Wow! I did not know that fluid changes could fix "This is caused by a damaged bearing in the transaxle due to improper configuration of the transaxle case." I would have thought a configuration issue would have caused premature wear in any case. but I could be wrong I could see sticking valves, clutch plates, torque converter issues due to fluid not being changed... But bearings? The fluid was changed at 80K miles (Ravenol FZ 100% synthetic) despite being "Lifetime" that I don't buy,

I thought I would report back on what I did.

One repair shop wanted $200 to "diagnose" the issue. Instead, I pot it on 4 jack stands and used my automotive stethoscope to make sure the sound was from the trans, it was. So I skipped this shop. But, as expected, the car dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree, I guess it does not like to be run with all 4 wheels off the ground

I could not see putting a new trans in a 2014 car with 144K miles.

I talked to a local shop and got a quote on replacement, $1300. I ordered a used trans 2015 66K from a local salvage yard. The interesting thing to me is that they also offered a labor warranty in case there was an issue with the part. I used the $200 I saved from the "diagnosis" for this (6 month parts and labor) warranty and peace of mind. This was $1400

So, $2700 total, a trans 2 years younger, and less than half the miles, with new trans fluid...

The car is now running perfect, and the whine is all gone. I can turn down the radio volume

 

deleted my original response.......................................... . glad you got the Mazda up and running with a low mileage transmission.

 

So, wish this was the end of the story.... But, I was reminded why I originally did all the car mechanics myself over the years (but, at 68 I did not want to attempt this).

I urge everyone who can to do a sanity check on the fluid after a change.

1) I had brought Mazda FZ trans fluid and put it in the back, and instructed the service manager to use this fluid. This did not happen. The fluid/filter was still there. I gave them the FZ fluid and was reimbursed for the fluid and filter.

I was assured the "right" fluid was put in there.

When I checked the level (which Mazda has made a bit difficult, but I am now an expert even without removing the air filter box or belly pan) I saw the flid was RED! Not FZ Blue (turns to gold).

Grumble... Grumble...

2) The Fluid was overfilled by at least 1.5 Quarts (I had trouble getting my forscan bluetooth dongle to work, just got a new one and will do a 50C Degree check today) Just put it to the top line when "warm" before tool.

So, I called and nicely asked WTH... The service manager called me back a couple of days later and told me they filled with Valvoline MaxLife ATF, which was fine for my car,

My head is spinning from all the threads of using MaxLife vs OEM.... But, it looks like there are not any reported failures, just conjecture. So, I guess I will live with it. Would have preferred FZ, but whatever.... Valvoline seems to have a decent reputation.

What I can't forgive is overfilling and just putting in a USED transmission the OEM listed capacity of fluid. There is no way to completely drain ALL of the fluid out of a used transmission, One MUST check. I am glad I have a fluid extractor to make thing right and glad I know how to check, right temp (with scan tool , run through gears and check when running in park)

Since Maxlife is so much cheaper than the OEM, I will probably do the partial fluid extraction out the dipstick more like 30-40K as I don't see any change interval recommended by Valvoline.

Now to check on if mixing ATF fluids is a bad thing if I decide to go back to FZ..... Probably not though....

 

Larry,

The mixing of the SAE approved ATF is fine. The use of RED ATF fluid which BTW is a color dye is fine. Removing excess fluid is not hard at all! You can even use an aquarium air tube to do it.
I really find it hard to believe you were over 1.5 Quarts over fill but hey if you say so?
While the proper way to check the fluid is to wait until the transmission is warmed up it really is not necessary if you simply were at least the middle of the low and high marks on the dip stick. Catastrophe will not ensue.
It is not at all uncommon for dealerships to use other than MAZDA fluids which I should point out only a couple model in decades required specific fluid usage.
I should also mention if you did "infact" were 1.5 quarts over fill while I would correct that problem the Mazda Skyactiv engine design the worse thing that may have happen was a leaking transmission pan, and then maybe. And please fopr other reading this last stantment do your homework by phisically taking the Skyactive transmission aparts and be specif what you think in your own mind what could be damaged? LOL
Having taken apart 2 and have already started to make upgraded performance parts I did consider many aspects of the transmission and how everything works.

Yes you can remove and replace ALL the old transmission fluid form any automatic transmission that I am aware of! I am not aware of but there may be a couple oddball trannies I have never heard of being able to fluid service in some 100 years they have been around? LOL

About the only thing I see that is great recommendation but not easy or the know how for everyone is to double check service work you have done. if you question something have the service shop explain it and show you that it was done properly BEFORE you pay for the service and drive off!!!!!!!

More often that not when a customer picks up their ride after some service is done I either do a short ride along or take them for a drive to show them the work was finished and done correctly. I have a 2 step inspection process in the shop. The mechanic or technician doing the work must sign completion of the work and then myself or the owner of the shop inspects the work and signs off on it next to the service tech signature. We seldom almost never ever get a BE BACK from a service not done correctly. Most of the time it is a part problem which is nothing to do with the service.

In closing my fluid is a clear and bright RED CASTROL ATF fluid . No trace of MAZDA FZ fluid remains, and I am trouble free at 53K miles and oil analysis to prove it

ASE

 

Thanks Callisto for your detailed replies. I appreciate them. I just wish I knew of a place a through as yours.

I only know what the dipstick says... and it says in the middle now after about 1.75 quarts removed. It always shifted beautifully, so I can't say there is any change in how it works, but I suppose an overfill could have bad ramifications like high temp and I have read foaming?

On my original check, the dipstick appeared on the low side, but I guess Mazda is known to fill on the lower side.

I'll check again in a couple of weeks to make sure, but having put a few hundred miles on the car, I don't expect a change.

I can only think the salvage yard did not drain the torque converter? I don't know that there is a drain plug on the converter on my Mazda, unlike my Mercedes Sprinter, but the Mercedes is not specified as "Lifetime"

Thanks again,
Larry

Mechanic - That will be $400. Customer, But it only took you 1 hour? That rate is exorbitant!!! Mechanic - You are not paying for the hour, you are paying for the decades it took for me to learn to be able to do it in an hour. .

 

You can't "drain a torque converter with the exception of a few that have drain plugs.
Foaming is created by a reciprocating assembly in a sump which is not what fundamentally can happen in a Mazda Skyactiv transmission.
ALL Mazda FV and ATF fluids from Castrol , Valvoline etc have anti-foaming additives.
The Mazda Skyactiv transmission
You may look through my thread and the several serving I have done to get an idea about how any DIY can do their own basic transmission service..
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