'88 323 B6 advice needed for several repairs.
#1
'88 323 B6 advice needed for several repairs.
I've had my 323 hatchback for a bout a year, and I now need to get some work done on it; needs a full brake job (rotors and drums included), an oil leak somewhere in the area of the distributor that pools on top of the transmission, and would like to swap out my 4-speed transmission for a 5-speed.
I'm reluctant to start on the front rotors since I've read in manuals that these sit behind the hubs; has anyone attempted to do this themselves, and is there anything I should be aware of before I start this, or special tools I should have on hand?
Anyone else experienced the same oil leak? The whole area is so gunked up with oil that it's nearly impossible to determine where the leak is coming from.
Anyone done a swap from a 4-speed tranny to 5-speed? Is it as easy as swapping one for one, or are there any other parts that I should be looking for? Which 5-speed was used if anyone has done this?
Thanks for reading my post, and hope that someone in this forum can help out.
Thanks again.
Steve
I'm reluctant to start on the front rotors since I've read in manuals that these sit behind the hubs; has anyone attempted to do this themselves, and is there anything I should be aware of before I start this, or special tools I should have on hand?
Anyone else experienced the same oil leak? The whole area is so gunked up with oil that it's nearly impossible to determine where the leak is coming from.
Anyone done a swap from a 4-speed tranny to 5-speed? Is it as easy as swapping one for one, or are there any other parts that I should be looking for? Which 5-speed was used if anyone has done this?
Thanks for reading my post, and hope that someone in this forum can help out.
Thanks again.
Steve
#2
There's no need to replace the rotors and drums unless they are DEEPLY scored. The front pads are easily changed. The only special tool you need is something to push the piston back into the cylinder. Pay attention to the master brake fluid reservoir, you may have to remove some fluid as you push the pistons back in.
The rear shoes are harder to replace because you have to remove the nut that holds the drum in place. The nut is a one-use item. Once you remove the nut you can't re-use it. With a new nut you set the bearing drag and then dimple it into place so it can't come loose. The left and right nuts have different threads.
The oil leak is a common problem. The oil is blowing past the valve cover gasket and distributor o-ring. Replacing the distributor o-ring requires removing the distributor. It's not that complicated. You might have to move the top water pipe that covers the thermostat. Be sure to have the engine cranked to TDC before you remove the distributor and you'll need to set the timing after you put it all back together.
I have no experience messing with the transaxle.
The rear shoes are harder to replace because you have to remove the nut that holds the drum in place. The nut is a one-use item. Once you remove the nut you can't re-use it. With a new nut you set the bearing drag and then dimple it into place so it can't come loose. The left and right nuts have different threads.
The oil leak is a common problem. The oil is blowing past the valve cover gasket and distributor o-ring. Replacing the distributor o-ring requires removing the distributor. It's not that complicated. You might have to move the top water pipe that covers the thermostat. Be sure to have the engine cranked to TDC before you remove the distributor and you'll need to set the timing after you put it all back together.
I have no experience messing with the transaxle.
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mazdatree
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11-16-2008 09:37 PM