We have 2 B2200 we use for work hauling induction motors to and from the repair shop to the clients at factories.
These trucks have lasted a lifetime and have been rebuilt at least 2 to 3 times each. This last time the mechanic rebuilt the engines, neither worked right, oil leaks aside, truck 1 (1991) would be very hard to start, like not starting until depleting the battery. Push started would fire right up. It got so bad trying to start it up that it already burned up 2 starters (thanks O'Reilly for lifetime warranty). I have the 3rd new starter waiting to install but, want to figure out why it is not working. Truck 2 (1989) was working right but the mechanic did not tighten one of the camshaft caps and it snapped it, new camshaft dropped in and was apparently working, however when we were gonna use it it started doing the same thing not wanting to start, so we parked both. I want to at least repair one.
I have checked timing on both and it is correct, markings on the pulley and camshaft sprocket, however, on one of them the mechanical timing i.e. distributor, is al the way to one end, rather than say, in the middle of the slot, as if it skipped a tooth but I found it to be correct. Might the pulley/gear on the crankshaft be misaligned or rotated or something?
The engine, to me, I would describe as if it was over torqued too tight, and the battery/starter is having a hard time turning the engine over, it sounds like a low voltage battery, but when I put the battery it in any other car/truck it would fire right up, its just these 2 B2200. It even fires a 67 C10 V8 like its nothing, even needing to crank a lot to fill the fuel bowls due to the mechanical pump, no issues whatsoever.
Also, I have checked the cabling, i.e. the wiring from the key, 1 has the original and is working, I even took it apart and cleaned it, the other has a generic AutoZone key/ignition, so there is no issue here.
I put in new cabling from battery + to starter, battery - to chassis and to engine block/starter and block/starter to chassis ground. This seemed to help ALOT at the beginning for around a month, but it slowly started to seem like a low voltage battery again until it would no longer start on its own.
Regarding the alternators truck 1 (1991) gives 15.9v which to me seems to high, truck 2 (1989) puts out 14.2v, perhaps a bit too low. Is there any way I can better check them?
Regarding the engine, many of the systems have been somewhat eliminated, i.e. vacuum, tubing, the 3 hoses from the air clear box, much of these systems have been eliminated, but I don't know who or how it was done so there are a lot of plugged vacuum ports all around which also does not help

These are the issues I have with them so far and what has been done to them, I am mechanically inclined and can and am willing to do all work myself as well have the tools to do it. Looking for additional help on figuring out what is wrong with the trucks. Tired of trusting mechanics to do a decent job, needless to say will not be taking any more cars to him.

 

Likely the distributor with the bolt at the end of the slot was "stabbed"/installed one tooth off. The distributor shaft rotates as it gets pushed down, so must be started a little off. However, if its timing is able to be set OK, maybe leave it alone.

With engine running, typical voltage across the battery is 13.5 to 14.5 volts. 15.9 volts is high.

My own 1988 B2200 is on its factory starter at 237K miles.

 

Thanks on the note of the distributor, will be checking that, regarding the trucks, believe it or not we have hauled industrial induction motors weighing1.5tons on that little thing. Trust me when I say it has had a rough life, REALLY rough, hence the 3 engine rebuilds. But they won't quit, testament to good ol' Japanese engineering.
I was going over the battery, and it has 330A, while the Haynes service manual calls for around 650A, while I get it is lower amperage that called for, I am baffled as to how that battery can start a 67 v8 Chevy, immediately swap it over to the Mazda and it wont start it, i.e. sounds like it was out of juice. This is what would seem like the biggest issue. Might it be electrical? And if so what should I check?

 

THIS is the perfect time to try a jump start from a running vehicle !!!


[QUOTE=ERA_Evil;208116]I was going over the battery, and it has 330A, while the Haynes service manual calls for around 650A/QUOTE]

330 CCA is low.

 

I was actually thinking, that the symptom of feeling like low charged battery, could it be due to the engine rebuilds?
I mean, the head has been resurfaced more than once, I don't know how much was removed, but that removal of material will cause the compression to be slightly higher. Could this marginally higher compression in conjunction with a low amperage battery be enough cause the issue?
I cranked it over without spark plugs i.e. no compression, and it spins freely no issues, y even rotated 360 with a screwdriver on the starter hole, on the flywheel teeth to inspect them, no issue rotating.
I did once connect the 2 batteries in parallel, to simulate jumping from another car, and boy did it work like a charm, but 1 battery alone couldn't start the truck. I don't know if it is enough but I am leaning towards this higher compression theory and needing a higher amperage battery.

(these tests I did were on truck 1, 1991)

 

You need a decent battery, you proved that with above test. Two batteries in parallel will provide same 12 volts but more amps.

I use Group 24 from Walmart (terminals are reversed from Group 24F, pay attention there); manufactured by Johnson Controls/Clarios like 85% of the batteries in USA.

 

Interestingly enough I got a better battery borrowed (trying to diagnose before throwing money at it), but I also changed the cables from the battery, new cable from neg to engine ground, to chassis ground and motor to chassis ground, as well as new positive cable from battery to starter, did not use the old/oem cables. Once I did this, the truck cranks the way it should, and more interestingly, it sound just as healthy with the battery with 600+amps and the 330 amps that it has, I cannot hear any difference between the two. It now starts and runs a lot better. I will buy the correct battery, as stated, trying to diagnose before I throw more money at it

Issue that is now happening is after it has been running say 40min to an hour, it suddenly shuts off. I look at the window of the carb bowl and it is empty. If I crank like a second or less, not allowing to turn on, several times, I can see the filter filling up with gasoline, but it seems it does not make its way to the bowl. After several cranks this way it will eventually fill the fuel bowl and run for like 10 to 15min, until it will again run out of fuel in the bowl and shut off.
I have the question, since it is a mechanical fuel pump, can the mechanical fuel pump work intermittently? I was under the impressions it would either work or wouldn't, since if the diaphragm was broken it would simply not work. I get an electric pump might fail intermittently, say when hot. I may also suspect a clogged line

 

Next time this stops pumping gas to the float bowl, immediately pull over and remove gas cap, see if air rushes in, might have a gas tank venting issue (I had such happen on my 1970 VW back in 1984, was a clogged vent "tee"). Or temporarily run with gas cap loose to see if issue disappears.

 

Interesting, I never thought of that. Will check out and reply back with findings

 

I didn't notice if you posted that the trucks have the factory carburetors on them......or are they fuel injected? If there are vacuum hoses disconnected, or plugged, then the factory carb is not working properly. Do you live in an area where there is emission testing/certification done in order to tag the trucks? If not, do yourself a huge favor and swap the factory carbs out to a true (Real) Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor from Redline Carburetors.