Mazda BT 50 & Pickup Trucks While Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50

Spare gearbox

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Old 06-12-2021 | 06:51 AM
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Default Spare gearbox

I have a 1990 B2200 with 5spd manual 2wd. It’s got some synchronizer issues but it’s still drivable. It’s mostly an issue when trying to downshift into 2nd. Eventually I’d like to rebuild but don’t want the extended down time.

Im looking for a spare gearbox that I can rebuild. What span of years can I get a spare gearbox from? Is it 87-93?
 
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Old 06-12-2021 | 08:39 AM
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I "believe" it would be 1986-1993 B2000 or B2200.

I thought some folks have used a different Mazda transmission, maybe from a Miata, wait for confirmation and more information .......
 
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Old 06-12-2021 | 09:22 AM
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Cool thanks.

There may be one in a local yard nearby. My son has the truck now so I can’t look to see, but what is the minimum for putting the gearbox? Pull shifter, Remove driveshaft, remove crossmember, remove 4 bolts to bell housing? Is that about it?

What size sockets and wrenches do I need to have on hand for sure? I’d check my if the truck were in my possession.
 
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Old 06-12-2021 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 90-B2200
Cool thanks.

There may be one in a local yard nearby. My son has the truck now so I can’t look to see, but what is the minimum for putting the gearbox? Pull shifter, Remove driveshaft, remove crossmember, remove 4 bolts to bell housing? Is that about it?

What size sockets and wrenches do I need to have on hand for sure? I’d check my if the truck were in my possession.
I'm pretty sure that only MeB2000 will know the answers to all your questions.

There might be another... Not sure.
 
  #5  
Old 06-13-2021 | 08:28 AM
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I've not pulled my own B-truck gearbox so cannot provide "personal experience" help here.

I copied and saved the following (because I would do a clutch job myself if needed):

Transmission removal

To drop the tranny:

[*]Drain the fluid, remove the shifter, and remove battery.

[*]Disconnect the speedometer cable and sensors/switches

[*]Remove starter and clutch slave

[*]Remove drive shaft

[*]Remove transmission bolts holding bellhousing to the engine

[*]Remove rear transmission mount nuts

[*]Push up on the rear of the transmission and then slide it back

[*]Let the bell housing down, slide it forward and let the tail down

[*]Pull it out from under the truck.

[*]Unbolt clutch
[*]Unbolt flywheel
 
  #6  
Old 06-13-2021 | 01:01 PM
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I got one this morning. Have it in the garage now. It was a bit of work getting to upper bell housing bolts. And that exhaust bracket that bolts to the bell housing on the drivers side was a pita. But I won eventually. Here’s what I got today.

5spd trans $160

Complete two piece drive shaft good carrier and ujoints $45

Reman starter nearly new. $18
 
  #7  
Old 06-13-2021 | 02:05 PM
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From: North Central Florida
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That was a pretty good haul at the JY today!

I'm sure you know now that there are about six 17mm headed bolts plus a few 14mm headed bolts that connect the trans to the engine, and one of those 17mm bolts has a 19mm nut on it as well. Yes the exhaust bracket can be tough, especially in the JY! There are three 14mm starter bolts, and sometimes you have to remove the lower engine-to-trans brackets to help on removal.......I always pull the shifter handle also......way easier to slide the trans out from under the truck without a shifter hanging you up!
 
  #8  
Old 06-14-2021 | 09:14 PM
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I went back today and nabbed the rear end because when we got our B2200 the rear housing had corrosion enough to leak gear oil out. When I first drained it was almost empty. I fixed the leak with a metal patch and a combination of HP hylomar and standard RTV sealants. It's holding so far but that rear still has excessive pinion lash (like one inch the pinion moves). Probably worn from being run low on oil. The original rear is still in the truck and still working fine though. But who knows how long it might last? No worries because I picked up the spare rear today.

This rear I got today cost me $160 complete drum to drum. The parking brake cables are complete and in good working order, brakes and drums are good, brake lines appear to have been replaced not too long ago and the pinion nut area looks totally clean like sombody did work in there. Or, do they all look that clean after 30 years? The only thing wrong with the entire assembly is one broken wheel stud.

I also took the AC switch. This is the same truck I took the trans and driveshaft from on Sunday. It was fairly complete and missing only the AC compressor as far as I can tell.

Here's the poor soul the parts came from. The body was pretty banged up like somebody romped it. Also are pics of the rear and how clean the pinion nut area is. Does this clean pinion nut area indicate work had been done on this rear? The pinion lash on this rear is minimal (really good like 1/8 to 1/4"). The odometer has 220k miles on it.






 

Last edited by 90-B2200; 06-15-2021 at 06:10 AM.
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