Hi Folks, I'm new to this forum, my apologies if this is in the wrong section, please just let me know where to post it if that's the case.

I was previously a mechanic at performance shops and dealerships but have little to no experience working on this type of high-pressure system in the newer Mazda's.

The car is a 2016 CX3 Touring and popped P0192 a few days ago which is Fuel Pressure Sensor Low input.

The car will stumble like its lacking fuel if you press on the accelerator beyond ~20% throttle, it also takes a little extra time to get started and would have a hard time keeping a smooth idle. I proceeded to look up the Bosch 0261545074 and saw Amazon had it so I ordered it up, replaced it in about 5 minutes, no leaks everything looked good, I cleared the code with a basic scanner and started it up, it started better, held an idle but then the code came right back, I drove it around the block gently to see how it changed and it felt much much better but still felt like something was not right. I did not realize these sensors are not the same and must have varying volt ranges for different pressure's so I'm just guessing the sensor is not correct and I'll have to get the correct one, but I wasn't able to find anything at a parts place nearby that is compatible which was very strange to me, so after I googled the subject I read that you cannot buy the sensor alone and it comes with the fuel rail and costs over $700 (WTF)

Before I go any further down the rabbit hole I told myself I'd get on a Mazda forum and read up more but have not found anything helpful yet so here I am asking for some help.

 

Hello Dustin1,
We have a 2016 CX3 Sport with the 2.0 which has the same issue. At highway speeds, each time, complete shutdown! Also have noticed a surge of sorts when backing the cold car out of the garage, putting in drive and touching the accelerator it jumps. This was also reported to the dealer, but its like a pressure build up in the tranny of my old Ford truck...leaps forward.

Car was brought to the dealer each time with no luck in replicating the issue at 55K, 114K, and most recently at 132K. First time, it stalled at 65mph (Winter day -2deg. F) and was able to get to the shoulder safely. Left the car off for 5mins. looking around the engine, 1/4 tank of gas (on the way to the gas station 1/4 mile away). It cranked, popped, then started again and got it to the station - did not shut off and still had the Check Engine light. Read the P0192 with my ODBII reader at home and brought to the original dealer the next morning with the reader hooked up and cycling the error on the 40mile trip. Dealer read the code, checked pressures, nothing! Code reset and went home.

2nd time, again highway speeds - Check Engine - 65mph stalled (Fall day 52deg. F) and again let it sit. Banged under the gas tank which just got a Low Fuel light (on the way to the gas station 1/4 mile away)...pattern here? This time, cranking and cranking no luck called for tow. Brought to another dealer where they held the car for 3 days and repeatedly tested for the P0192 to repeat thinking low gas might be the issue, but no luck.

3rd time, again highway speeds - Check Engine - 65mph stalled (Spring evening 57deg. F) and again let it sit for 20mins. Banged under the gas tank which had more than 1/4 tank. Tried several times cranked only. Didn't have my reader, but disconnected the NEG and reset the code still would not start. Left overnight for 6 hours and tried the next day and only cranked. Splashed maybe 1/2 gal. of gas in the tank and it cranked over after several attempts. Ran very sluggish for 5 min. trip to the gas station. The tank is 11 or 12 gals., only 7 gals. to fill it up. I did not take to the dealer, but did report it to the original dealer after resetting the code and have run a couple thousand more miles (long commute to work). It's behaving OK and keeping the tank above 1/4 to 3/8...so far, so good.

Not a Gas or Weather issue in my opinion. I'm hesitant about throwing an FPS at it if it goes deeper, but I seriously doubt its fuel pump related anymore. It has to be in the rail as you noted, but they have no other history of this reported. The CX3 is mfg. in Japan I believe. Not sure what network dealers reach through, but this is a problem. It sounds like some Mazda3's and 6's have seen this code as well.

Still in the dark, not giving up! Anyone else seeing this issue.
Good luck!

 

I changed the sensor with no luck. Then I got an inexpensive junk yard high pressure pump for about $95 shipped and that did the trick. The entire job took me less than an hour, that being said I was once a mechanic so it could take you a little longer. I noticed the one that came out looked fine but it was sticking so I think it could be a part that could be rebuilt. If you're mechanically inclined and don't want to blow the money on the parts, try to remove it, clean it and put it back in. I had zero leaks too.

The dealership was no help besides playing dumb like these things never ever happen and that you'll get a leak if you don't use them to install 100% new parts across the whole fuel system. My friend is a service manager and all the dealers are literally trained to tell customers they never see the problems happen from corporate so I gave up on that.

I wish you luck and hope it's quick and simple.

My tell was that I used my basic Bluetooth code reader and phone app to watch the fuel pressure readings, they started and stayed under 100psi which told me that the in-tank pump which is the low pressure pump was functioning and supplying the engine with enough fuel but was not making anywhere near the high pressure it should and that's the job of the HPP bolted to the head at the end of the cam shaft.

