Other than the grin on your face, there should be nothing to worry about. Get the seat and other do*dads set to you and yours,
install GPS ($50) if you wish and enjoy.
Good oil changed at 5000 miles you are good to go.
Plenty of STUFF available on e-bay, hood struts for example, to keep you busy.

My 2¢

 

Cops with radar

 

Hahahahaha definitely gonna continue looking lmao

 

I just read thru the tsb. How incredibly detailed. The fancy valve spring compression assembly and related tools and gauges are impressive. I can see why the first few will take extra time figuring out all of the details. In my mechanical days, the directions would have been “remove/relocate all wiring, brackets and accessories, then remove the valve cover”. At the end it would have been “reinstall valve cover, reinstall/reconnect all items removed in step one”. Interesting.

 

Many FSM are that way still. TSBs are many times different from service guides from FSM and say like ALL Data because of the direct service needed at times beyond a FSM .

 

The only thing to look out for as far as I have read is the low oil warning light between oil changes. You likely won't notice anything else from the driver's seat. Nobody has posted about performance issues. In my 21 I lose no oil at all on the dipstick between 5k oil changes.

 

An update on my repair: After dropping my car off at the dealership, I was given a loaner for a week while my repair was in progress. The repair itself only took a day but I was without my car for a week because the dealer had to wait for parts to arrive.

I do my own oil changes and was not requested to provide receipts or anything of the sort to convince them to start the repair. It happened so I had just changed the oil 2 days before..guess that's what reminded me to go in to the dealer to get this done without further delay. Low oil light hadnt been on for the past ~3500 miles.
The master tech simply put on the work order that he found "Oil level low by one quart, confirmed TSB repairs needed, changed valve seals." The tech mentioned that he found oil was low to justify the repair authorization...it wasn't low at the time I dropped the car off.

​​One funny thing to mention is that I have some minor mods on my car like lowering springs, a strut tower brace, hood struts, etc. and once the Tech popped my hood open, he said the strut tower brace and hood struts need to be removed before he proceeds with the valve seal repair. They would charge me an hour of labor for that ($145) or I could remove my brace and hood struts myself. They were kind enough to let me remove the parts in the dealership parking lot myself lol. I believe they have to remove the windsield wiper cowl for the special tool they use for this job and the strut tower brace was in the way.

I've picked up my car now and looks like they drove it ~10 miles to verify everything is good. I will be keeping a close eye on my oil levels but confident the issue is resolved.

 

The strut tower brace I get, but why the hood struts? It seems like they would have been appreciated vs the prop rod.

 

By following the TSB procedure, the struts may get in the way in the way. I realize it ridiculous but thats the way it is when TSB are being followed. I recommend that anyone still under warranty when having to go to dealer for warranty work on the running gear to remove all the aftermarket parts even if they are for looks. Few exceptions. They all get noted to your VIN information.

 

Oil light popped back on at 11230 miles. Like clockwork every 4600 miles. Taking it in to the dealership to see what they say.