It looks like my post disappeared. I don't see it, maybe everyone else does.

The extended warranty may be a good idea. I just wasn't willing to spend $3,000 before doing some research. And I think I could probably add it a little later if I decided I wanted it. So in that regard, I was unprepared. Another thing - next time I will insist the salesman I am dealing with via email attaches his final quote. I want to have it in my hand when I sit down at his desk the next day.

Glad to hear you found a good dealership. I'm not sure when I'll feel like trying this again. Kind of took the wind out of my sail for a while, and the prices will only drop as the 2020's hit the lots.

 

FRIENDLY BUT FIRM
Yeah, car shopping means "Caveat Emptor". (Buyer Beware)
I got a quote through Edmunds from one of the internet salesmen at a Las Vegas area dealer for $33,550. for a CX 5 GT Reserve, Red Crystsl Soul.
I told him "A clean deal, no dealer add-ons and a max of $300. for documentation fees." and he agreed.

So when I get there I'll please him by telling him I want options like roof rails and rack and maybe trunk "tonneau" cover. But of course, except tax and registration fee, "EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE" including the doc. fees and options.

You need to get an "order" of your specific car sent to the "internet salesmen" by an online entity like Edmunds. Internet salesmen/women are there to move metal in quantity, unlike the floor sharks - er salesmen.
Do some online research on how to buy a car. It helps a lot if you are inexperienced at "the game". And it IS a damn game, a very serious game. But I know how to pressure salesmen
The idea is to be a buyer who is friendly but firm.

Eric B.

 

Thanks, Eric. I have not bought a new car in 16 years, so I am out of practice. The thing is, those 16 years ago, I called all the local dealerships, got them working against each other until they all gave up upon hearing the final offer from one of the dealers. I went there, the car was ready, I did a test drive, the price was exactly what I had agreed on over the phone. Paperwork, including financing (0% back then) took 15 or 20 minutes. I'm still driving that car today, without having spent a dime on repairs. 2003 Subaru Outback Sport.

So I expected this deal to go the same way. It didn't. All the online negotiating meant nothing when I showed up to buy. I have this awful fault of trusting people and expecting them to be true to their word. I will probably contact that dealership that conducted itself with integrity all those years ago - it's a Mazda dealership as well as Subaru. I will be sure to have a specific price for a specific VIN when I go in.

 

Good luck Rob.
Be sure to remind them up front that THE reason you are there is because of your good experience with them 16 years ago. For sure there will be a different salesman so if you have any problems with him tell him you don't like his tactics and will now deal ONLY with the sales manager. This means he doesn't get his commission and it will wake him up.

BTW, after signing all the paperwork but before driving a car off the lot (i.e. legally "Taking Possession") examine the car thoroughly inside and out for defects like windshield aberrations, dents, and anything else wrong. If you find something such as a tiny dent in the hood as I did with a '98 Maxima, REFUSE to take the car off the lot until it is fixed. Tell them, "Call me when it is fixed.". They will jump to fix it b/c they know is not legally yours until you drive it off the lot. Guess what a mechanic told me when I went to pick up my Maximawith a new hood? "This is the third car that hood has been on." !!

Unfortunately this is the "way of the world" when it comes to buying a car, new or used.

Eric B.

 

I'm not sure that's true. The time to inspect the car is BEFORE you sign.
I believe, after you sign, you legally own the car, good or bad.