Can anyone help ? i have just replaced the timing belt on my mums 86 626 and although i can get it running with 24 volts it wont kick over with 12. Is the number one plug to the left/timing belt side or right/dizzy side? I have the left piston at top, the rotor button pointing to said lead, the camshaft cog pointing to arrow on "A" mark and ive been told it would not run if it was a valve any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

Was it running properly prior to work being done? Number 1 cyl is closest to the timing belt.. Both the timing marks on cam and crankshaft should point at 12 o'clock position at their respective timing marks on cover behind cam and pointer on the oil pump body. As far as the starting prob, it sounds as if the belt may be a tooth or two advanced.

 

24 volt instead of 12? I think that may be a problem unto itself. Even if your timing was WAY off the engine should at least still crank over with a decently charged 12 volt battery. Was I reading that right that are you actually needing to run the starter off of 24 volts to crank and will then run? If so how are you supplying 24 volts to do this? Am very curious.

 

Yes 24 Volts is correct. Using 2 batteries and jumper leads, you remove the negative lead from your car battery and connect a jumper lead which runs to the positive of the 2nd battery, you then run another lead from the negative on the 2nd battery and run it to your cars negative lead forming a 24 volt circuit. This is regularly used by mechanics to turn over engines after a replaced head gasket.
I Have now tried resetting the engine and timing belt a couple of times, advancing and retarding the belt but still cannot get it to run except occasionally getting it to fire with 24V. If anyone can help Cheers. Im ready too give up.

 

If it was running properly before you did the belt, it is kinda hard to guess here. The most common thing i can think of is over advanced timing. Did you mess with the distributor at all? Usually timing that is TOO advanced will make the engine crank very slow and make it seem as if the battery was almost dead. If you do not have a manual, it would be a good investment for a good manual with lots of pics. Make sure both timing marks are pointing at the 12 o'clock positions If you know everything is correct on the timing, you may have mechanical problems.

 

Yes the dizzy was replaced first as that is what we thought the problem was, but if the rotor button is pointing at number 1 lead and number 1 piston is top dead centre then im assuming it is correct, i have tried sliding the dizzy left and right on the adjuster and had someone turn the ignition to no avail, maybe it is not the timing ? Thanks for your input, maybe its a job for the mechanics or time for mum to scrap the damn thing.

 

The #1 piston being at top is not necessarily at the correct position for the distributor to point at the #1 lead. You could be at top dead center on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Try getting all lined up again with #1 at top and rotor pointing at #1 lug then pull distributor and rotate engine over one full turn untill the #1 piston again comes up to top. Reinstall distributor with rotor pointing at #1 lug again and give that a try. I personnaly have never had to crank an engine over with 24 volts. I would be more than a little concerned about this frying electronics in the computer and other areas. Guess would be ok for an older car but vehicle electronics on computer controlled systems are a little more delicate when it comes to voltage that high.