Your car will not push itself beyond it's safety limits since they are so electronically controlled by the ECU which is ran by sensors feedback, so there are 2 scenarios here with these symptoms of it slightly struggling but not dying. It's either the pressure sensor or the high pressure pump. If the sensor is bad but your pump is working, your car won't run well at all, it will go into a limp mode and probably stall itself to be safe so that it isn't starved and cause damage like burn up your catalytic converter and that will cause other failures. If it's the pump give bad and your sensor is working it will know it's only getting the low pressure from the fuel pump and limit itself to the capabilities tuned up to that fuel pressure which is what I had and you might also have. That means light to mid throttle it's getting enough gas and doesn't need the high pressure to make more load so it hits that point and stumbles a bit.

One way to check with no scanner at all would be to let the car run at idle and if it's struggling already unplug the fuel pressure sensors wire, it's right there in the frontafront doesn't take much, if the sensor is already dead the car won't change since it's input/output won't be any different, butibut it dies on you then it was working and you can trouble shoot more scenarios.

Hope that helps you.

 

dustin

i may be having similar issues.

my idle is good. but when i put the car under load it struggles and almost sounds like its misfiring.

ive been getting codes, p0171, p0123, p0222 i replaced my MAF and still same problems. my mechanic friend said its fuel delivery issue. i hear my pumps turn on but not sure which pump is malfunctioning if any. but since im good at idle, the low pressure pump seems to be fine. but when using under load makes sense that the high pressure pump would be bad.

ive been asking for help here and no one has had any input for me..

thanks

 

I looked up those codes and 2 are for the TPS sensor and one for lean bank 1. I would replace the TPS sensor andoand/check it's wiring and plug. If the throttle position is out of wack that would explain why it's running lean.

 

i purchased a new throttle body/sensor on ebay and it should be here this week.

i also got a live scanner, but dont understand some of the readings, in relation to TPS and fuel delivery. not sure if the scanner would tell me. would you know the abbreviations to look out for?

 

Please take a look at NHTSA Campaign Number 19V497. You're vehicle is not covered............but it should be. I'm having the same problem with my 2017 Mazda CX-5. Driving 65MPH on the highway during a long trip and the engine completely shuts off. Thankfully, both times it happened I was able to get to the side of the road without getting killed or killing someone else. My dealership ran a diagnostic and gave me some $1400 song and dance. Wrong. That's not the problem. The problem is a software error identified in the recall notice that doesn't yet cover my car. By the time I'm done, it hopefully will.

 

NHTSA Campaign Number 19V497 is related to Cylinder deactivation. Nothing to do with Fuel systems. I don't believe CX-3's have cylinder deactivation.

 

200 miles into a trip, the engine suddenly died at about a 1/4 tank full. I saw the CEL in the few seconds it took to rev down to 0, while I wondering where the power went... 65mph, 40F evening
I recall the rpm's seemed to ramp down step-wise, maybe that was the transmission shifting down, maybe into neutral?, before the engine died. Luckily, I found myself quietly rolling onto a side street.
After stopping, there was a strange buzzing noise coming from the top of the engine, maybe the HPP suddenly failed?
Car wouldn't start after that. Next morning, I read the P0192 code. It was hard to start, coughed to life, but was running, maybe a cylinder misfire according to the tow-truck driver (he's not a mechanic for a reason). But at that point, it went straight on the tow truck.

I won't know more until it's checked out during business hours at a independent shop.
The car has about 49k miles

Update: Independent mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the car. he drove it around for half an hour and the sensor readings were all ok. he checked the sensor connections and said it looked ok.
I drove the car 200+ miles home without incident.

 

Hi, I had the same issue back in Feb, 2020. My car is a 2016 CX-3 GT, odometer at 90,378 when the engine shut off while I was driving at highway speeds on 2/16/2020. I had 60 miles remaining on the gas tank. I managed to slow down to the shoulder of the interstate while I called for towing. The car would not start, even though I kept trying pressing the start, but after 20 minutes, the car started shakily. I was right by an exit with a gas station so I pulled into the station and pumped more gas. Then drove it back home and the next day took it to the Mazda service center, where they said they found p0192 and then replaced the high pressure fuel pump, at $1300

Fast forward a couple months later, I'm making the same drive, the car stopped at the same exact place on the interstate. I remember I also had 60 miles remaining on the gas tank. So this time I just waited and re-started my car and drove it off the exit to the gas station and filled it with gas.

Really dangerous problem and lucky I did not cause any accidents. I keep my car above 100 miles remaining on the gas tank meter now. Has anyone tried to contact Mazda to see if they got a lemon?