I have a 2016.5 CX-5 Touring. The car ran fine on Wed and Thu. Didn't drive it Fri or Sat. Tried to start it on Sunday afternoon and nothing. Here are the symptoms and my attempts at troubleshooting...

1) Foot on brake pedal. The pedal is not moving like normal. It barely moves, but the Start button turns green to indicate I have my foot on the brake. It's done this before and as soon as the car starts, the pedal feel normal again.
2) The keyfob light is green. The Start button is green. Press Start. Nothing happens (no cranking or clicking). Maybe I hear a short groan type noise.
3) All the idiot lights turn on as with a normal start, but I'm left with several on after the others clear:
- Battery icon
- Power Steering icon (what's up with that!)
- Seat belt (not wearing it to start the car)
- Engine
4) The steering wheel is also stuck / won't move.
5) With foot off the brake, the Start button light turns amber.
6) All electrical stuff in the car appears to work (lights, radio, etc)

I tried disconnecting the battery for a while to hopefully reset something. Re-connect and no change.
With the car in the "not started, amber light mode" I was able to shift into reverse (got backup camera) and neutral then back into Park. I did this in case the car thought it wasn't in Park.
I tested the battery voltage. Just under 13V. My neighbor put a load tester on it and it was on the fair/good line for a 600 CCA battery.
I then tried charging the battery and put on fast charge for 3 hours. Removed charger and tried to start it. No change.
I then tried jumping the car with my wife's Outback. No change.

The battery was replaced in mid-January with a Diehard Gold. It shouldn't be bad, but you'd think jumping it from the Outback would have worked if it was a bad battery.
The keyfob light is green and the battery in it is pretty new (last summer?), so I'm guessing it's OK.
So the car won't start and nothing I've tried had had any effect. Luckily it's in my driveway.
I have to press the Start button (w/ amber light) to turn the dash off.

I'm looking for more things to check / test / etc. Any/all help would be greatly appreciated. Like I said earlier, the car was fine. Never an issue. Ran perfect on Thursday. Won't start on Sunday.

 

Does that mean the meter was reading 12.9V? If so, that's an unusually high static voltage reading (after multiple start attempts), and could possibly be an indication that something is wrong internally with the battery. You can confirm/eliminate the battery as the issue by temporarily swapping the Outback battery into the Mazda and try to start it with that one.

 

I just took my multi-meter out there and the battery is measuring 12.50 volts.

Wouldn't the attempt to jump the car using the Outback be the same as actually swapping the battery in there?

 

A bad battery can produce all sorts of weird symptoms, depending on what's wrong with it, so I wouldn't rule anything out. That said, 12.5V is very normal, and reduces the probability that the battery is bad. In your place I'd do the quick swap and try the start, simply because it's such an easy test to do, and will produce a conclusive result. Your call on that one.

Beyond the battery, did you check the fuses and relays? If the battery, fuses, and relays are all good, then my next step in the diagnosis would be testing at the starter relay, where quite a bit of useful information is available.

 

I did check a handful of fuses that looked interesting but not a thorough check. I guess I need to spend my lunch hour out there.

I borrowed a neighbors OBD2 reader (BlueSomething) and it reported two codes: U3006 and C1031. Did some searching and didn't find any smoking gun clues, but I'm getting out of my comfort zone at this point.

The really odd thing (to me anyway) is the power steering idiot light but searching with that hasn't turned up any strong clues either. The people that have it have said a new battery fixed their issue.

Thanks for the replies. The search continues for at least today before getting it towed somewhere.

 

Did you try the Outback battery swap? If not, I suggest doing so, because one OBD info source that I read shows excessive voltage as one possible trigger for the P3006 code.

 

I did not try the battery swap yet as it's raining and the cars are both outside (and I'm working from home).

FWIW, the code was a U3006 "Control Module Input Power A (TPMS / PATS)" according to the OBD scanner. It turns out PATS stands for Passive Anti-Theft System. Could my car be just confused/immobilized? Is there a way to override it? The security light blinks every 2 seconds as expected when just sitting there.

 

Did you read #2



(A guess based on OPs information on both threads he started asking the same thing) Its IMHO not a battery problem with all the posted information thus far.

Here is his other thread with the same question. Sorta makes it difficult to help a member needing to read both threads same question with different responses and information? ??? Maybe the 2 threads should be combined?
2016.5 CX-5 Won't Start/Crank - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

 

Update: Finally got access to the starter. The starter solenoid is getting a 12V control signal when the Start button is pressed, but there is no click and no sign of 12V on the solenoid output, so that sure sounds like a bad solenoid to me. Off to the local repair shop to get that fixed.

 

And $450 later the car has a new (re-man) starter/solenoid and all is well. First issue in 60K miles other than normal maintenance. Can't complain too much. Thanks for the help here and via PM. Appreciate it!