My stepfather has a 929, I don't directly recall its year, so 92 or 93, i think.
It's timing belt recently broke, and he sent it to a vo-tech shop for replacement. Upon returning home, we found it had developed a knock. It seems to me to be coming from the left bank.
Odd thing about this knocking is this: It does not start knocking until the engine has warmed a little, it then only knocks at below 1500 rpm.
The engine has fairly high mileage, but otherwise was in fine shape until the timing belt broke. Vo-tech instructor is rather dumb when it came to this car, so I wouldn't put it past him to have not done a good job, especially since he sent it out of his shop with a new problem (something no mechanic I've known would do without extensive explanation).
It's been suggested this could be a lack of lubrication due to sitting for many months, could it be that easy??
Am wondering what opinions anyone here might have.
Any help would be appreciated!!!
babyhuey assisted my stepfather in diagnosing the broken timing belt and by reassuring him it has a non-interference engine. Many thanks babyhuey!

 

Very welcome projexladen. Given that the belt was replaced at a vo-tech shop I bet that the belts are really tight. Try this. Make sure that the A/C compressor drive belt is good and snug. Loosen up the Power steering belt and the Alternator belt a little bit, not so much that they slip and squeal but just a little bit. See if that makes the hot engine knock noise quiet down.

 

At first what babyhuey says confused me! After a few moments of pondering i can see what you mean by loosening the belts...makes perfect sense!

 

Odds are that the votech instructor let one of his students do the job and if it is not precisely lined up the way it's supposed to be you'll have knocks and pings galore the more the car is driven that way. This is the reason i took mine there when my belt broke too. I learned the hard way when they say it needs replaced at 80,000 miles they weren't kidding. Mine broke on the way to the dealer at 83,000 I was less than 2 miles away when it went too, in the middle of rush hour traffic. Not fun. Mine took out the water pump and the idler pulley for the belt and it cost me over $1,000.00 to get it all fixed and replaced but it has run like a scalded dog again ever since.
I'd say the belt or idler pulley needs adjusted on this one and your problems should be over. I'd say since most of the work has already been done it wouldn't cost much at all to get it re-done correctly. The lubrication issue could also be partly caused by the belt not being installed properly. Interesting thing I learned the hard way too that is also a factor in the lubrication, this is a completely sealed motor and will not run at all if there is a hole in the block gaskets or other parts of the motor. Don't believe me take the Oil fill cap off of the car, start it and see how far you get before it dies on you. I made it all of 15 feet from the gas pump where i topped mine off with oil after just doing an oil change on mine before it died. I put the cap back on and fired right back up and ran perfectly again.

Also as is the case with any vehicle i have, any time i have a car/truck that has gone more than 100,000 miles i run Mobil 1 or other purely synthetic oil in it at the very least Castrol Syntech blend if I can't afford the Mobil 1.

good luck with it, let us know what you find out, others on here can benefit from it too.