More rumors.....
well aside from the information source, being a bit careless telling you that kind of information, not sure why a Briggs and Straton valve stem seal would work (I am being facetious) on any Mazda engine if the size was correct. Thats the thing there are really on a few different types of vale stem seals, and they will technically work on any engine depending of size of the valve stem and the seat being used. So I am a little dubious about that answer!
I have not looked up any Mazda OEM valves for the various engines in question and then tried to find none OEM replacement that I can get the stem size to confirm how much if any differences in stem size there may be . But my guess if there is any it would be more than a slight measurement that would have resulted in more then only a small oiling problems as reported thus far on any Mazda forum had they been in fact mixed up and installed on the wrong valve trains. What we have is another one of those darn near impossible assembly scenarios at Mazda. I am pretty sure the quality control for the parts is pretty good and would have been caught at production level quickly had there been some form of mixed up parts of this type? See engine assembly process checks, balances and inspections for MAZDA

When I build a Performance engine I don't go by application of what the engine is I go by the measurements only and what the type of machining I did on the spring seat. If it is a stock engine than naturally, I just order as per the engine type but also the valve stem diameter.


These are basically the only types of seal and the rest is sizing. Remember if you understand this aspect of an engine using the wrong size valve stem seal in the case of speculation from MAZDA there would have been oil consumption and smoke from exhaust from day one, mile one of the engine. It would have also been an easy problem to have found as well.

 

Just an FYI the few that MAZDA dealers performing the so called "FIX"...service not one report of actually measuring the seals in question or giving absolute information of correctness or other wise pertaining to the parts removed for replacement that I am aware of reading yet??. This was having t do with the part NOT what the outcome results was! I choose my words clearly!

 

Took the car to the dealer this morning and got it back later in the afternoon. They replaced 8 exhaust valve seals, and a AC gasket. I think there was a part number on the work order but I'll have to look that up in the morning. I'll let you guys know how the car behaves in the next few months.

 

The part number would be interesting. As well keeping us informed as to your outcome. Too bad they would not give you one of the seals they removed. Interesting that they would not include as a curtesy a new set of spark plugs? You might want to pull the easiest to get removed for your level of experience and take several good pictures of one before you get to many miles on your engine with the new seals? The last thing I would also do is to wipe very clean the first 6-8 inches inside the tail pipe. Also take pictures after to clean it.
You can monitor the oil, but I would say unless it goes ONLY below the lower line on the dip stick anything else is subjective to how it was checked?

 

Not a bad idea, I'll have to wait for the weather to get nicer out to check the plugs. Part numbers is from a Canadian dealership : PY8W-10-1F5, ahh looks like they mislabeled the other gasket they replaced on the work order, its actually the valve cover gasket which makes sense.

 

Those seals are not revised that I can see? Interesting as this whole oil consumption thing is getting?

If you wait too long (couple hundred miles) to do a plug visual inspection, we will not be able to see a before and then a few thousand miles later comparison. If the new replacement seals corrected the oil problem the sparkplug will start to self clean.

 

OK, I'll bit. WHY would they change the EXHAUST valve seals? I'd understand and assume that they'd change the
intake seals as there is a vacuum draw in that area.

 

Nothing has been posted by Mazda exactly detailing the service having to do with possible oil seals.

You other comment is not accurate how an engine works.

And nothing has been posted that it corrected the problem and what EXACTLY was the part or parts causing the problem.

Please stop now unless you go learn exactly how a gasoline and specifically a DI (direct injected) engine works. And then how to machine and assemble a engine specially all the process having to do with the head. All the way back to basics. And I do mean basics.

 

In what way, Oh great guru?
Oil that gets past the oil seals is drawn into the intake by a vacuum (how ever slight) during the intake stroke.
The exhaust side doesn't have the 'draw'; if anything, the exhaust would tend to 'push' any oil back out of the valve stem
area.
I am familiar with how an engine works, FYI.

 

*Yes that quote is correct... "You other comment is not accurate how an engine works." but I should have added limited as well.
Yes that quote is correct... "You other comment is not accurate how an engine works." but I should have added limited as well.

Being familiar does not mean accurate and more limited... *see my starting response to this ...
Once again, I am not going into a long-drawn-out debate or for the matter teaching machining... LOL
I will add because it appears you do have very limited and seemingly very basic engine operation information to study how camshafts works. And then how the Skyactiv camshafts relate to the intake charge and the compression ratio.
Keep in mind that I have my own performance camshafts I designed thier specification and currently running in my 2018 2.5 skyactiv engine. That said I am very a wear more so than most about valve stem "seals" with a Mazda newer engine LOL
Try your fishing responses on another member cuzz I am not biting.

How about you wait and see if can post an update and perhaps if he is able to post a little observation about what I responded to him about?


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