my mechanic is stumped, gave up, gave car back
#1
08-30-2009 | 10:16 AM
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my mechanic is stumped, gave up, gave car back
1994, 626, v6, 164K, automatic --
Scenario -- engine likely overheated (due to slow water leak) probably leading engine to cut off while driving, (19yo co-ed). Towed, low water level found, but distributor tested bad, was replaced with new one.
She drove repaired car 300 miles or when car over-heated once again after 300 miles (hadn't add/check water), pulled over, no problem with engine running, added water and drove on.
About a week later HOLD light flashes a mintue before engine cuts off at speed, won't restart, towed, distributor replaced by warranty.
Picked up fixed car, she got 10 minutes from garage, HOLD* light on dash starts flashing, 30 seconds later engine dies doing 60mph. Re-started after 5 minutes. repeated after a few miles. Had it Towed back to garage.
Car idles long period without problem at garage. No more over-heating at all, as indicated by guage & touch. Mechanic can't determine problem. Says if it was a Ford/Chevy he could diagnose, but Mazda is complicated wiring. He's experienced and honest -- has a good history w/ us. He Gives up.
Granddaughter drives off, no charge for service or tow, get 10 miles, HOLD light flashes 30 seconds or so, engine suddenly cuts off doing 60mph. Won't restart. 5 minutes later, starts instantly and runs another 10 minutes, and repeats scenario twice more.
*The HOLD light indicates trans locked out of OverDrive. Button is never touched!
*Another clue...while the alternator seems to be working, the battery goes from full charge to almost dead after 20 minutes driving. If the car didn't instantly fire, which it does, the starter gives up. 626 sitting in driveway needing battery charged.
I have not found the slow water leak. Hardly any more water is needed. It may have all gone out quickly somehow? My granddaughter uses the car at college and never checked the water and never noticed the heat rise. I assume it was always slow leaking. No outward sign of overheating on engine from the two times it over-heated.
Last problem before this was a few months ago when the access plug to the cam end blew out of the head and the mechanic replaced that. Had the car a year without other problems.
Any problem solving advice appreciated...
Scenario -- engine likely overheated (due to slow water leak) probably leading engine to cut off while driving, (19yo co-ed). Towed, low water level found, but distributor tested bad, was replaced with new one.
She drove repaired car 300 miles or when car over-heated once again after 300 miles (hadn't add/check water), pulled over, no problem with engine running, added water and drove on.
About a week later HOLD light flashes a mintue before engine cuts off at speed, won't restart, towed, distributor replaced by warranty.
Picked up fixed car, she got 10 minutes from garage, HOLD* light on dash starts flashing, 30 seconds later engine dies doing 60mph. Re-started after 5 minutes. repeated after a few miles. Had it Towed back to garage.
Car idles long period without problem at garage. No more over-heating at all, as indicated by guage & touch. Mechanic can't determine problem. Says if it was a Ford/Chevy he could diagnose, but Mazda is complicated wiring. He's experienced and honest -- has a good history w/ us. He Gives up.
Granddaughter drives off, no charge for service or tow, get 10 miles, HOLD light flashes 30 seconds or so, engine suddenly cuts off doing 60mph. Won't restart. 5 minutes later, starts instantly and runs another 10 minutes, and repeats scenario twice more.
*The HOLD light indicates trans locked out of OverDrive. Button is never touched!
*Another clue...while the alternator seems to be working, the battery goes from full charge to almost dead after 20 minutes driving. If the car didn't instantly fire, which it does, the starter gives up. 626 sitting in driveway needing battery charged.
I have not found the slow water leak. Hardly any more water is needed. It may have all gone out quickly somehow? My granddaughter uses the car at college and never checked the water and never noticed the heat rise. I assume it was always slow leaking. No outward sign of overheating on engine from the two times it over-heated.
Last problem before this was a few months ago when the access plug to the cam end blew out of the head and the mechanic replaced that. Had the car a year without other problems.
Any problem solving advice appreciated...
#2
08-30-2009 | 07:11 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,324
Pull the bolted on connector off of the altenator and check it closely for damage as they get hot and create a poor connection. Look under the drivers seat and disconnect the power steering control unit ( if equiped) as it shares an input to the PCM to vary power steering effort based on rpm and can interrupt spark/fuel. Very hard to diagnose.
#3
08-30-2009 | 08:46 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 466
Drive belt? If your alternator and water pump are driven from the same belt, and you have symptoms of misbehavior in both the cooling and electrical systems, you may have drive belt/ tensioner problems, or the alternator, water pump, or idler(s) may have a bearing problem causing slip/ overheating and malfunction of the accessories drive.
If that' s what it turns out to be, I suggest a change of mechanic while you're at it.
If that' s what it turns out to be, I suggest a change of mechanic while you're at it.
#5
08-31-2009 | 04:37 PM
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not the belt, tho that could do it all
the belt is OK, and it was not over-heating when it broke down after the first time. It did run low on water and heat a second time, but without stopping.
The initial or even the second over heat might have damaged parts for sure, and that is the best advice given so far. Some of it is over my head, but I'm taking it all to a new mechanic. Still hoping for silver bullet.
The initial or even the second over heat might have damaged parts for sure, and that is the best advice given so far. Some of it is over my head, but I'm taking it all to a new mechanic. Still hoping for silver bullet.
#6
09-26-2009 | 12:19 PM
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I'm giving up on this 626. It will crank and run for 10 miles, so I'm selling it that way for BO, or over to the junk yard for a quick $125 driven in. Not a dent, weak paint, but tires are new..what a waste. If I can find a mechanic who can diagnose the wiring system I might put a couple of hundred in it just to keep it on the road, and give it to some teenager to drive until it drops. Wish I had done that the first time it broke down. I would pay money not to be this discouraged.
As wisely advised on here: I did have a guy look at the alternator plug, but he didn't see anything wrong. That plug is at the V-6 block, very close to the exhaust manifold. If I find a cure, or if the person I give the car to does, I will report back the fix. thanks
As wisely advised on here: I did have a guy look at the alternator plug, but he didn't see anything wrong. That plug is at the V-6 block, very close to the exhaust manifold. If I find a cure, or if the person I give the car to does, I will report back the fix. thanks
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