Hi everyone, sorry in advance for taking up time with such a pedantic question. My rear passenger window rolls up and down just fine, maybe a little slow but it's got 150k miles on it. However, once it's rolled all the way up it slips back down about an inch (1 inch/ 2.5 cm), maybe a little more. There is no grinding or clicking sound from the motor. Is this simply a regulator issue? Could it just be the stop clasps on the cable have slipped?

 

Lower the glass. Clean & lube the tracks/rubbers, also clean the glass edges where it touchs the sides & top rubber seal. Try raising the glass & see what happens.

 

So, I didn't do what you said. I installed a new regulator and the problem persists. I'll try your idea sometime this week. I'll get back to you then.

 

Sounds like faulty pinch protection mechanism.

 

So I replaced the regulator, greased the side rails, replaced the motor and the problem persisted. There are two bolts that hold the regulator rail in place. These had ripped through the interior panel so i didn't even notice when it came to install the new regulator. Yes, I thought the regulator was only supposed to be attached to the motor and nowhere else. So i ordered a replacement for the interior panel, installed it, attache the regulator how it's supposed to be attached, and the problem was solved. Just for anyone who has this problem again

 

Do you have photos of this, by chance? I suddenly have a similar problem on my 2014 passenger rear window. Seems like a simple fix, but I wouldn’t mind some more detail before I pull my doorcard to get a look.

 

Don’t expect an answer, the OP hasn’t been back to the forum in two years….

 

Fair enough, ha ha. Found the thread addressing my issue & didn’t want to start a duplicate one, especially for my first post on a new forum.

 

Just in case anybody has any further questions about fixing this window issue- the fasteners I’ve circled in red are where the window regulator fastens from behind. This entire plastic insert is found behind the door panel and bolts directly to the metal door sub assembly. The plastic that surrounds these 2 bolts crumbles and breaks, leaving the bolts to pull through the plastic, which subsequently leaves the window regulator without the structure against which it needs to push to fully seat the window in the up position.

You’ll need to remove the outer door panel, disconnect 2 harness plugs, remove the door handle, remove the power window motor(3 bolts, all 10mm), remove about 8 10mm bolts that hold the insert to the door, remove 2 10mm bolts that once attached the regulator to the insert. You will also need to remove about 10 white nylon pop rivets from the door and insert them back into the slots on the back the door panel. If you don’t do this, your door panel will not secure properly. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

Pro tip: you may want a second set of hands to prevent the window from sliding down and to manipulate the window regulator bolts through the new plastic insert. If you have no one to help, grab one of the cheap plastic dent removal suction cup pullers from Harbor Freight. You can affix the suction cup to the glass wherever needed while the suction cup will rest against the door, keeping the glass fixed in place. This will facilitate lining the bolts up with the holes in the plastic insert and will also keep the window from falling down fully into the door.

Alternatively, if you have the window gap that this part failure causes and you’re concerned about water getting into the car before you can fix it permanently, you can slide your window up fully by hand and then affix that suction cup to the bottom of the window so it rests on the door panel. This will buy you some time and keep your window fully closed in the event of rain or exposure to the elements if you’re unable to make the repair quickly 🤙🏼



I needed the right rear replacement piece, which is part # kd537297x