Air conditioning problems with 2001 Mazda 626
#1
Air conditioning problems with 2001 Mazda 626
I have a 2001 Mazda 626 that I bought in '03 with about 26k miles on it. It has the 2.0 4 cyl engine and, except for transmission troubles, has treated me pretty well over the years. This year, I am noticing a problem with the air conditioning. At idle, it doesn't get cold (blows warm air)...which is really a problem in rush hour traffic and start and stop traffic. If I get moving and get the engine idle up over 2k, it will get cold (I have to run it at that RPM for a few minutes, but eventually it will get cold).
I've had the freon checked and it is within normal pressures (it was actually too high before I had it checked).
Maybe this is related...but it also seems like the blower doesn't push as much air as it used to...almost like it has a small/partial blockage.
Any suggestions as to what to look for? Air compressor/clutch? Evaporator coils?
Thanks;
John
I've had the freon checked and it is within normal pressures (it was actually too high before I had it checked).
Maybe this is related...but it also seems like the blower doesn't push as much air as it used to...almost like it has a small/partial blockage.
Any suggestions as to what to look for? Air compressor/clutch? Evaporator coils?
Thanks;
John
#2
Check for drive belt tension and magnetic clutch slip before you start ripping apart the linkages and plumbing. Once the engine is warmed up, push the rpm. to about 1500 and steady, you should then hear the A/C fast cycling (pulsing on and off at about 15 second or so intervals). Make sure the A/C fan in the lower corner of the radiator turns freely and there are no obstructions between rotor and shroud and that the rad core is clean.
Sometimes those cable linkages can be the problem. I had a Camry whose A/C went sick like that and the dealer said the evap/condenser had to be replaced (750 bucks). I did a double check and found the cable link on the hot water valve to the cabin heat exchanger was not turning the hot water off; I reset the clamp on the cable jacket in 5 minutes flat and the A/C was perfect and stayed that way for years.
A while later I was in the shop at the dealers when a guy came in with the same problem; the mechanic was there and we did the same thing and again, problem solved. The issue here was the shop manual omitted to list checking the heat valve linkage setting before ripping the A/C system apart.
Anyway, your system is OK if warmed up engine at 1500 rpm. ,the cabin fan at max., air selector on recirc., temp. select at max. cold, and air directed to face ducts, check the outlet air temp. out of the driver's side center duct with a thermometer. If A/C is good, the temperature should be 15 to 20 Deg. C less than the ambient cabin temperature.
Sometimes those cable linkages can be the problem. I had a Camry whose A/C went sick like that and the dealer said the evap/condenser had to be replaced (750 bucks). I did a double check and found the cable link on the hot water valve to the cabin heat exchanger was not turning the hot water off; I reset the clamp on the cable jacket in 5 minutes flat and the A/C was perfect and stayed that way for years.
A while later I was in the shop at the dealers when a guy came in with the same problem; the mechanic was there and we did the same thing and again, problem solved. The issue here was the shop manual omitted to list checking the heat valve linkage setting before ripping the A/C system apart.
Anyway, your system is OK if warmed up engine at 1500 rpm. ,the cabin fan at max., air selector on recirc., temp. select at max. cold, and air directed to face ducts, check the outlet air temp. out of the driver's side center duct with a thermometer. If A/C is good, the temperature should be 15 to 20 Deg. C less than the ambient cabin temperature.
#3
It sounds like the expansion valve is sticking or the condensor fans are not coming on. Also check the outside of the condensor for bugs/etc built up restricting airflow. As far as the blower motor not putting out enough the evaporator could be freezing up if it is intermittent or if you have a pet that rides with you in the car eventually dog/cat hair will build up on the evap core from air recirculating.
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