At 17,000 miles ( literally ) and 1 year As the engine began warming up I heard a ticking sound , as if it were a valve - ? The sound appears when the temp is between 120-209 ...Say 190 it starts ...then once at 209 it fully dissapears. I called my trusted Mazda service dept ( a very reputable dealer ) and was told that if there are no warning lights -its common as the fuel pump is likely the source , since the fuel rails / pump were " beefd up " due to past issues of pump failure at 60k - So if Im not getting any check engine ( timing ) not to worry - or bring it in if I like - anyone had this happen-? I noticed cylinder deactivation kicks in long before the engine is fully warm- - which seems odd ..but it runs fine .
Just never heard this sound before with the windows up .Thanks. !!

 

Noises ... They are hard to define unless you are present and know what everything is supposed to sound like and when.
here is my video short and all those sounds are normal. My engine is in perfect working order, and I test frequently
You can see that the cell phone close to areas can make normal sounds to a DIY alarming.
You can try to make a short video but unless there is something wrong and as the dealership commented a DTC or the monitors in fault it is likely just your personal engine noise. Also you engine is still in the break in period. The Skyactiv engine are not fully broke in until min. 20-25k miles.

I might add that you engine warm temperature's are not how they run. you ran together Closed and open loop operation temperature's

 

Appreciate that - Ive gone thru this on every new car Ive had ~ Something Im unaccustomed to hearing- starts a troubleshooting sequence ....Thanks for the video - appears you pulled the valve cover insulation off- mine sounds similar - Im pretty sure the noise is insolated to the circular pump cover ( with triangular bolt pattern) which is just below the brake master cylinder reservoir .
I let it idle with the hood up and skyactive is just a different animal compared to pre-2012 Mazda engines - still in learning curve - the help you guys put out here is great - hope I can return the favor - !

 

For me the mazda was the noisiest engine i've owned. The noise was disturbing but the mechanic assured me it was normal. The injectors are extremely loud.

However later... What sounded like my valves/lifters started tapping... A distinct loud metallic sound. On my 2018, the hydraulic tappets or HLA's ( Hydraulic Lash adjusters) get air bubbles mixed with the oil. This happens especially when cold startup in cold temps. It may go away but if it doesnt, needs replacement of the eight(8) switchable HLA's. Replacing all 16 would be best but the TSB only called for the 8 switchable(s)

Check the TSB to see what years are affected. your newer cx-5 may be unaffected.

Otherwise the mazda engine sounds are normal. I've finally gotten use to it.

 

Not all TSB are correct or accurate. Another reason why they are written for Auto Technicians and not the general public. They are an alert that some Tech entered when he encountered a problem and wanted it documented. The HLA get supplied oil via both volume and pressure and do not hold any oil that passes through them.



As for a noisiest engines try a MCS 2002-2004 (Supercharged) , makes a Mazda very quiet by comparison.. LOL

 

The intersting thing is , it made the noise after 2 cold starts after it sat with a full ( topped off tank ) in the garage for a week- simple 5min warm up and on the road ... I double checked my previous oil -type -viscosity ,filters etc / all checked out, as I do my own oil changes - I did 2 cold starts from the garage ( flat ) and listened , hood up , until at full operating temp - the closest noise I heard was the fuel pump which didnt get nearly as loud , but was creating the identical noise- I wish I had pulled over and opened the hood when it acted up as now Ive driven 4 short trips ( after a full warm up ) in 2 days and its gone ? The only 2 things I can identify were driving with a full+ tank ( topped off ) and or doing so while driving before it was fully warmed up - under load -This is my historical habit - drive gently untill fully up to 209f. So its a mystery - now down only 1/8th tank and its great - possibly some bad gas...,,,? but no warning lights ever - My hope is - the fuel pump is acting up ( live at 5500 ft ). The worst would be that before reaching full operating temp - the cylinder deactivation is stopping fuel but valve(s) are somehow interfering - why that damn system kicks on with an engine thats running cold is a mystery ...suppose if it was valve(s) that this pinball machine would have coded on me ?
No TSBs - So for the sake of my fellow 22-23 owners - if it acts up again ..and I get to it B4 it dissapears - I will post it here 1st.

 

Your engine is fully capable of driving normal when the coolant light goes off which is 129.9F . The HO2s are no longer heating so the ECU changes it operation to normal running . The CAT is already at or above 800F and the oil temperature is at least equally the coolant but generally greater by 30+ degrees.

 

This is diehard888 - I tried to change my password and was locked out - so I reregistered under this sn -
Anyway ....appreciate that info ...Ive backtracked and considered every possibility and the only one that makes sense ( since I cannot recreate the sound ..is that I overfilled the tank and the EVAP system somehow caused the fuel pump to act up - Its unlikely it was a valve ...and now that the fuel has gone down below " F" its gone - its speculative but next time I fill up - not topping off the tank - which in therory should trip a check eng. light - but didnt? so in fact it remains a mystery - thanks again

 

My 2019 CX5 has done this on occasions since 2019 especially in cold Canadian Winter. it's normal.

 

If you over filled the fuel tank your woud have caused a couple other DTC that you did not mention getting. And the odd of damaging the fuel pumps are well in the last thing to consider list. Had you pressurized your fuel tank during a over fill the gas first would have spilled back all over you and the side of the car. On most federally and state regulated pumps that is very hard to do anymore.


On your account : You may want to PM Grime_Realer and see if he can merge correct your first account or change the couple of threads you started with your ne user name. Or he may be able to change your current user name close to your old account name so it help the rst of us remember who your are?