My CX5 was laid up for about 3 weeks under a cover but it started up ok and we used it for a few days, took it for a good valet including the engine compartment cleanup, and then covered it over again while we used our second car.
Yesterday after about 2 weeks none-use we swapped the 2 cars over and when I started up the Mazda I had warning message on the dash......There is a malfunction in the battery management system.....and the engine warning triangle symbol is permanently illuminated.
The car started up OK and I took it for a 30 minute test drive. It drove normally.

The i-stop indicator light (I always turn the i-stop function OFF) is yellow and flashing also and beeps twice if you press it's on-off button!
I tried removing and cleaning the battery terminals just in case some car valet moisture/solvents had contaminated the connections. No change.
I've now put the battery onto my smart-battery charger to see what results I get.

There are NO Mazda dealers anywhere near me. I live in a VERY remote island province of Philippines and it's practically IMPOSSIBLE to take it to a dealer (it would cost me $1000 in ferries and hotels, and about 8 days there and back). What can I check on my own? Any ideas???

 

OK I've learned through the internet that Mazda cars using the 'i-stop' fuel saving feature require a special DEEP CYCLE battery. This type of battery available though my local Motolite battery supplier costs about Peso 14,000.
Although the battery in the car is only 11 months old, it is just a STANDARD battery costing Peso 5000!!!
Could this be the cause of my problems? That the battery, although having enough power to start the car after a 3 week then 2 week layover, has in fact discharged somewhat and the vehicle's sensitive electronics are picking up this voltage drop? Does this seem logical?
At the moment I have the car on a smart charger.

 

Standard car batteries don't last very long in i-stop vehicles, they don't have the capacity or design characteristics required.

 

So this morning I started the car for the school run and the warning light was still on.
When i got home I put the battery on charge again but about 1 hour later had to disconnect.
when I started the car again NO WARNING LIGHT!
I’m assuming the school run and the quick charging boost had topped up the battery enough to reset everything.
im going to run for a few days and monitor the situation, but obviously I’m hoping this has cured the immediate problem.
long term i need to put the correct DEEP CYCLE battery into the car though.

 

Not deep cycle. For petrol variants you need a Q85 battery. For Diesels its a T110 battery.

 

OK......MAJOR problem now.......

My dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree. Main ABS warning light. Traction Control warning light. iStop light. Tyre Pressure warning light.... All PERMANENTLY illuminated and won't go off.
They ALL came on at the same time (which leads me to believe it is a software problem and in fact nothing actually wrong with any of the systems).
Again I got the car back home (everything is working ok....Brakes / Tyres inflated correctly etc.) and again charged the battery. BUT even with a fully charged battery they are STILL all illuminated!
Is there any secret way I can get them to reset? (At the moment I've disconnected the battery while I charge it, HOPING that a 24 hour period without power may 'force' the system to auto-reset intself)
Is it SAFE to use the car??? (Is there ANY way a software problem could over-ride the physical operation of the brakes for example?)
Any ideas.....HELP!

 

You will need to connect a scan tool to clear codes.

 

I logged on today to ask that very question. The cost of buying one of these tools is MINUSCULE compared to the cost of taking it to a dealer, but I didn't know if these warning-light functions were 'protected' and dealer-only serviceable !

 

Practically any scan tool can clear codes. Obviously, if there is a problem in the system, the codes wil return.

 

You didn't say how long you drove the car after the under hood cleaning. I'm guessing if you drove it straight home and covered it, after two weeks some moisture worked it's way into one of more wire connectors, triggering the engine codes. If the car has been driving fine, clearing the codes should solve the problem. I'd advise using the car for two or three days after a major underhood cleaning to let engine heat dry everything thoroughly.

I had an oil change outfit trigger code problems after a ham fisted guy knocked a mass airlfow sensor connector around. (He was trying to prove I needed an air cleaner element.) I was on vacation and found a dealer who cleared the code and saw the partially uncoupled sensor. This was in a Subaru Outback, but an emission code will usually trigger a lot of lights in most cars.