Idle fluctuation 94 626 AT
#1
Idle fluctuation 94 626 AT
I think I posted on a dead post earlier from uscavalryscout "HOAH" (I'm an Engineer 21B) and baby and a couple others.
or I'm to impatient.
I have the same problem on a 94 626 2.0L w/AT, I took apart the IAC and cleaned the springs and plastic piston looking thing and it made a difference.
I still have a high idle even when warmed up its around 1500rpm and will bounce to 1900rpm and back. It was around 2500 before I cleaned the IAC.
On the highway (at 75mph) it'll go from 3000rpm to 2600rpm then right back up to 3000, it does this pretty consistently at any speed and is more annoying than anything. But the high idle is killing the MPG (22mpg) and is a pain in town.
I'll disconnect the wire connector when I get home and see what happens.
I disconnected the wires from the IAC and nothing changed, that means The IAC is probably bad since I already cleaned it out once and got rid of some carbon and white scale. I have the other TB and IAC from the old engine I'll try that next after cleaning.
FYI I priced new IAC's at a few places they run from 499.99 (auto Zone) to nearly 800 (JC Whitney) or a whole TB assembly for 1300. 00.
BUMP all that
I'm going to the junk yard in town they have one 95mazda sitting in there hope it has a AT maybe they have a Probe.
or I'm to impatient.
I have the same problem on a 94 626 2.0L w/AT, I took apart the IAC and cleaned the springs and plastic piston looking thing and it made a difference.
I still have a high idle even when warmed up its around 1500rpm and will bounce to 1900rpm and back. It was around 2500 before I cleaned the IAC.
On the highway (at 75mph) it'll go from 3000rpm to 2600rpm then right back up to 3000, it does this pretty consistently at any speed and is more annoying than anything. But the high idle is killing the MPG (22mpg) and is a pain in town.
"then at a hot idle, disconnect the connector for the IAC valve. If it is working correctly then RPM should drop quite a bit and perhaps even stall. If there is no change in engine speed then valve is not operating and will probably need to be cleaned or replaced. The IAC valve is located on top of the throttle body."
I disconnected the wires from the IAC and nothing changed, that means The IAC is probably bad since I already cleaned it out once and got rid of some carbon and white scale. I have the other TB and IAC from the old engine I'll try that next after cleaning.
FYI I priced new IAC's at a few places they run from 499.99 (auto Zone) to nearly 800 (JC Whitney) or a whole TB assembly for 1300. 00.
BUMP all that
I'm going to the junk yard in town they have one 95mazda sitting in there hope it has a AT maybe they have a Probe.
#2
RE: Idle fluctuation 94 626 AT
Does sound an awful lot like a faulty IAC motor. How is the idle when first started cold? Is it more normal? You can check the IAC motor itself to make sure the coil windings are not open. Should measure around 8 ohms between the two wire terminals at the valve.
Auto zone is pretty high for new one. Dealer retail is only $419. Available at www.onlinemazdaparts.com for $335.64. OE part #FS02-20-660-9U. Don't forget a new gasket if needed FS01-13-W89.
If after a used one then 93-95 2.0l with A/T are all the same. Manual trans uses a different one though.
Auto zone is pretty high for new one. Dealer retail is only $419. Available at www.onlinemazdaparts.com for $335.64. OE part #FS02-20-660-9U. Don't forget a new gasket if needed FS01-13-W89.
If after a used one then 93-95 2.0l with A/T are all the same. Manual trans uses a different one though.
#3
RE: Idle fluctuation 94 626 AT
It starts just fine when cold, barely hit the key and zoom on the first start of the day.
The idle is high when cold but then it should be for a few minutes.
After driving to work and the subsequent starting after that it dosent want to go so well, it is rough and diesel like and sometimes stalls if I dont hit the gas, but then smooths out but runs high idle (1500-1600rpm).
I swapped out IAC's this afternoon after cleaning the spare one and again removing rough and gritty carbon then coating with a little WD40 we'll see how it acts later when the RTV sets on the TB gasket.
The idle is high when cold but then it should be for a few minutes.
After driving to work and the subsequent starting after that it dosent want to go so well, it is rough and diesel like and sometimes stalls if I dont hit the gas, but then smooths out but runs high idle (1500-1600rpm).
I swapped out IAC's this afternoon after cleaning the spare one and again removing rough and gritty carbon then coating with a little WD40 we'll see how it acts later when the RTV sets on the TB gasket.
#4
RE: Idle fluctuation 94 626 AT
Ok today it started fine and I didnt notice any fluctuation in rpm on the high way.
It did seem to bogg a little when pushing the gas almost like a wet or dirty air filter?
The Idle is still high around 1100rpm I'll check for vacuum leaks again I think my brake booster hose has a leak.
It did seem to bogg a little when pushing the gas almost like a wet or dirty air filter?
The Idle is still high around 1100rpm I'll check for vacuum leaks again I think my brake booster hose has a leak.
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