Mazda BT 50 & Pickup Trucks While Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50

Weber conversion

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  #1  
Old 04-25-2021 | 01:12 AM
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I know this might be a stupid question but I have recently bought a 88 b2200 ran great till here recently I am having trouble keeping it running it randomly dies going down the road like is is loosing spark or fuel idk what else to do I’ve bought a new carb fuel pump fuel filter and lines from the firewall up dropped the tank it was spotless I haven checked to see if it still has the ecu but if it does I was wondering if the ecu could be making it cut off randomly bc of Weber conversion does the ecu have to be deleted when doing a Weber conversion (throwing to much or not enough fuel to carb) I have also bought new coil everything I’ve done has helped it significantly but hasn’t fixed the problem I’ve also converted it to electric fuel pump and regulator
 

Last edited by Charlie Wayne; 04-25-2021 at 01:15 AM.
  #2  
Old 04-25-2021 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie Wayne
I have recently bought a 88 b2200 ran great till here recently I am having trouble keeping it running it randomly dies going down the road like is is loosing spark or fuel idk what else to do
Here's what I'd like you to test: the electrical part of the ignition switch. Because I had the same symptoms on my 1988 B2200 back in the mid 1990s. I'd be driving at 50 mph and suddenly there was a stall and no electrical. It took me a week to figure this out; engine would always crank, but the "Run" circuit is separate from the "Start" circuit.

When your truck dies, leave key in "run" position and pull over leaving in neutral, and check for positive voltage at the coil positive terminal.

Another question: do other things like the radio go off when this happens??


 
  #3  
Old 04-25-2021 | 10:20 AM
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^What Cusser said. After 30 years, mine did the same. I replaced the ignition switch, and all is running well again.
 
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Old 04-27-2021 | 08:49 AM
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[QUOTE=Cusser;194036]Here's what I'd like you to test: the electrical part of the ignition switch. Because I had the same symptoms on my 1988 B2200 back in the mid 1990s. I'd be driving at 50 mph and suddenly there was a stall and no electrical. It took me a week to figure this out; engine would always crank, but the "Run" circuit is separate from the "Start" circuit.

When your truck dies, leave key in "run" position and pull over leaving in neutral, and check for positive voltage at the coil positive terminal.

Another question: do other things like the radio go off when this happens??
[/QUOTE no my radio stays on everything in the truck stays on just cuts off motor randomly going down the road or sitting still I pulled the distributer cap off a couple days ago and it looked corroded so I scrapped and sanded the points and the button it’s only done it one time since then I’ve been driving it for two days now hasn’t done it again yet so I’m gonna go get some new plugs distributer cap and button haven’t had a chance to check plugs yet though can’t find my plug socket but I have notice when it done it after converting to electric fuel pump I have the positive wire running to my coil and it runs my fuel pump for like half a second when the truck cuts off and then stops running after dieng while driving
 

Last edited by Charlie Wayne; 04-27-2021 at 08:52 AM.
  #5  
Old 04-27-2021 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie Wayne
distributer cap off a couple days ago and it looked corroded so I scrapped and sanded the points and the button it’s only done it one time since then I’ve been driving it for two days now hasn’t done it again yet
ALWAYS fix first what you KNOW is bad. In your instance: distributor cap. Do you mean distributor cap contacts ad center button? Or are you outside USA with a cotact points type of distributor??
 
  #6  
Old 04-27-2021 | 07:01 PM
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Its not leaking oil from the distributor is it? Bad inner dist seal can foul the pickup and make it fail.
 
  #7  
Old 04-27-2021 | 07:23 PM
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Not to hijack this thread but while we're on ignition talk, how much amperage draw is normal for the positive lead at the coil. I know amperage can be higher running through the ignition switch since it feeds many things, but what is required at the coil + terminal?
 
  #8  
Old 04-28-2021 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Cusser
ALWAYS fix first what you KNOW is bad. In your instance: distributor cap. Do you mean distributor cap contacts ad center button? Or are you outside USA with a cotact points type of distributor??
yes I meant contacts and center button my bad lol so I decided to run my ac yesterday and it has started doing it again the ac makes my truck run at a very low Rpm and have it at a 1200 idle so I don’t run it unless I’m desperate was doing till I turned ac on I haven’t had time to check the distributer cap again yet but going to soon and I’m going to test my coil like you said now that it is doing it again
 
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