes and three copper pipes as I could not get the slaves off without the locking nut rounding off. I have been looking at the rear off side as this seems to be the one that is getting hot. I have looked at the hand brake system and it seems to be free with no sticking at all but I had to releace some fulid from the system to push the slaves back in. Then I can get the drum back on. These atr new slaves and are not sticking at all but they wont go back correctly. This is the same where I started from. Just 3k Baht latter and no improvment.
I just do not know where to go now or what to do. I have almost replace the hole system now.
Swifty

 

I was reading through your original post again and yes, you almost replaced everything but the servo. I assume servo is the same as 'brake booster", a can with a membrane that hooks up to the vacuum at the intake.
You said that brake fluid leaked into the booster. Maybe the booster got damaged so now it is unable to return after applying the brakes? I am setting this into a question, because I don't know. But I would try to check this out.
Do you have strong legs? If so you could disconnect the vacuum hose and drive slowly on a empty road (slightly uphill if possible). See if the symptoms persist. You need strong legs because you would drive with out brake assist.

I also think it is possible that a new part may be faulty. Maybe the wheel cylinder on the brake that get s hot. Did you use new springs inside the drums?

 

Hi again. Yes the servo unit is the same as a brake booster. I have replaced this as the old obe had lots and lots of fluid from the faulty master unit in it. I have now replaced the rear shoes and the return springs. I will let you know if the problem is getting on or have I fixed it??? lol.
If this does not work I will peplace the remaining front parts and that will then be a complete new system apart from one pipe from the back to the master unit. I have change the others as the locking nut could not be removed without it rounding off. Or it may find it's way to the edge of a cliff.

 

On another forum I learned something about changing out a master cylinder. In that case the master cylinder was mounted to the firewall so it was pointing up, not level. In that case it was necessary to bleed the master cylinder on the bench before mounting it in order to get all the air out.
For that person it was too late so he had to jack up the rear of the truck until the master cylinder was level and bleed the system again.
....just something to check.

 

Also it wont hurt to try and cycle the ABS system (if installed), best is on a dirt road so the wheels will really lock up and cycle the ABS module, could be something stuck in there holding the rears on.

 

Many thanks for that but that is not a problem on my pick-up. I have now changed all the parts at the rear end and still the problem with binding rear brakes. Just waht do I have to do get this dam car working without heating the brakes. The pedel will become harder and harder and will travel less. After they have cooled down again all is well again. WHY????????? I just don't know what to do next. But the cliff edge is getting very close now.

 

AHHHHHHHH, I misread then sorry. Does this still happen if you unhook the vacuum line for the booster? Did you clean out or replace the proportioning valve(s)?

 

Swifty: I once had that problem in a VW beetle. The mechanic had the brakes adjusted to tight and the slight friction caused enough heat to expand the fluid. Then the brakes were binding really bad. You had to adjust these brakes by hand. your brakes have automatic adjusters.
Then I had a similar problem when I first did the brakes on my '98 Protege. There is a lever sticking out of the backing plate and the handbrake cable sits in there. Inside the drum this lever is attached to a bracket that spreads the brake shoes when you apply the parking brake. This bracket also has a small ratcheting cam on it. This ratcheting cam is the automatic adjuster. The key is that all these parts have to move freely. The brake dust and the heat can make these parts stick. My problem was that the lever that goes through the backing plate was not rotating freely on the bracket. I had it loosened once but after a short time it was binding again. So I took it apart again and loosened it once more. I used penetrating oil and brake cleaner liberally. I moved it around until it had some play. Then I applied some anti-seize compound. (very little and none on the braking surfaces). Only then did my brakes return properly. I am referring to the shiny part above the blue mark.