1988 Mazda B2200
LX extended cab
Manual
Factory original stuff

The truck has smelled like gas for the past year, but everything under the hood is cleaned up and the fill tube and vapor tubes are good. Finally saw some gas on the cut valve while peaking from underneath this weekend. So I am planning on dropping the tank the next time it is near empty (the 88 has the tank with drain plug for final drainage).

In anticipation of dropping the tank, I started looking online for factory fuel cut and check valves without much luck. Before getting it pulled apart, I would like to know my options if either is needed (hopefully it’s just a leaking fuel line on top of the tank). Does anyone know if those can still be purchased and, if no, whether there are suitable substitutes out there?

Thanks in advance!

 

First of all, do yourself a favor, and don't drop the tank! Lift the bed instead!

Now, you don't need to lift the bed completely off. Cusser uses a method where he removes the passenger side bed bolts, and 1/2 way loosens the driver's side bed bolts, and then jacks the bed up on the passenger side and supports it with an ideal sized 2" x 4" to ensure that it doesn't fall while you have your arms under the bed!

You will need to unbolt the fuel fill hose and the overflow hose at the gas door on the bed........along with the tail light wiring on the passenger side, I think.

Speaking of the over fill hose......this is probably where your getting the leaking and fuel smell......especially if it is noticeable when the gas tank is full, to 3/4 full.......it is common for them to crack where it slides over the fuel tank fitting.....it is about a 3/4" in diameter hose.

I'll load a few pics of when I had to replace one, shortly. Let us know what you find out!

 

I remove the bed if I need to work underneath of it......but I have my own engine hoist also!

It's dirty under there!









The over fill hose (if that's what it's called) is the smaller hose next to the large fuel filler hose.....



Here it is removed.....



And the crack in the hose......that is hard to see while it is installed.

 

Thanks MeB2000 - yes, that overfill tube was bad when I first got the truck, but I replaced it and fixed that issue. I think we are good there - will recheck and confirm.

why do you guys prefer the bed lifting route over dropping the tank? Just curious - it’s actually an appealing idea because that the only place on the truck with a hint of rust is in the bed. There are two holes - one decent sized one near the rear passenger side mounting bolts and one near the front drivers side mounting bolt. Ironically, both were caused by a bed liner. I could have built a raised bed with the compost under there. Anyway, pulling that bed and fixing those spots has been a possible project I have been eying. But why is it easier - what’s tricky about dropping the tank on the B2200?

thanks!

 

Cusser method, attached as PDF file.

 

Most of the time the gas tank bolts/nuts are rusty and hard to get to, there is not much room to get to the hoses to disconnect them with the bed in place, sometimes the plastic connectors that some of the hoses slip over will break when trying to lower the tank, and so on. But give it a try if you think it might be easier for you, to lower the tank instead......I just prefer to not to try and remove all of the gas tank hoses and wiring, with the bed in place. I'm a bit older now, so I think it is easier for me to remove or lift the bed.

I had to replace all of my rusted out metal brake lines on my 2002 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab LWB truck a couple of years ago......GM had/has an issue with the brake lines on their trucks rusting prematurely for a 10 year span or so......I decided to "tilt" the bed like Cusser does on the B-trucks, so I could thread those long rear brake lines in easier.....worked like a champ! I was done way quicker in the long run! I used the Dorman Stainless Steel lines kit, so it's good from now on!