I bought my 2000 Mazda 323f three weeks ago and have been really happy but today it seemed that my front offside brake was stuck on. The wheel was warm and I figured there is a problem with the caliper. However once it had cooled it has been fine and I can jam them on with no problems. I was assured the brakes had recently been done (though that could have just been pads and not a caliper overhaul). Is this an easy job to repair/replace with the ABS (do I have to get it done with a power bleed) and also am I right in thinking that the handbrake only operates the rear wheels because if not that could be the culprit. I think this might need an overhaul as well. Any suggestions would be welcome thank you.

 

If disk brakes don't release it is most likely that the sliders are sticking from dirt or rust. Not every mechanic pays attention to that.

So I would (I actually did) take the sliders out clean them and the passage hole in the caliper using sand paper, then I greased them with high temp grease and put it back together. Problem gone. The main cause was the bottom slider. There is a tube like rubber sleeve and behind the rubber there was rust, the rust pushed against the rubber making the slider stick.
You can check for a sticking silider by taking off the wheel and pushing/pulling the caliper in and out. It should move at least 1/2" and without much resistance.

This picture is of a rear disk but it shows the sliders so well.

 

That's very helpful, I will have a look and see. When it came to bleeding them, one reconnected, does the abs make any difference to the bleeding process?

 

Edthebad:

It is not necessary to disconnect any hydraulic lines. Therefore you should not need to bleed the brakes. Hang the caliper off the strut using wires. do not let the caliper dangle from the brake hose at any time!

In case you need to bleed them anyway: typically there is no difference in bleeding brakes with or without ABS. However if the ABS controller has been replaced or air got into it there are specific bleeding procedures. In my Ford Windstar it would require at least 25 pumps at the pedal per wheel. If that does not succeed it would have to be done using a computer at a shop.

Ed be good!

 

Thank you for all this. I will take the wheel off and have a good investigation. Of course it would happen at the most inconvenient time of the year of course. Happy Christmas!

 

So I have spent most of Christmas Eve refurbishing my front offside caliper and all seemed fine when I took it out for a 15 miles round trip but two miles from home I suddenly hear a squeaking noise from the front wheel. I'm sure it's the pads but I did pit copper grease on the back of them (they were pretty dry when I took them off) so I'm a bit frustrated as to what else it could be. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Also disks/rotors on there weren't fitted to the hubs but held on with the wheel nuts. Is that normal, I've never come across that in other cars I've had before?

 

Hi, Edthebad:

Well, you solved one problem.
The squeal comes from a high frequency vibration as the pads engage with the rotor. It does not affect the brake's efficiency.
First I would clean the rotor with a brake cleaner from the spray can. You need to take the wheel off but you can keep the caliper on. Clean the rotor on both sides. You may have gotten a grease spot on it when doing your earlier job.

If that does not help you may try lightly sanding the rotors in a circular pattern across the braking surfaces and lightly sanding the contact area of the pads.

You don't need a machine to do this but you want to create a swirling pattern on the rotor. If this too fails you may need new rotors and pads anyway.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the stud nuts. Use a crossing pattern to tighten them. 100 ftlbs. Re-torque the nuts after about 100 miles of driving.

The rotors are clamped in between the wheel and the hub. That is standard.

 

Thank you for replying so quickly. I will take the shell off and give it another good clean though I had the whole caliper in paraffin and gave it a thorough work over I didn't clean the disk so i'll do that. Should I grease the shims. I greased the runners and the back of the pads but I've seen elsewhere that some also grease the shims? Thanks again.

 

Some pads come with a backing that you should not grease at all. If the backing is uncoated metal grease should help, same for the shims. Just don't get anything on the rotor or the contact surface of the pads.

I bet the parafin is partially to blame for the noise.

 

Thanks for this. I suppose the problem is knowing what type the pads are. I'll tackle it again on Boxing Day - seems a bit sad to sort the car out on Christmas Day. I'm very grateful for your insight and advice. Best wishes for Christmas, Edward.