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One example of supporting information concerning what internal parts do get damaged from none filtered partials : Most cam caps on OHV/DOHC engines have no bearings. Any metal partials going through the engine not captured by the oil filter does damage those cam caps. That's just one area I could go on... but again I am a doer of things that work and know by testing things that works and things that are "bling" . As an engine builder I know very very very well the damage that anything but filtered oil going through and engine does!
At this point maybe we can see that this thread with a couple of us are...
What is funny is anyone reading this thread and participating is now likely to get ads for DRAIN PLUGS now for a while.
I've yet to hear any naysayer claim a magnetic drain plug would do any harm (of course not). Why would anyone argue against a preventative measure that has no downside, even if they aren't personally convinced of it's necessity? It's like telling me not to put screens on my windows because I shouldn't be bothered by flies in the house.
I've yet to hear any naysayer claim a magnetic drain plug would do any harm (of course not). Why would anyone argue against a preventative measure that has no downside, even if they aren't personally convinced of it's necessity? It's like telling me not to put screens on my windows because I shouldn't be bothered by flies in the house.
You cannot prove a positive with a negative. Please offer any proof you can think of which indicates magnetic drain plugs are anything but snake oil.
I've yet to hear any naysayer claim a magnetic drain plug would do any harm (of course not). Why would anyone argue against a preventative measure that has no downside, even if they aren't personally convinced of it's necessity? It's like telling me not to put screens on my windows because I shouldn't be bothered by flies in the house.
Attending hundreds of:
Car shows
Specialty Automotive shows = SEMA
Air shows
Custom Rod show
Most every Performance parts store and Performance machine shop in the USA
NARA and IHRA events
NASCAR
And virtually any Harley Davidson mechanic or factory Technician will recomend them
I could go on...
Even if you only looked to see you will find more often then not people will use a magnetic drain plug.
Lets also not forget they come OEM in the transmission pan of most MAZDA and FORDs manufactured now. Yup an ATX has the same type of lubrication system flow as the engine.
Here is one of many part number from MAZDA
Automatic Transmission Oil Pan Magnet - Mazda (F401-17-121)
The designers of the transmission reasonably expected the internal ferrous metal parts to shed fine pieces during the useful life of the transmission and wanted to capture them, to keep them out of the hydraulic circuits and bearings.
BTW I use externally mounted hose magnets on my transmission input just after the Oberg oil filter from the externally mounted oil pump to my $6000 custom one off 6 speed BMW/MINI manual. And both my engine and transmission pans have a DIMPLE Magnetic drain plug to boot! LOL
you will find more using a magnetic drain plug and not concern about EMPIRICAL DAT of their performance only the cheap extra insurance to pull contaminates of metal flakes (not aluminum) from the engine oil missed by the filter.
I think I have demonstrated with some positive and compelling supporting information for using them?
Hey if you can't agree then go with the "BLING" aspect a DIMPLE looks BOSS FUNCTIONAL! LOL
Every automatic transmission I've ever cracked open (American only so far) has had a magnet or two
in the pan and all of them had a layer of crud (metallic) on them. I've seem several engine drain plugs,
with magnets, with some varying amounts of material collected on them.
Additionally, that first oil change, if you looked in/at the drain pan in the sunlight, you'll see
shiny bits, real small particles, mostly of a metallic nature.
So, I'm all for them. Not a great expense and the warm comfort feeling.
Granted it has been years, but the last time I worked on a Harley, it didn't have an oil filter; different argument entirely. As for automatic transmissions, once again, different argument; the filters in automatics are primarily responsible for filtering out the worn clutch material, the magnet is there to catch the ferrous metals which naturally wear away in a transmission. Like it or don't, believe it or not, if a magnet would do good in an engine, the manufacturers would have put one there just like they do in automatic transmissions.
You cannot prove a positive with a negative. Please offer any proof you can think of which indicates magnetic drain plugs are anything but snake oil.
Please offer any evidence that using magnetic drain plugs will do any harm. It's silly to argue against using them if there is no downside... and we're talking quality products like Dimples here that are not known for shearing off.
The simple fact is, they can and likely will pick up ferrous metal particles, if there are any present. If none are present, no harm, no foul. The only thing you've lost is a few bucks out of your pocket. However, IF there are I'd be darn glad if the magnet managed to keep them from circulating in my engine. THAT sir, or ma'am, is the bottom line!
First ...those members responding have any of you responding have even used a magnetic drain plug of any kind?. If so can you actually tell me what you saw after installing it and changing the oil miles later.
LOL.....I guess the next time I do an oil change I will show you all what does not get caught in the oil filter. My 2018 Mazda 3 get it oil change every 3ooo miles and every other change I have an oil sample done. I get a near perfect oil analysis every time. I have a few for my MAZDA You can't argue empirical DATA. Oh and I ordered one for my up coming TRANSMISSION service as well. LOL I just spoke with Eric the new owner of DIMPLE on Friday. We Racer's and Professional Performance Builders (like myself) have been using magnets in pans, transmission and even a few other places on an engine for decades and have IMHO help reduce problems. I have even used oil filter magnets before.
