From my read (not surprisingly different from Cali's...) he is asking if anyone here has additional pointers to help him succeed in having his engine repaired. As others have been successful getting this done, why not ask and see if they have some good advice? I personally am not surprised he would be frustrated/upset about an engine failure at 60k on a 5yr old car for which he paid a lot of money. This is especially true considering, in this thread alone, we see many examples of others who had the same issue. There is definitely a problem with some of these motors in a specific production period. It should be easy to find out if the motor in question was made in this period. I would say this case highlights the benefit of making sure your car is serviced at an authorized Mazda dealer while under the OEM warranty, just in case something like this happens. I understand the poster is "far" away from the dealer - the definition of which varies depending on who you ask. This always plays a role in my decision to buy a new car. If I don't have a dealer in a reasonable range, I likely wouldn't buy the car.

In any event, I hope you get your engine fixed. As to the final question in your post about selling your car after the repair, I would expect the chances of a recurrence to be quite low if they replace the defective parts correctly, but you have to decide if it bothers you enough to want a new car.

 

No one except Mazda knows the actual number of vehicles this has affected.
TSB says the following.
"Some vehicles may have coolant leaks at the cylinder head around the exhaust manifold (as shown below). There may be cracks at the stud bolt hole or at the outside of the exhaust manifold. Cracks may be caused by: Deformation of the exhaust manifold during usage causing unexpected force to certain areas of the cylinder head; Residual stress generated during production in the cylinder head material may be greater than expected. The external force from the exhaust system when driving over bumps may cause unexpected force to certain areas of the cylinder head. To eliminate this concern, the design of the exhaust manifold gasket and the cylinder head has been modified to reduce the force on the cylinder head. Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure."

US Spec.: 2019-2020 CX-5 SKYACTIV-G 2.5T vehicles with VINs lower than JM3KF******830243 (produced before Jun. 9, 2020)
2016-2020 CX-9 SKYACTIV-G 2.5T vehicles with VINs lower than JM3TC******422801 (produced before Jun. 9, 2020)
2018-2020 Mazda6 SKYACTIV-G 2.5T vehicles with VINs lower than JM1GL******523967 (produced before Mar. 25, 2020)
Mexico Spec.: 2019-2020 Mazda6 SKYACTIV-G 2.5T vehicles with VINs lower than JM1GL******523672 (produced before Mar. 21, 2020)

The cost of any court action is likely to be more than the repair cost even if you win.



.

 

OK, then you've already done just about everything possible trying to get cooperation from Mazda. Most of these NA cracked head reports included some degree of smoke coming from the engine bay, due to oil dripping down onto the hot exhaust manifold, from the crack in the back of the head. Was that the case with your vehicle as well? If so, there is one other possibility for you to try.

 

Yes, we had the smoke coming from the engine bay into the cabin due to the leaking oil.

 

The TSB you listed above is for 2.5T motors. He has an NA as they didn't offer a 2.5T in 2018.

 

You still don't understand that all TSBs are used for helping solving problems even if they are not specific and are intended to be used by "EXPERENCED TRAINED individuals working in service shops for the most part MAZDA. When you have full access to the authorized use of any TSB researching like problems can help to solve many issues with other model MAZDA none specific. Some shops will type in key words and it will bring up several TSBs. So by reading all of them many times you can either resolve or at least have more information on a service procedure similar to the TSB to help resolve a problem.

 

I do have the ability to read, and I know it's for a 2.5T (I'll point out that Mazda listed the 2018 2.5T on the TSB, not I)
The same issue is occurring with "some" N/A as well though.
While there is no definitive proof of this engines produced after those dates have supposedly corrected the issue.
Your guess is a good as mine on that as is exactly how many engines this is actually affecting.

Unfortunately, once you pass the warranty period, no matter what the product is, the company who issues it is under no obligation to do anything.
Does it suck, sure, but it is what it is. All one can do is try and purchase products from reputable sources.
Doing so saved me the cost of a new fuel tank on both a Ducati and Kawasaki motorcycles, several months after the warranty had expired.
But I have also been burned by many warranty "expirations", unfortunately it is the world in which we live.
One can always purchase an extended warranty because we all know whatever warrantied item you have, if it is going to fail, it will the day after it expires.

 

chickdr19:

Its been a few weeks but I finally have time to address this.
Can you have Antoine from mazda247 contact me? Smike overstepped his bounds in banning me and spinning his own tales of false reports.
then he logged in here to discredit my SO's posts as she was extremely worried about the cx-5.
My vehicle had a cracked cylinder... my significant other created accounts on several different sites(hence the same ip address)
to ask for more information as she was questioning whether the mazda would last. If Antoine reinstates me, I can provide him the repair invoice
my personal info redacted of course.

Thanks,
JR

 

Really Dude. you're like an internet stalker. Did you ever think that several family members may be identified by the same ip address ?
and then leveling false accusations ?

 

The cracked head may be un-noticable to most people at first especially if driving at highway speed.
It may be smoking as your driving down the highway, but between the closed hood and the wind, the smoke will not be noticeable and you will not smell too much in cabin. if you haven't lost too much oil or coolant, your thermo will read normal.

when you arrive at your destination, if you leave it idle while you remain in car, then you will smell the burning oil.
You wont see too much til you pop the hood and the smoke will gush out. leave it run and you will see sparks as the drops catch fire on the manifold. Use a mirror and you will see the leak on the back side. shut the car off. you will notice the large oil spots on your driveway(if its paved). It only leaks while running at warm. At cold startup...you wont see it, it will take a few minutes...once it reaches operating temps, you will see the oil flowing out the cracked head.

Once it goes, it happens quickly, you'll lose a quart easy, maybe more. Shut it down and have it towed.