I am just fact finding, and not throwing anyone under the bus. I have been reading dipsticks for a long time, from single cylinder gas engines to 1500kw diesel gen sets. I just wanted a reality check after I was told that I was not seeing what I was seeing. And, I still see pretty well. But I also know that there is always someone that knows something that I don’t know.

Thanks to all for your input! I suspect I will be back here again. Maybe we can talk about spark plugs? The manual says change at 40k. The “authority” says change at 60k-75k. They told me that when I picked up my 3yr supply of oil drain plug crush washers. I don’t want to confuse the ion sensors in my ignition coils, so want to do it right!

And Lobstah is ahead with 10 points! Points are redeemable for a hearty “good job” message at your request…

 

^^^ ^^^

Keep in mind that the maintenance scheduling is predominantly set by auto manufactures (whom you call authority) for warranty purposes.
Oscilloscopes don't lie and the results can not be altered. Spark Plugs degrade much sooner then the "authorities" service scheduling and while so many claim ridicules miles(90-100k+) miles of use with no negative results, are also one that do not actually diagnostically check the performance levels of their engines. Also unless some are running high RPM ranges with their engines or competitive events the need for extreme high tech spark plugs are not really necessary and even then likely not needed?
The ion sensors they be "BLACK MAGIC" lol and yet determined supportively beneficial? I just spent a few hours last week trying to see if I could get any registering results on the scope by changing a few input aspects increasing pulse resistance and NOTHING showed changing anything in the ECU? In fact there is no PID for data logging the ECU information or availability to change operating perimeters? I am presently working with one of the leading performance aftermarket manufactures that will be offering replacements for MAZDA coils hopefully this year? And it has nothing to do with MAZDA coil specifications except for the mounting tab. LOL
To be clear I am sure that somewhere some Auto elctrical engineer has a technical paper on them I have not yet come across to debunk some of my testing and testing . BTW my current testing was not controlled not did I set up the noram 5 steps of the scientific method . It was just off the cuff looking into getting a little base line information to consider how important or not ion coils are?

 

I'll save up the points for whenever my dipstick reads overfull.
I should clarify my vehicle dipstick; my old geezer dipstick is overfilled on a daily basis.
And the time it is overfilled the most is usually about 2am requiring the expertise of an American Standard fixture.

 

I have made oscilloscopes not tell the truth, but that was usually because I set them up wrong. I will probably change the plugs at the interval specified in the owners manual. I have more confidence in the people who designed and built the car than I do the people primarily concerned with selling more of them. Have had careers in both engineering and sales, so think that I can speak from experience.

I will make no further comment about your dipstick comments, because I don’t know what it takes to get banned here and I don't want to find out. At least for now

 

That would be an honest assignment. I wish more that understood about DYNO testing and the people that set them up would make comments like that?
Not really sure how to take the last part of your response??? You started the thread with a question received several answers from members and apparently choose the best answer you wanted to read that supports your ideas and beliefs and then post you have engineering experience and based on that will choose the Auto manufacture service scheduling (often times revised on many platforms) for some parts like spark plugs? I wonder why you even asked any of these questions if you already have your mind set that the FSM (factory service Manual) is the written word to follow empirically speaking that is?
BTW technically speaking FORD has a system I engineered and developed so I guess that makes me one of those that actually builds the cars.
Also to ground up restorations, KIT Cars and Race cars get included?

Banning members generally is done from those that verbally abusive by calling other members offensive derogatory names. On this forum we even put up with trolls. But if you want more details ask the Moderator or the Administration.

 

I speak of my personal sump pan (bladder) measuring device, at my age it serves no other purpose
My personal preference for the American Standard by no means indicates that a Kohler, Toto or Sterling or the like wouldn't suffice as the proper flushing tool.

 

[QUOTE=Scout7;214122I will make no further comment about your dipstick comments, because I don’t know what it takes to get banned here and I don't want to find out. At least for now[/QUOTE]


Boy did I miss read and interpret what Scout7 was posting........ aren't I the jerk!?
My apologies Scout7...

 

I asked a question about oil level on the dipstick. I thought it was high. Plainly stated that on at least one occasion, maybe more. Not motivated enough to read it over again. Most others seemed to think so too. Thank you. (Tho, I have moved on from American Standard to Toto.)

The only answer that would have made me doubt myself was “That oil level is fine, there is documentation that supports it for XXXX reason, you can find it here…”. Didn’t happen.

Spark plugs. Another area of discrepancy between the “authority” and the operator manual. Threw that out there. So far, no comments that indicated it was a good idea to run them longer than recommended in the FOM (Factory Operators Manual). Or less, for that matter. Really just wanting to see if anyone with experience had a different opinion. This car is new to me, and I want to learn about it. My last Mazda had rotors. And points. And funny spark plugs.

I have always considered the FSM to be the best and safest source of information. Most particularly when dealing with equipment used in critical applications. Of course there are changes, or different opinions about what is best. I was asking for any changes and/or opinions.

Callisto, you didn’t design the cam phasers in my 3.5 eco boost, did you?

The reference to being banned was tongue in cheek, I was not going to go further down the road regarding the alternate type of dipstick that was talked about.

This is kind of a fun group!

 

Spark plugs and most anything about them are debatable among most DIY and "mechanics" on forums.
You can't even get correct answers how to install them. Let alone anyone that has real experience testing and choosing them outside the OE information what and how to use them
Most people don't know how to read them correctly and even less know how to gap them correctly. I still see even some vendors posting those 75 year old how to read a spark plug charts. LOL So asking on a forum full of DIY recommendations your are likely to get the majority answers of "NGK" don't use anti size and what the auto manufactures shows to use. LOL

Spark plugs are simple and inexpensive and most cases the easiest thing anyone that can turn a wrench can change and make noticeable differences in the engine overall performance.

I didn't answer to in depth because if you look on this forum I have spent likely hours posting in several threads about them. Even I get tired of repeating the same thing and having the same debates from people as I mentioned in the first 4 lines

I am not sure but it does seem like you might be new to forums. I recommend that you look into members that you think have good information and see what threads they may have started and threads they have participated on. You can get a better idea about whom on forums might actually have better experience or a Super DIY and maybe actually a professional in the automotive industry?

My recommendation just for you is to change your spark plugs when your engine has broken in or sooner at about 15k miles and then about every 15k miles or sooner thereafter. To keep it simple NGK and yes use a small amount of anti sieze on the threads and follow exactly what the NGK box says about torquing them.
Now watch the debate fun!

As for Mazda and rotary engines been down that road and had a hand ported factory engine. Ran like a bee on a rampage. It was a short-lived experience and did not interest me much more than a month or two in the late 70's.

 

Welcome aboard Scout7
Spark plugs, tires and oil.
Three topics that can, and have, left vehicle forums completely destroyed or but a mere hollow burned out shell of their former selves.
It takes great diplomatic experience to broach these topics.
Which is something generally lacking in users of any forum
And yet, as you have readily seen, we still stand ready to inundate new members with our personal advice.