Oh I should also include while helping my friend doing a maintenance service before an up coming air show a couple years ago on his F4U he purchased and we installed a DIMPLE drain plug on his oil Pan
As for breaking them off...well you get what you pay for. If you buy the cheap junk drain plugs painted to look like anodized metal then sure they will break. DIMPLE magnets will NOT break even if you over torque it. You are more likely to strip the thread long before you break a DIMPLE drain plug!!! Conrad16.5 Please show me where you obtained your information so I can "MYTH" it out! LOL
This is another ridicules thread having to debate about a drain plug. If you you go back to the beginning it was simply ask WHERE TO GET AN OIL DRAIN PLUG!!!!!!
At this point I have been the only member that at least answered the question! LOL
Of course you get a perfect oil analysis every time! What else would you get after changing your oil every 3k miles?
What's with the WD40? I suppose you're going to tell me that you're 'washing' out the particles left over in the bottom of the pan that didn't drain? I thought that your magnets would take care of that? You're not worried about the solvents in WD40?
As for you busting any myths about mag drain plugs shearing off after being over torqued? It's not a myth. Feel free to search for this on any TDI forum.
I've used mag drain plugs in the past. In fact, I still have two on my motorcycle and two on my pick-up. And yes, early on in the vehicles lives, the mag plug did pick up a 'slurry' of ferrous particles. So fine as to be more like mud than anything else. Not worth it. IMHO YMMV
Of course you get a perfect oil analysis every time! What else would you get after changing your oil every 3k miles?
What's with the WD40? I suppose you're going to tell me that you're 'washing' out the particles left over in the bottom of the pan that didn't drain? I thought that your magnets would take care of that? You're not worried about the solvents in WD40?
As for you busting any myths about mag drain plugs shearing off after being over torqued? It's not a myth. Feel free to search for this on any TDI forum.
I've used mag drain plugs in the past. In fact, I still have two on my motorcycle and two on my pick-up. And yes, early on in the vehicles lives, the mag plug did pick up a 'slurry' of ferrous particles. So fine as to be more like mud than anything else. Not worth it. IMHO YMMV
I should have quoted you separate. I was not questioning your good response on this thread sorry if it seemed that way only supporting that cheap drain plug will break.Otherwise IMO better quality drain plugs should not be included in breaking and that is what I would call a MYTH. Besides given the number manufactured even the cheap quality drain plug don't have a high instance of breakage. I ordered a couple to modify and had one NIB defective so I do know very well that those cheap drain plugs are problematic. The reports of breaking were from mostly being "over-torqued".
The WD40 is sprayed into the pan to completely clean the pan and remove all old oil. The solvent are drained. I know this because any reaming would have shown on the dozens of oil analysis I have done over the years. The analysis is very capable of even showing the anti seize and break in lubricants I have used on new engines. Besides what do you think is in many oil additives and conditioners called proprietary ingredients?hehehe! On older very high mileage engine I have I have cleaned the internal by draining the oil and refilling with at least 30% ATF fluid and running them up to temperature for about 15 20 minutes and then draining them. Sometimes repeating the process until the oil drains semi clear. On all my past 2 stroke Motorcycle engine this was a routine practice. Especially on me RG500 and CR250 which both contaminated the oil constantly.
As for the oil results it only takes a few hundred miles to get changes in what may be in oil and can be analyzed. You owning motorcycle rightly know that most will contaminate the oil very quickly in the crankcase due from combustion contamination which is why the oil turn dark quickly. Not that the oil is in any way bad , but for many that often think the color indicates the condition of oil health is often incorrect.
If you like I can post all 3 of the analysis on my MAZDA (purchased new with 5 miles on odometer in 2018) from the first to the last so you can see for yourself all the crap that is in the engine NEW and why I always suggest not to wait for the recommend first oil change service but to do it much sooner?
In the 80's every engine I built for customers using them for Performance competition was given a magnet drain plug a bottle of MOROSO Ceramic Engine seal a case of engine oil, 2 oil filters along with a simple to follow use and break in procedure. At a price tag of 8-15K per engine I did not want a problem due to my machining or assembly work. Most of the higher end engines my customers also paid for a run in and Engine Dyno sheet showing the engine power output at the crank. So I was able to do the first oil drain and inspection of the oil. I also removed the pan for a complete visual inspection of the bottom end which.
I do want to add that has nothing to do with any of your comments and responses on this thread but from another member...There has in fact been Auto manufactures that did have magnets in the oil pan sum right from the factory!
Of course you get a perfect oil analysis every time! What else would you get after changing your oil every 3k miles?
No not really!
I do have it if you would like to see. It is what most everyone's would look like on a new factory engine during the first few thousand mile. Personally I did not want all that interesting things left in my new engine oil for what the factory recommend to do the first oil service.
The last one was finally good.
Read the first line in the analysis...
hmmm... looks like the Mazda Oil Filter is not doing it job? LOL
07-05-2020, 12:36 PM
