Returning to CX-5 Auto Transmissions, "lifetime trans fluid" is a completely ridiculous concept. I mean the stuff turns black after XX miles and is carrying all kinds of debris, how could it be good for a lifetime? Whose lifetime? A mosquito? Please don't even think about it, unless you plan to sell it (irresponsibly) and stick someone else with a deteriorating transmission. In fact, there are NO fluids in a Car that are lifetime, although Mazda manual claims the coolant is good for 10 years, I believe? Certainly you need to bleed brake fluid, and I don't believe there is power steering fluid. Gear oil in rear differential and front transfer case needs change as well.

But here are a few trans questions both general and CX-5:

1. There is a dispute about changing the strainer/filter on Mazda automatic. Some people say it
has a magnet as part of the strainer assembly, some say bullsh_t, the magnet is on the pan. I don't
want to start an endless argument but quick opinions on dropping the pan and changing the strainer/filter? Every change? Every other change? Never?

2. Many people insist you need to change the fluid two-three times with expensive fresh fluid to get all the dirty fluid out of the torque converter. Aside from being cheap, I really don't like the idea of using brand new expensive Mazda trans fluid to swish around the tranny two- three times and spit it out. I mean it is not CVS mouthwash. Thoughts?

3. Sorry. "Flushing". Many people say NEVER flush, drain and refill. MANY insist as much. Thoughts?

4. FINALLY, I assume using a vacuum pump run down the dipstick hole will NOT evacuate the torque converter? True? I believe it is true but can someone confirm?

I don't expect anyone to answer ALL these questions or express opinions on all.

If anyone is willing to contribute thoughts, I thank you . RMV

 

I am sorry Callisto. I did not see your post. You and Mr. Wendt answered a number of my questions.

Very sorry. Thank you. I will carefully review what you put up. Best, Reuben

 

Callisto: Did you ENTIRELY change the tranny pan? Was it dented or something? You change the pan entirely every time?

There was a black one in your pics at first and then a white one at the end?

Also, I am told there is no traditional gasket on Mazda CX pan, just silicon seal? Correct?

 

OK. You indicate you can use gasket, or silicon seal, or both. Got it.

Sorry. I should read before writing. Apologies. Reuben

 

ASE
______________________________________________

 

Yes I had one of my new MAZDA pans powder coated white. I was in the process of making a deep pan for my Mazda and as with most of many my project I get distracted or simply procrastinate on them.
I know I hate to bring this up on forums and thread but I actually engineer and develop Performance parts for many platforms for a partial living since around the late 70's. MAZDA is not one at this time. I will have a deep pan for my own MAZDA likely this summer. I like extra oil capacity as well having AN fitting to use cooler and also addition senders for monitoring temperatures.

Below is one I developed for another platform. My Madza will be similar but not as deep because of ground clearance concerns.

 

I think to save any debate it really up to the person who is performing the work which they prefer to use. I never commit to one or the other. There are too many variables and also my mode for the day! lol

 

Callisto: Thank you for your time and wisdom in your response. Sorry to throw so many questions out there.

On the inline filter, I used that on my previous 2008 Chevy. That is in ADDITION to a fluid change and change of regular Tranny filter.
It definitely had magnet in it (that was the main selling point) and filtering medium. To install, had to cut one of the lines between radiator and
tranny (return line) and install in middle of cut line. So, I had two magnets and filters going. A year later or less, the lines rotted out/cracked
(not on account of the filter), either age, or salty water in winter coming up underneath (perhaps) and when I put in new lines did not feel like
cutting the brand new lines and installing another in-line filter, so that was my experience with in-line filters. Worked fine as far as I can tell.
I did not cut open the in-line filter to see what had accumulated on the magnet when I tossed it. I did check out the pan magnet when dropping pan.

The adapter for a full flush is discussed elsewhere on this forum, you indicated? Thank you again. And for the pic of the inline filter with my name.

Reuben

 

That is a BEAUTIFUL tranny pan. Amazing! It is an honor to have a yellow stickie/sticky with my name attached to it.

One thing on the cooler lines. Maybe a dumb question: What pressure will circulate the fluid through the one line and then back

through the other? Won't the pressure in the pan tend to push the fluid towards both connections? And thus make circulation

to the cooler difficult? There must be something else there I am missing. Best, Reuben

 

The AN fitting is for the addition of a remote cooler (and possible spin on filter) The fluid will circulate going through the pan. Normally fluid is picked up at the filter and circulated in the transmission. The fluid pressure is dependent on the operating speed of the transmission fluid pump that will range from a low 30psi (engine idle) to over 90+psi (engine WOT) in some models. Depending on the length of line/hose and ID there is always a slight pressure drop. This can be mathematically calculated and technically you can determine the maximum length and OD before you exceed safe operating perimeters of the transmission fluid. I have never had that issue yet.