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Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual: Ion SensorMazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual / Engine / Control / Ion Sensor Purpose/Function Detects ion generation in the combustion chamber for detecting pre-ignition. Detects ions which occur due to fuel combustion as current by applying bias voltage to the spark plug, which is amplified in the ignition coil internal circuit and input to the PCM. Construction Built into the ignition coil. Operation Accumulates the secondary current of the ignition coil in bias condenser (1) and detects ion current (2) by applying the bias voltage to the spark plug. Pulls in current (4) increased by current amplification circuit (3) to the ignition coil from the PCM. The PCM measures/converts the current sent to the ignition coil and monitors. Ion generation mechanism Ions are generated based on: fuel combustion = chemical reaction / disassociation. The generated negative ions move to the center electrode of the spark plug to which bias voltage is applied, positive ions move to the grounded engine wall surface, and then current flows from the spark plug to the ignition coil. Fail-safe Function not equipped. Ion Sensor InspectionDTC Inspection 1. Connect the M-MDS to the DLC?2. 2. Perform the DTC inspection using the M-MDS.. If any DTC related to the ignition coil/ion sensor is present, repair the malfunctioning ...
Another thing I thought of after you mentioned the 4 wire coils is:
The wires running to the coil packs for power and ground are rather anemic. Could you run heavier guage wire for power and ground to lessen the voltage drop at the coil, this giving you more voltage on the secondary winding.
Have you ever measured the input voltage at the coils when the car is at high RPM? There might be a extra 500 to 1000 rpm available?
Another option might be to buy a small DC to DC inverter and run the coils at 15 to 16 VDC to get a higher secondary voltage.
Maybe a voltage booster like this would allow the stock coils to go higher in RPM. Not sure what that would do to the ION detection circuitry in the stock coil though.
SPARKMAX IGNITION SYSTEM VOLTAGE BOOSTER. INCREASES SPARK OUTPUT ON ANY VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A SINGLE OR MULTIPLE IGNITION COILS (COIL-ON-PLUG) - ADJUSTABLE FROM 14.5 TO 31 VOLTS. UNIVERSAL SINGLE OUTPUT (ACTIVATION - MAF-MAP-TPS OR GROUND INCLUDES EXT PRESSURE SWITCH).
The ICE 2216 Voltage Booster complements any inductive, sequential fire/wasted spark, multi coil ignition systems. It takes an input of 10 – 15 volts and produces a steady output of 16 volts to the main power cable supplying the multi coilsMaximum rated output current is 15 amps continuous or 20 amps for 30 seconds.
Ok as far as I can see the diagnostic for the ion sensor seems to be in the knock sensor values. Couldn't tell you much more then that as I said I don't see them in the ECU PIDS only knock sensor i.e. knock cly #1 ,#2, 3 etc. . I can tell you that on the scope the values are only under knock sensor not ion. Unless they are simply run together?
As for increasing the voltage to the coil, it would not affect the coil output at higher engine speeds. Electricity is relatively slow, and you can't force physics. It is the raise time or the time a coil regenerates to produce the energy. So the main thing is to make sure you have a good voltage supping the coils the interior RPM range of the engine. I do run similar voltage box (now discontinued ACCEL) to increase the primary supplied voltage to the coils on one of my cars. The wire diameter size for any electronics is related to the voltage and ohm demand. Installing larger wires on coils is not necessary if quality wire and connectors are used or you upgrade the components. And larger power leads to a coil will not change the raise time of a coil.
On my 2018 Mazda stock ignition, after close to 4000rpm the raise time starts to fall off at a declining rate as engine RPM increases. Not much more I can tell you beyond this about coils and the ignition system for improving it. It is one area that cost a lot should be considered for maximum performance, but more if you are competing in Drag Racing or a road Track that WOT on long straights is intended?
The use of E85 could change many aspects of reading Data logging regarding how the knock values are. However, as I said I don't use nor tune ECU for E85 so IDK.
In other countries they advertise the 2.5 L skyactiv as having 14 to 1 compression ratio, but in the United States they say it has a 13 to 1 compression ratio.
Do you know what Mazda did to lower the compression ratio for the US spec 2.5 l? Do they have a thicker head gasket? Different pistons? Different deck height? Or were they able to lower the compression with the cam timing?
if they were able to do it with the intake cam timing, is the compression ratio change just software, or is it different cams, or different phasers that have more or different travel?
I guess what I'm really asking is there a OEM Mazda way to get your compression ratio back to 14 to 1?
It is in the ECU programing. The fuel formula requirements like here in the USA and other countries are much stricter as are the emission requirements.
The none USA market ECU program or update is not available here in the USA (black market vehicles?) even for dealerships so I can't even get one just to open it up and see what perimeters they changed.
So unless you get an ECU from say the UK and willing to take the chance to plug it into your Mazda and then have someone install a ECU performance program calibration device do a DATA logging (i.e. versa Tunner) and explore all the possible PIDS ? If not it is sort of a mute subject. That is to say unless there is a member that say... installed the versa tune in the UK and willing to comment about what they may have found they thought was a different programing then a USA model Mazda?
And to what end? Will it do anything to improve a USA running in federal gas regulation, not likely will it make more useable power gains to justify all the work? IMHO NOPE!!
What is the part number of the cooler spark plugs you and Callisto are using?
You Don't just use any colder of hotter spark plug from anyone's advise unless you do a spark plug power and pull reading FIRST. Thats why I did not post the part number or brand.
This is done by installing a new or completely cleaned (glass beaded) spark plug set. Then bringing the engine to the operating top range (red line) and while holding that throttle pedal position turn off the ignition and safely pull to the side of the road. Then when your are able to remove a spark plug without getting burned you can read what the spark plug is "REALLY" doing.
Those spark plug burn charts that are posted all over the internet are over 75 years old rolmao. Once you change your throttle the ECU changes the AFRs and that will change the what you see on the spark plug. If you let the engine idle even for a few seconds that also changes the spark plug readings.
Spak plug gap recommendation are a little different but they still require testing and math to know the optimal gap to use for every application even with a completely stock engine. Thats is one reason why even in Factory Service Manuals they give recommended spark plug gaps and not absolute measurements.
And lastly is any exotic fuels other then everyday gasoline are used you need to establish base line normal reading before doing and spark plug changes. This means E85 does change how spark plugs look comparing them to gasoline.
03-12-2023, 08:54 PM
