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Am seeking help with this if anyone has a clue!!

The factory alarm on my 92 mazda 929 goes off whenever i unlock the driver side door. I then have to use the key in the passenger side door in order to silence the alarm. Both the alarm and the horn sound funny, too. It seems like the pitch is a lot higher than before. Whatever the problem is, it is affecting the cars ability to start as usual. I had to turn the key four times today before the car would crank, and I heard a clicking noise as I was turning the ignition. I've had the battery switched twice already because I was told that the battery was not strong enough for my car. Could the alternator have anything to do with the fact that my alarm is acting up?

 

The alarm is going off because the key cylinder switch is not being activated for drivers door. There is a small on/off switch attached to the backside of each lock cylinder. Might try pulling the inner door panel off and checking to see if it has either fallen off of the key cylinder or even been disconnected. Have seen them fall off in the past.
When engine would not crank over after four times of turning the key did you notice any click noises from the starter? Dash warning lights dimming when in start position or were they unchanged in brightness?

 

Babyhuey,

There are no changes in the illumination on the dashboard. I have relaced the battery twice in the past year and everything works fine for a while. Bought the last battery maybe six months ago but problems reoccured a week ago. The alarm did not go off and I had no problems starting the car. Do you think it has something to do with the battery or cables? I had the alternator and starter tested today and they are both working properly.

 

Corroded or loose cable ends could definitely cause a no engine crank condition. The first thing I check when I have a car that will not start and has a charged battery is to make sure that the 12 volt crank signal from the ignition switch is actually reaching the starter. In your case it would be the smaller diameter wire at the starter solenoid that is Black with a Red stripe. The large diameter wire should have 12 volts all of the time as it is directly connected to the positive battery cable end. Smaller Black w/ Red stripe wire comes from the ignition switch and should have 12 volts every time the key is cycled to the 'start' position. If you are not getting this 12 volt signal then we will need to be checking to see why it is not getting there. Possibilities there include ignition switch, starter cut relay near the air box, inhibitor switch on the transmission that will only let you crank engine in Part or Neutral, or a connector between ignition switch and starter.
If you are getting 12 volts at Black/Red wire at starter and other large diameter wire also has 12 volts then the starter would be at fault. 12 volts at Black/Red wire at starter and no or low volts at large diameter wire would be pointing to a connection problem between the battery and starter. Low or no volts at both wires would point to a discharged or faulty battery.
There is no good way to guess at what could be at fault without checking some of these things.