So try to keep n mind this is a MAZDA forum and a thread about MAZDAs and your examples are taking us all over the vehicle spectrum. LOL Why don't you go brag about your fictional CAI on those forums.... Oh wait there might or is a member there like myself that knows better... about the subject of aftermarket parts what works and what does not work as claimed.
Your heat levels (AMBIENT OPERATING TEMPRETURES) are close enough as mine here where I live in CA. I have posted pictures over the years and I also have a customer in your city I do ECU Performance Calibrating for his none Mazda "RIDE".
As for your engine running cooler in other than summer months is actually common, but that has to do with air density more then temperature.
On a MAZDA most OE parts definition's call the main unit an AIR CLAENER BODY & AIR CLEANER COVER, with an INLET DUCT and AIR INLET HOSE ...... Nowhere does it say or claim a cold ait inlet. WHY, that would actatiully go against one of the engineered operating p[erimeters of the MAZDA gas engine to lower exhaust emissions.


Really the only thing you seem to be Butt hurt about is that someone said your CAI does not work as claimed. Nothing you posted suggested other wise. It is also NOT a MAZDA so unless you have a MAZDA with an aftermarket CAI then your are in the wrong forum? IMHO!!!!




BTW if you look around this forum I also installed 2 scopes under the front plastic engine cover to draw in outside air with one attached hose you can not see in the picture directed for air flow on the CAI
The only thing it accomplished was to slightly lower the IATs if I changed TB % in the 35%+ range and then it took about 3 minutes. The factory MAZDA airbox did better than that. However I do have a manual control over the radiator fans and can turn them on without the AC full which does help control the total under hood temperatures also heat soak when I turn the engine off and leave the fans running for about 5 minutes . I do that mostly during the summer to support the AC as well I can run full fan speed no matter what the AC setting is anytime. .

 

[QUOTE=Callisto;215388]So try to keep n mind this is a MAZDA forum and a thread about MAZDAs and your examples are taking us all over the vehicle spectrum. LOL Why don't you go brag about your fictional CAI on those forums.... Oh wait there might or is a member there like myself that knows better... about the subject of aftermarket parts what works and what does not work as claimed.
Your heat levels (AMBIENT OPERATING TEMPRETURES) are close enough as mine here where I live in CA. I have posted pictures over the years and I also have a customer in your city I do ECU Performance Calibrating for his none Mazda "RIDE".
As for your engine running cooler in other than summer months is actually common, but that has to do with air density more then temperature.
On a MAZDA most OE parts definition's call the main unit an AIR CLAENER BODY & AIR CLEANER COVER, with an INLET DUCT and AIR INLET HOSE ...... Nowhere does it say or claim a cold ait inlet. WHY, that would actatiully go against one of the engineered operating p[erimeters of the MAZDA gas engine to lower exhaust emissions.


Really the only thing you seem to be Butt hurt about is that someone said your CAI does not work as claimed. Nothing you posted suggested other wise. It is also NOT a MAZDA so unless you have a MAZDA with an aftermarket CAI then your are in the wrong forum? IMHO!!!!

[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mazdaforum.com-vbulletin/800x600/img_20230503_113015606_hdr_2_2b8b6dda4a0f8dbb0444a e4c2fa536c1a16364f5.jpg


BTW if you look around this forum I also installed 2 scopes under the front plastic engine cover to draw in outside air with one attached hose you can not see in the picture directed for air flow on the CAI
The only thing it accomplished was to slightly lower the IATs if I changed TB % in the 35%+ range and then it took about 3 minutes. The factory MAZDA airbox did better than that. However I do have a manual control over the radiator fans and can turn them on without the AC full which does help control the total under hood temperatures also heat soak when I turn the engine off and leave the fans running for about 5 minutes . I do that mostly during the summer to support the AC as well I can run full fan speed no matter what the AC setting is anytime. .[/QUOTE
THE UNDER HOOD TEMPS ARE HIGHER THAN THE OUTSIDE AIR. The CAI on the Camaro was fed from the front grill that I cut and installed a ram air scoop in ,and it did in fact work especially when you hit over 30mph or more. There have been many scientifically tests done on properly engineered CAI systems ,and they do in fact show gains and work . As to why I'm not on the Camaro forum, and here now ,I sold and don't own the Camaro anymore I own the CX5. You my have noticed that i have not modified or attempted to modify the CX5 as I know it would be silly and fruitless . My next vehicle will more than likely be a EV and faster than most internal combustion vehicles. And none of this will matter . Real engineers as far back or further as the 1962 Air box Corvette knew this and made use of the system.

