Recently, I took the weber off my B series. To over look it and see if there are any issues. My reasoning for this, was an over filling in the bowls of the carburertor after a drive. The fuel is not boiling at all, nor is the carburetor hot anymore. Upon inspection of the carburetor it is completly fine, which leads me down to the fuel lines, regulator, and gauge to check. However my main issue at the moment is this. I have a I think a genuine Weber 32/36 DGAV. However upon inspection, it does not look like a proper weber at all inside. Perhaps, redline has changed a few things but that begs the question why would they send a rebuild kit with a diagram of an older carburetor, that is no longer similar to the one I have on my desk. Maybe the parts, guy ordered the wrong part. However I can eliminate that as well. Looking on pierce manifolds extensive list of weber parts and diagrams. There is the same one, as the same exact one I have in my hand. Is there anyway to properly check if it is a so called real weber. If my memory serves me correctly, Cusser stated on a thread once about seeing the Weber logo stamped in many places. Where weber is stamped on mine, is on the carburetor body, and carb cover. It also says WEBER by LCN, MADE IN SPAIN. On the side of the carburetor it says, 32/36 DGAV. Next to that it states 10c. I am at a complete loss here.- I would also like to add that in the rebuild kit, I had gotten had most of the correct parts in mainly gaskets. It also had this what I pressume is a needle and seat with a vacumm cap, but Im not to sure myself. Any help is appreciated. Also sorry for the lack of knowledge, I have only touched Holley 2 and 4 barrels before this one. Below attached is my Weber and the Diagrams, as well as the needle seat (I think).

 

I installed a genuine Weber 32/36 DGEV in early 2005, but I've never had it apart, so cannot help. Your DGAV is a manual choke model and the DGEV is electric choke, as I understand things.

However, I do have a rebuild gasket kit, just in case. I used my replacement adapter gaskets and Permatex Aviation when I sanded my adapters flat a few years ago. My carburetor rebuild history has been limited to carbs on old VWs; and the Weber 40DCNF on my 1971 VW with 1835cc has never been off its intake manifold (installed 1976).

 

Well, thank you anyway cusser. Yeah from my understanding I have DGAV carburetor, but it has an electric choke which would make it a DGEV, but the body states otherwise. So that raises some questions.

Also while, I have the carburetor off. I will be sanding down the plates to be flat and permatex them. Which I did not do either when first installing the carburetor well over a year now.

 

Normally I tend to let other member respond in some threads regarding older Mazdaa...but...

Your carburetor is far from being ready to re-assemble. It needs some serious cleaning possible soaking.
As for sanding the which I hope you meant the throttle plat and not the main body to top plate? Doing so can cause you a world of problems. And never use sealers anywhere near a carburetor with only a few rare exceptions i.e. base plate to intake manifold and that is only in a desperate pinch to seal a carburetor to intake manifold until either the intake or base plate can be surfaced.

As for the LCN line... WEBER went through several transition over the decades and sold off finally at one point. LCN does use original and other re-engineered equipment to produce original quality WEBER carburetors. The tooling and marking from the original WEBER are not always adhered to with LCN so it is easy to have seen a DGAV marking but a completed unit being a DGEV.

WEBER is not the only carburetor company that had several ownership changes over the decades.
CARTER, HOLLEY and even EDLEBROCK are some other that *changed ownership and right to manufacture original carburetors.

* I lived through them and it was a PIA for my shops!!!

 

Ahh ok, honestly its fairly dirty but not the worse Ive seen/cleaned and put back together. However yeah, Ill give it a deepclean and then put it backtogether.

What I mean by sanding, Im not sanding my carburetor. That would be a horrible idea. I'm talking about sanding down the adapter plate thats goes to the manifold, to make it flush and straight. Same with the sealent.

Also good to know.

 

As a distributor once for Holley & Holley/ Webber I would see every condition of carburetors you can imagine. What many do not grasp is that aluminum corrodes is small places that cant be easily seen. This corrosion changes not only the flow rates of fuels but air. The 2 biggest problems with not completely cleaning a carburetor for a rebuild is amateur jetting and emulsion tube changes and not understanding how the idle circuit works.
The thing I truly came to dislike hearing from customers returning the infamous 0-1850 Holly was that it was defective because it had an internal vacuum leak. LOL To which there is no such thing!
Regarding Webbers it was DIY and unexperienced user of the Webber DCOE. I think many purchased them because it was the "coolest" looking of all the Webbers and they are though a quick 4 bolts and away they go.
IMHO the DCOE was for advanced users of less performance line of Weber's to be a learning curve before attempting the challenge of a DCOE. Now compound that with a JR. user attempting to dial in and adjust 4 of them on a small block chevy.


Your carburetor is truly very dirty inside and out but I can see that is not beyond use if cleaned well. The first sign that you did a good clean and rebuild is if when you re-install it the engine fires and at least tries to idle fairly well on the first try.

 

Yes......if you didn't wet sand the adapter plates to eliminate the cast-in warpage, then do so. You typically only need to wet sand the surfaces (with 400 grit) where the 2 plates bolt together.......this is typically where there could be some vacuum leakage.

Use the Aviation Permatex gasket cement on all of the adapter plate gaskets......and on the carb-to-adapter plate gasket(s).

When cleaning up the carb gasket surfaces, make sure you don't damage the cast-in sealing "line" so it can still do it's job in sealing the carb up when mated together, by embedding the casting "line" into the paper gaskets as it should. Use Gasket Remover spray and a brass wire brush with light pressure until all of the old gasket is removed.

 

My stepson and I previously had chased flooding issues with our genuine Weber 32/36.

we chased our tails for a while until we discovered it was the original composite float that was bad. We replaced it with a brass float from Pegasus and it’s been perfect ever since.

Here’s a link to the brass float if you want to get one. Also, below that is a link to a YouTube video. I did showing how the original float was faulty.

For some reason the Pegasus link won’t paste. Google Weber 32/36 brass float and you’ll find it.