1993 b2600 4x4 oil pan removal
#1
1993 b2600 4x4 oil pan removal
Just bought this 93 2600i 4x4 5speed 155k miles body and running gear in great shape. Needs some major motor work and trying to trouble shoot. starts and idles great but loud knocking at increased idle and low oil pressure(light on). Nothing has come thru the block yet. Compression in 1 is 125 and 2-4 is 165. no oil leaks and exhaust is pretty clean except on start up smoking. The knocking is scary above idle like something will come apart sound like more than timeing chain or lifter noise. Antifreeze is clean, oil is dirty but only oil.
I drained the oil tonight and will magnet the oil pan drain tomorrow. The question is has anyone pulled the oil pan in frame on a 4x4? I would like to pull the pan and inspect the bottom half to trouble shoot before i pull the engine . If its only one hole problem and hasn't trashed the crank I would probably repair in frame. Let me know if you have any good ideas. If the crank is wasted I will either replace with a JDM or running takeout , its hard to find parts in alaska. Thanks for your consideration.
chris
I drained the oil tonight and will magnet the oil pan drain tomorrow. The question is has anyone pulled the oil pan in frame on a 4x4? I would like to pull the pan and inspect the bottom half to trouble shoot before i pull the engine . If its only one hole problem and hasn't trashed the crank I would probably repair in frame. Let me know if you have any good ideas. If the crank is wasted I will either replace with a JDM or running takeout , its hard to find parts in alaska. Thanks for your consideration.
chris
#2
Pulling the engine is pretty easy on those IMO. To do proper checks/repairs it is much better with the engine on a stand and pulling the engine has other benefits such as access to the rear main seal/clutch/front trans seal etc. You would probably have close to as much time doing it in the truck as pulling it plus if you replace the engine the time you spent on the oil pan would be wasted. If it smokes and knocks the odds are in favor of it needing a replacement. Just my 2 cents.
#3
thanks Hixx, I think you are on the right track. I have done alot of marine diesel stuff and its always harder getting an engine out of a boat and easier doing in frame work on big blocks. My next question will be if I need to do a swap I see the diesels available on line (JDM) and wonder if its worth the wrestling match to get one adapted. thanks for your input.
chris
chris
#4
cperry,
I had a friend of mine convert his 94 GMC Sierra from(5.7 litre) gas to (6.5 litre) turbo diesel and after many nights of wrenching and headaches he finally got it done, not to mention the loads of money he spent. So if your ready to replace fuel system,wiring harness, engine, trans, ecu, and rework the a/c system and I'm sure other things might pop up it could be a nightmare. If it where me I just swap the engine out and call it a day.
I had a friend of mine convert his 94 GMC Sierra from(5.7 litre) gas to (6.5 litre) turbo diesel and after many nights of wrenching and headaches he finally got it done, not to mention the loads of money he spent. So if your ready to replace fuel system,wiring harness, engine, trans, ecu, and rework the a/c system and I'm sure other things might pop up it could be a nightmare. If it where me I just swap the engine out and call it a day.
#5
I did pull the engine and got the pan off today. The middle cam bearing got spit out and munched then spun the #1 rod bearing. The crank is a little chewed up at #1 and probably should be ground. not sure how the camshaft or top end is. The compression was 165 in 3 hole and 125 in #1. I'm thinking the best thing to do is get a JDM and wondering about the difference between the 2.5L and the 2.6. did the 2.5 have any better history? Sounds like the 2.5 would fit right in. where is the best place to get a JDM if there is one?
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Dave P
Mazda BT 50 & Pickup Trucks
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05-27-2008 11:58 AM