I have been using HF's imitation front wheel chock stand for years: https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-l...ock-61670.html

I'll use it in the garage when I need the bike straight up for maintenance as it is very stable on its own. I can also throw in in the back of a truck when necessary. For the money (and with 20% off) it has been a great purchase over the years and hasn't failed me yet. My open 4x8 trailer has another style chock bolted in.

If you want the original look at Condor.

The chock provides a stable base to keep the bike from rocking left or right to a degree. If the D-rings are at the front corners I would use straps between the forks and the closest ring so that bike is pulled forward and to the corners. Since the chock is not solidly attached you want it pulled towards the front wall of the trailer. I would recommend a Canyon Dancer II handlebar strap to help with this. Ideally, the rings will be low so that front suspension gets compressed also.

Done properly you wouldn't necessarily need to strap the rear down unless you just wanted to. If not strapped, the worst it'll do is bounce the rear of the bike up and down and after a big bump in the road. Can't hurt though.

As always, never tow a bike on the kickstand - that's just asking for frame damage.

 

Dasrider, thank you for your suggestion. I will not put the bike on the centerstand or kickstand. I will check with our local Harbor Freight store if they have the chuck.

Thanks again.

 

After thinking about this for a bit I would strap the rear down anyway. For a trip that long you very well may have to make some emergency braking maneuvers. If that's done while the rear wheel is off the ground it could be ugly.

Let us know how the CX feels while towing that much load. I'm considering adding a trailer hitch to ours in order to get my bike to the track.

 

Update: I made it in 1,780 miles to my destination with the my bike in a UHaul trailer. I used the $59.99 Harbor Freight motorcycle chock suggested by dasrider https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-l...ock-61670.html. With a 3/4" plywood, I screwed the chock onto it. To prevent the plywood from shifting on the trailer bed, I screwed 1"x2" wood on the sides resting against the sides of the trailer. To prevent the plywood from sliding backwards to the tailgate of the trailer, I screwed D-Rings near the rear corners of the plywood and strapped the d-rings to the middle floor D-Rings of the trailer. By the way, I used a center stand dolly with no problem at all. The bike was tight and secure. I made it without any incident although my CX-5 was struggling. I only averaged 17.4 mpg the entire 1,780 miles. I reserved a UHaul 5x8 close trailer but I was issued a 6x12 with 2 axles. I did not complain because I was on a tight schedule. I had to arrive at my destination in 2 days because I was meeting my relatives there. For the most of the steady incline highways going into the mountain, my CX-5 was always in 5th gear. BTW, I was on manual mode all the way to make more efficient shifting on inclines with adaptive cruise on. There was a 4% to 5% uphill grade on my final stretch that I had to shift to 3rd gear in order to negotiate the hill. I will not go to the same UHaul facility next time I need a trailer.

 

A 6x12 enclosed trailer is pretty big for a 4-cylinder. Glad to hear everyone made it without incident. Good to know these cars can handle a little extra load when required.

 

I tow a BMW GS motorcycle ( 600 lbs) on a 1000 pound Kendon open motorcycle trailer so about 1800 lbs when the spare tire and some other gear are added. My 2016 AWD GT tows this fairly well but struggles when going over mountain passes. I tow from Montana to Arizona and back every year and it's border line with this set up. I also have a Thule roof box so that adds weight and drag. My average fuel economy is 17 mph. At that point I should just put the bike in the back of my Tundra and drive that. Same result and a less crazy ride. These little SUV's will tow but it's not ideal.