I recently bought a 86 b2000 that didn't run. I started with the basics. New battery and alternator, new starter, new fuel pump and filter, fuel and vacuum lines, spark plugs and wires, distributer cap and rotor, new gas tank guts. I got it to run for a few days but then it stopped running. It'll crank but won't start up. I decided to rebuild the carb and it still won't start. ( I have zero experience in carburetors but I took pics while disassembling it and put it back together the same way it looked in the pictures. ) I plan on replacing the camshaft and crankshaft sensors next and also the timing belt cover is melted exposing the timing belt. I plan on replacing those soon as well. I'm far from an expert mechanic but I'm no beginner so I know my way around a motor a decent amount but have never done major work to one. I need a little advice on what to check out next. Also the egr light is on if that'll have something to do with it not starting.

 

Two years ago and no one responded... did you figure it out Aaron?
I just bought my very first Mazda, a 1986 B2000 Extended cab & bed.
I hope you are still driving it and it's been FUN! Sarah

 

Aaron has likely solved his issue, but was too selfish to pot the response so others could learn.


Sarah - my 1988 Cab Plus B2200 has been my daily driver since 1994. I have two other small trucks with more hp and better AC, but the B2200 works well for me, is my favorite.

 

Howdy Cusser —

I just bought my first Mazda ever (I was really looking for an early 90s Benz wagon) and do NOT have a starter problem — she starts fine—, but do have a list of other things.. Most imperative, as I live in Washington State, is the WIPER BLADES.
Do you have a source for the "pin-style" replacement wiper blades? My hunt so far has me knowing the local auto parts cannot help, and looking on Ebay, they ALL say they fit my truck, but they don't LOOK it.

Next are the BRAKES as they feel like I need too much muscle to stop the thing—they must need something..
Then the IDLE runs high, and yesterday, it seemed to be getting higher and higher with every accelerator pedal slap I gave it.

I am new to this area, but DO have a "highly recommended" garage from a friend of a friend—so that is where I'll have them look at brakes & Idle, but any leads on some wipers or anything else you want to volunteer, would rock.


1986 B2000 Extended Cab & Bed (I think the bed is extra) 5spd Manual 98,000 Miles (I think that is false, but..)

Thanks!
Sarah in Washington

 

Whoa Sarah, that's the nicest looking B2000 I have seen in forever! That is definitely worthy of some continuing love. I spent some time a year ago looking for a nice B2000 and they were all in terrible shape, so I am jealous (actually, the last thing I need is another vehicle!).

Here's my advice on each question - of course, do what you think is right as that's half the fun of having an old vehicle! Also, I gave a few parts links, but don't just order anything from my links without double checking the fit for your truck.

Wiper blades - you probably don't need to buy blades with the pins if you still have them on the old blades. Just transfer the pins to the new blades. I just did this operation on my 82 RX-7. See the photos below - the blades I bought were RainX from AutoZone.





Carburetor - Before you get hit up with a bunch of great carb tuning advice, let me just say that this is an old truck and almost certainly needs the carb rebuilt. A good general rule of thumb is the following: If you buy an old a$$ vehicle with a carb, it needs to be rebuilt. You don't know me, but trust me when I say that a nice and shiny rebuilt carb with new gaskets, needle valves, and such will save you a lot of downstream hassle. If you mess with the idle and get it running well, that's great - but you are still going to want to rebuild that carb at some point soon and I would just dive in there to begin the process.

Here's a rebuild kit from Walker for $46:
https://www.partsgeek.com/k1vpl8y-ma...epair-kit.html

If you don't have experience rebuilding carbs (I make no assumptions about your skill level here!), you can definitely learn but be forewarned that it takes a bit of practice and patience. If you want to get a mechanic to do it, be forewarned that mechanics under 50 years old who know how to work on a carb and are willing to do it are becoming rare. That doesn't mean they don't exist, but definitely probe a bit before you hand if off to some young person that says they will figure it out.

A better alternative - in my opinion - to rebuilding your own carb is to buy one that is already rebuilt. This is more expensive, but it's also super fast. If you will pay a mechanic to rebuild the carb, it will likely end up costing just as much or more. You can get a rebuilt one for your B2000 from Guaranteed Carburetors for $230 (this assumes you send back the old carburetor - i.e., the "core"). If you go this route, you or any competent mechanic should be able to pull the old carb and replace it with the new one. If ding it yourself, make sure you use masking tape to number and label vacuum tubes and take photos of each incremental step as you go along - those photos will be your best friend if you start the job and then walk away for a week! You will not remember. Read that previous sentence twice.

My advice would be as follows: If this is supposed to be your daily driver and you can't afford to have it out of commission, just get an already rebuilt carb and slap it on = one afternoon of work. If it isn't your daily driver and you want to learn, pull the carb yourself and take a crack at the rebuild - worst case is that it doesn't go well and you just send the core in for a rebuilt one anyway.

Here's your B2000 carb rebuilt:
https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/MAZ65_p_401.html

Brakes - Your truck has front disc and rear drum brakes. Your truck doesn't have power assist on the brakes and, assuming you are used to driving modern vehicles, they will take getting used to - they are definitely going to require more you-power to actuate. This isn't to say that you don't need to have them checked - you do - but don't expect them to feel like a modern vehicle even if totally rebuilt.

The front brakes do more work and take a worse beating on most trucks because the weight of the engine is right on top of them. You should be able to find a good brake kit - drums/rotors, pads, springs and pins, caliper mounting hardware, etc. for $50-75/wheel in a kit format.

Here's a brake kit for your truck from Summit Racing (this is a bit on the pricey side at $305, so just a quick example)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...xoCaeQQAvD_BwE

My advice: From your question, it sounded like you would have the mechanic do this work. In addition to getting a report on the condition of the front rotors and pads and rear drums and pads, you should also ask them to your replace/bleed your brake fluid (whether or not you need any brake work). They should also take a look at the condition of the master cylinder, brake lines, front calipers and rear brake cylinders. It would not be surprising if a lot of this needs replacing, although that truck does appear to have been loved. That's my advice, but I would personally do all the work myself - brakes aren't that hard and they always charge an arm and a leg. But no shame in paying if you aren't experienced. If you do decide to take a crack at it, you can post pictures here and people can walk you through issues.

Coolant/Oil and Oil Filter: You didn't ask about these, but change all immediately. Just about everything that goes wrong with an old vehicle is (reasonably) fixable, except overheating. Overheating is the engine killer and old vehicles drip oil and loose coolant, so have all that looked over carefully and keep an eye on them. Get your oil changed now, do it again in 1,000 miles, and then every 5,000 with synthetic from here on out. Change the filter every-single-time. Flush and replace the coolant and do a reverse flush through the heater. If you plan to travel more than around town and close to home, check all the radiator hoses very carefully for damage and age - replace as necessary. Not expensive and easy to do while you are already flushing coolant.

Transmission and Rear Differential: Not as immediately imperative as the above, but also get those fluids changed.

 

88LBO has done a nice post above.

The factory carburetors are more complex than the lunar rover. If your local emission requirements allow, consider a genuine Redline Weber carburetor (but follow Internet instructions on sanding adapters perfectly flat, etc.).