 

OMG you are missing the point... your CAI was only drawing in the ambient air the vehicle velocity would by physics effectively lower the air temperature in take charge at or close to the ambient. This does not prove or support an aftermarket CAI does this any better then a factory air box and inductive system. And once you were off that vehicles velocity the intake or IAT using a CAI would raise again. Which bring me to another point of why a aftermarket CAI does not work, it fluctuates the IATS much greater then a factory air box so the consistency of the engine power level is GONE!
So the term used CAI COLD AIR INTAKE (LOL) is false misleading and in the case of the most popular way they are manufactured to fit in most engine bays don't work as claimed!

OMG go buy one for your MAZDA if you feel so strongly about your support of CAI workability !!!

 

You miss the point, the stock Mazda can not use /ingest any more air ,and it has a properly designed air box that draws air from outside the engine compartment . Why would I waste money on something that would not be a significant improvement on the factory stock CX5 . If in fact some company has designed a better system for the CX5 and it produced better power and fuel mileage it might be a consideration if it weren't cost effective . An internal combustion engine is an air pump ,and the NA 2.5 in its stock form can not benefit in any significant way from more air flow, The intake manifold, throttle body cam ,heads and exhaust would need to be modified/enlarged. And the computer be reprogramed . IMHO there is no cost effective way to get more from the NA 2.5 in it's stock form . If I wanted a Hot rod SUV ,I would have bought a Porsche Cayenne of a Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat . Beyond the cost (that I can afford) both would cause me to loose my drivers license ,Insurance, and keep my third wife and kid off my *** . I bought the Mazda CX5 for reasonably priced comfortable transportation to do the job until I can figure out hoe to get into something more exciting ,entertaining and satisfying to drive. We exhausted and kicked the dead horse enough. You believe what you want ,and so will I ,there is no hope either of us will convince the other.

 

The MAZDA air box flows more CFM then the 2.5 can develops. The biggest intake hose and CAI will make no difference as far as increasing the CFM supplied to the 2.5 engine as it is. So you just pointed another reason why not to use a aftermarket CAI. Go measure the CFM flow on a stack air box and air intake system to the TB I did. If you physically did not want to do the testing there is an exact formula for computing CFM of both the engine and the intake or air filter system all the way to the head and into the combustion chambers. and you never need to leave the chair in front of your computer. LOL I also tested the flow aspects using a Dwyer Magnehelic. I think I posted using it for a couple of projects on this forum?
as for why would buy something that did not work.... well you did and likely more then one vehicle because you believe the vendors/Manufactures ,forums, you tube Facebook, etc., information chain..

 

If you want a mod that will beat a CAI every time on a skyactiv engine, and is easy to install. Put 2 gallons of E85 in your tank.

 

You realize he agrees with you about the CX-5 and CAI's, right?

 

My response are about CAI in general or did you not read that? You only read what you want and what you think I make mistake posting about. LOL


This is an example a quick look this morning travel @ between 25 and 40 mph after the engine attained "closed loop ECU adjustment operations.
Not the temperature in the IAT. If the CA was fictional the IAT would equal the ambient which is the incoming fresh air.
This experiment can be done on most any gas engine and vehicle comparing a factory air box to an aftermarket so called performance CAI.
On most Turbocharged and Supercharged engine the temperature's comparing are even farther apart when the boost of either is applied at slower vehicle velocities. Naturally as the vehicle velocity increase and the TB % is greater the difference eventually equal out. That only proves that RAM air will equal the ambient at higher vehicle speeds what ever the fresh air intake is used factory or a aftermarket CAI. Based on this simple information you can also understand why most all CAI will not produce higher power level. How can they? LOL Alos having larger diameter hose. Tubing for a CAI while mathematically has a higher volume , that extra CFM unless the engine has a static value higher CFM then a factory air box (which I have never seen one that did) wll have no effect on the power and in actuality to cool the larger volume of air would take a little longer. So advertising point to larger CFM supplied to and engine, is just that advertising, no basic facts that they work.

Again, to close the great thing about most CAI is they look RACE and sound RACE when installed on most engines.


There is a lot of information if one understands what is being displayed on the monitors.

 

Still better than hot engine air. And it's still somewhat protected by the underbody shroud so it's not like you're taking the air that is right off the pavement itself.

 

The hood insulation primary design is to reduce the sound of the engine compartment and to keep excessive heat off the underside of the hood and actually the heat is not absorbed but returned back into the engine compartment. The process that the airflow will move from front of the engine bay and drawn out the back.
The engine cover on many platforms but we will stay on forum specific MAZDA gas Skyactiv engines was engineered and specifically designed to capture air coming through the radiator core or radiator fans (when activated) captured by the engine cover that uses the captured air to flow over the top of the intake manifold and valve cover and exit the rear of the cover.
Using a thermal digital gauge, flow meter measuring front and rear of the cover for points of air flow measurements and monitoring IAT and coolant temperature and if one has a wideband sensor to measure EGTs (not CAT temperatures) can confirm this.
Engine cover and hood insulation many think about the small insignificant parts and their role on engine operations. But often not understood or MYTH support by conjecture .