Alright, since the temperatures are dropping in good old Washington, and raining is coming hard. I am planning on parking my '90 B series for the later half of the fall season, and through winter. Since, I will be driving my squarebody.

I am just curious on few things, before I start getting everything ready to store this truck. I already plan on changing all fluids, and filters than I can. The truck, will be stored in a somewhat insulated shop. What would be the best fuel to fill it up with? Before letting it sit for a good 4 to 5 months at least. I'm assuming just some run of the mill non ethanol fuel, with a fuel stabilizer mixed in.

As well as, whats the best thing to keep the mice out from snacking on wiring in the truck, and making nests. I've heard of black ice, doing something however I'm unsure.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

How about a battery tender unit?

Why not drive it every two weeks?

 

A battery tender.
a Cat to discourage rodents.
for fuel a full bottle or 2 of SEAFAOM.

 

That is what I forget to mention. I will have the battery on a tender.

Why not drive it every two weeks?
I might the only problem is, the weather. If it'll be a sunny day, then yeah I will otherwise no. Reason being, with how the suspension is set up, and with the wheels tires I'm running. I'd rather not especially due to the wheels I have on it right now, through the Washington weather, not to mention when it snows the salt. Another reason why, is the truck has no choke which shouldn't stop me from running in the cold, however my B series is so cold blooded. It burbles, and doesn't idle right below 70F. Both things, I could fix but I'm not willing too at this time. Also not to mention the fact, that the rain is coming hard here, and last fall it got stuck in my driveway due to the mud. So I'd rather park it, and not get stuck/ruin the wheels/get more rust on the back of the cab.

 

Lucky for me, I have a cat. Trouble is the cat is lazy, and doesn't like going in the shop. I'm assuming due to the pissed off air compressor.

Also Seafoam, hm that ought to work. I was thinking Heet but was just unsure.

 

I have tested most all the fuel stabilizers over the years, and it seems seafoam held specific gravity more consistent and for about 8 months. I have NEVER found any gas stabilizer that really works more than 8 months with most available fuel formulas now used in the USA.
All I can say is don't completely trust the ads about them. It is a PIA to drain a fuel system when fuel goes bad.
And don't believe what people/members claim. It not their engine and most don't know how to test the fuel other than with their nose. LOL

For the more curious members and others reading this, all you need to do is connect to your OBDII diagnostic connector with a good scanner not BLUE TOOTH. Go to knock values and timing. See what your average information is reporting and note them. Then using your stored approx. 5 gallons of gasoline with your choice of fuel stabilizer that you had stored for about 4 -6 months introduce it into your gas tank with no more than 1/8 of fuel. Then go see what your new unmembers look like compared to the first numbers.
The ECU can only adjust so far for poor fuel quality.

 

Oh I dont have a rodent issue at my house.....

 

​​​​​​Huh interesting ok good thing to know.
Also man I'm glad I don't have obd or an ECU in my truck. That was just a pain with getting it to run right.

 

Yes technically you missed the OBD ECUs by one year and the better system start in 1995 with OBDII.
But you still technically fall into the year that platforms aprox 1980-1990 went through "wonky" replacements for point type ignition system to electronic ignition systems. Instead of carry an extra set of ignition points you had to in some cases carry a rather expensive extra back up ignition control module. LOL

 

​​​​​Yep. Though Instead of ignition control modules. I carry distributor rotors and caps. Just im case my Mazda, gets back in the habit of destroying either one.

Actually off topic but still funny. On the Tin Grill era dodge trucks. You have to have at least 2 ignition controls modules in the glove box, in case one goes haywire.