Hi:

I have an engine code that won't clear. I've disconnected the battery, pressed the brake, and left the headlights on all night, it's still there in the morning. It's a #16 or 26. 2 long flashes and 6 short repeated.

#26 is supposed to be the charcoal canister/fueltank vacuum valve but that works fine (-100+ lbs).

#16 is a clogged erg which might be true because the head gasket was leaking and the manifold intake was full of crud, but I cleaned it and the valve. It can't be checked because the code won't clear. I don't start the car before I check it so it's not new each time. what's the deal?

also the driver side automatic shoulder strap isn't automatic, the motor doesn't make any noise and it stays in the far back position. is that a fuse? where can I find an online manual? there's one listed but it doesn't cover wiring, engine, trans, or codes, just body parts.

Bill

 

A code 26 shows to be a solenoid valve if it's fuel injected. If it is a carb system a code 26 is a purge system code. I would check all the solenoids. I have seen cases of a code being burnt into the ECU. It sounds like it's just a hard code though . Hard codes will not clear until the problem is fixed because as soon as you turn the key on it see's the fault.

 

what's being read? what/how does the sensor sense? I was told the solenoid controls the vacuum in the gas tank but that's hearsay (so far). does the sensor read the voltage to the solenoid? if so, what should it be?

 

Disconnect the ECU and and check the white/blue wire for 12 volts with the key on. Check the purge solenoid valve for 12 volts on the white/blue wire with key on. If there is not 12 volts then check the main relay for 12 volts white/blue. If there is power on all the above it is likely the ECU. There are 4 solenoids total. I would check them all. If it needs an ECU i would replace the purge valve too as it may be drawing excessive amperage and damaged the ECU.

The seat belt has a control unit under the seat. It could need a control unit, a micro switch in the door latch or a motor. It will require some tracing with a test light/ohm meter.

 

Thanks hixx. I got 9.8v. I can't find the main relay. Chilton's description of the main relay is nothing like mine. Mine's rectangular and theirs is poly-sided w/ maybe 2 layers. the manual says the main relay is 120a, but my main fuse is 80a. Does any of this sound familiar (other than the whining)?

 

I believe it's bolted to the ECU on a bracket on that one. It could be in the underhood fuse/relay box though. I can check tomorrow.

 

Yea, it's in the underhood fuse box. The main relay feeds a lot of systems so it handles a lot of current. It is not surprising that it is beefed up to handle it. Chilton sux on most electrical/electronic stuff really. You might need to ohm out that wire from the main relay to the ECU/purge valve. You are losing voltage somewhere obviously and i'm not sure a relay that controls so much would not have other issues since it controls so much. The relay is pretty cheap though and it is reasonable that it is the culprit however. You might try one and then go on the hunt for a bad connection if it does not fix it. Look for discoloration on the relay terminals. If one is overheating then you will likely have to dig it out and replace the connector terminal. I would assume the purge valve is drawing too many amps.

 

hixx, you da man! I'll dig it out in the morning. There's one on ebay for $15. Honda had cracked solder problems on their relays, maybe this is the same. I did a milage check, I'm getting 12.5 mpg

 

Yea, Honda had a serious problem with their main relay. Mazda not so much. I replace main relays on Honda's before they go bad generally. I give them 150k-200k miles tops. It is rare on a Mazda though,so i think you must have something drawing excessive amperage through it. Given the code you have at least it appears isolated to one of the solenoids. Much cheaper than a fuel pump drawing excessive amps. Good hunting!

 

the main relay is marked fuel relay, but it's the only one there that looks like the labeled ones on google pictures. it's copper windings look heated enough to turn brass color. the points look ok. I ordered a used one from ebay but it seems like if the problem was the main relay, it would trip codes on the other sensors too.

Is the ecu that little box w/ a bunch of wires under the drivers seat?