I have a 1988 B2200 5-speed that won't start. I've gotten ideas from other posts and responses about this, but I've had no luck. Here's some information.
My son was driving the truck when it stalled out, and he called me when he couldn't restart it. I had him crank it with the accelerator to the floor to clear a flooded carburetor, with no luck. By the time I got to where he was (about 15 minutes), he had gotten it started and driven it around the corner off the busy road before it died again. We couldn't get it started a 2nd time. It cranks, but won't catch. Here's what I've done:
1) Sprayed starter fluid in the carburetor, figuring if it started and then died the problem was with the fuel system. Tried this several times, but it never started, so I figured it was electrical. This was bad, because I have almost no experience with electrical issues.
2) Since the ignition switch had been having some issues (e.g. not working in accessory mode) and after reading on this forum that those switches often go out with age, I went ahead and replaced the switch. Still no start.
3) I used a spark tester, and there's no spark getting to the plugs.
4) Checked the plug wire resistance according to the directions with my multi-meter, and all the wires were around the specified 10K ohms per foot of wire.
5) Checked the primary, secondary, and insulation resistance of the ignition coil according to the directions in my repair manual, and they all were in the right range. A friend told me about a coil he had that tested ok, but didn't have enough oomph to get him started, so I went ahead and replaced the coil too. Still nothing.
6) I figured that since my son was able to start the truck once after it died that the problem wasn't with the timing belt, but I took the cover off anyway, and the belt seems ok.
7) My multi-meter directions give a test for the ignition coil switching action. It says it shows whether or not "the negative terminal is getting switched on and off via the ignition module and camshaft/crankshaft position sensors." I did the test, checking cranking RPMs when connected to the negative terminal of the coil and to ground. The meter showed 0 RPMs, so apparently it's not getting switched on and off.
8) Even though I'd replaced them not too long ago as part of regular maintenance, I replaced the distributor cap and rotor.
9) Also cranked the engine with the distributor cap off, and the rotor was turning.
So that's where I am right now.
I saw a test suggested by Cusser, who has a lot of helpful posts on here, to check voltage at the positive ignition coil terminal when the switch is in the run position. I haven't done it because I wasn't sure where to hook up the other lead. To ground? (I told you I don't know much about electrical.)
Am I right in assuming that if the engine is cranking with no groans and not slowing down that everything between the battery, switch, and starter is ok?
I'm at a loss here, unless there's something wrong inside the distributor. I haven't found any information on how to check inside it or even how to get into it.
Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to give as complete info as possible. If anyone has ideas of what else I should do, I'd appreciate it.

 

Was wondering if you ever came up with a solution to your problem? I currently have a 1988 Mazda 323 1.6L engine that is having the identical issue. It was running great, then one day I started it to warm it up before going to work and when I came back it was dead. I started it, it ran for a few seconds and it died again. Now it will not restart. It cranks over just fine but never fires up. I've gone through all of the same steps you did with the same results. I think you were on to something in step 7 where you mentioned "My multi-meter directions give a test for the ignition coil switching action. It says it shows whether or not "the negative terminal is getting switched on and off via the ignition module and camshaft/crankshaft position sensors." I did the test, checking cranking RPMs when connected to the negative terminal of the coil and to ground. The meter showed 0 RPMs, so apparently it's not getting switched on and off"

My next step is to purchase and replace the entire distributor because trying to get the ignitor within the distributor is next to impossible. I really don't want to put a lot of money into this so I'm looking for that quick fix if possible.

Thanks,
Ed

 

1. Just because the engine cranks fine - that does NOT mean that the "run" circuit of the electrical part of the ignition switch is OK. Test that.

2. If above is operating correctly, then test the distributor and coil.