Had the three warning lights on, followed by engine management warning light. Turned out turbo was knackered. 86k on the engine. Turns out the same happened to my mechanic’s sisters CX5 the following week. So there seems to be a connection with those warning lights and the turbo blowing. Weird! Had to use a refurbished turbo as wasn’t forking out £2700 to the main dealer.

 

On our 2019 CX-5 Touring with 32,000 miles, we got the dreaded SCBS error. Looking in forums and Google search found advice about cleaning the sensors. Did that, no change. Reset the sensors to defaults made no difference. I had also come across mention of tire pressure.
Just before tomorrow's dealership appointment, I checked the tires; all were down around 30psi. (There was no warning from TPMS.) Filled to 34psi and test drove. Errors gone. Cruise works.
Very useful Forum. Thank you everyone.

(Also noted the Service Advisor mentioned the possibility of an EX Pass transponder in the ceiling tray may have triggered it so I willkeep an eye on this.

Will report back if it reoccurs.

 

If you do find the issue coming back check this video. Mine still have the issue and seems the scenario matches. Haven’t done it yet but found this last week.

 

So did you go back and have it calibrated? Did it resolve the issue?

 

I have a. 2.2d Sport Nav, Manual, 75k 2015.

I’ve had a good look around on this to see what the fault is that’s causing these issues and this is a list of potential causes/issues that I’ve identified. The fault lights/error typically (but not always) tend to happen when I am decelerating, going downhill, apply brakes, go over a bit of a dip/bump in the road surface.

The SCBS/TPMS lights when they come up along with the P0101 fault code are basically not the issue to focus on. Don’t spend time/money on the SCBS, focus on/prioritise the P0101 code.

Now a lot of the root cause of the P0101 code from what I have read are to do with the carbon build up at different points, e.g. sensors, throttle, intake manifold, damaged/blocked pipes or hoses.

There are also a couple of poor components that could be the issue (camshaft, sensors etc.).

There have been a couple of recalls around some of these as well, so make sure you’ve checked your VIN on the Mazda site for any recalls.

Possible causes I’ve identified:
-Intake shutter valve - soot accumulation - recall.
-Faulty Sensors - mass air flow sensor (swapped mine and it made no difference) I’ve also replaced the exhaust pressure sensor and DPF pressure sensor.
-Poor camshaft quality, causing excessive shavings and eventually leading to a Vacuum pump fault. I’ve seen it recommended to replace both the vacuum pump and have the cam shafts checked/replaced.
-Brake pedal sensor - read in one forum this fixed it but I think this may have been an outlier.
-Clogged DPF - I had this cleaned out and put in new sensors as part of a separate issue.
-full decoke. I’ve read that a full decoke could be the remedy, but I think this would be suitable for higher mileage
-clean/replace injectors
-clean/replace fuel pump (don’t think this is the issue for me)
-clean/replace turbo (don’t think and really hope this is the issue for me)

-general recommendations (apologies for stating the obvious!): try not to use supermarket fuels; make sure you drive it like a diesel should be driven - long runs on the motorway etc. and at least give it a good long run once a fortnight (>2500 RPM, >40mph, >20mins). Everyone has a different opinion on the revs/duration required - idea is to built up enough heat in the DPF to turn the carbon to ash (like a pyrolytic oven), get yourself even a basic OBD reader so you can see what the code(s) are before you go to a garage etc.

mine is due in for the intake shutter valve recall in December, I hadn’t realised there was a recall out as we moved during Covid and I hadn’t thought to check until I started getting error codes appearing.

will post back here if that makes a difference and anything the dealer recommends. As always, incredibly nervous of the costs if the dealer starts recommending things! Keen to get at least another 4/5 years out of the car as it’s generally been a brilliant car for us.

 

Hi there, same car same issue!!

Was the intake shutter valve recall in December a successful fix for your 2.2d Sport??

Was hoping to find a nailed solution on here but the shot is spread very wide!!!

Anyone else got new good info on P0101 fault code with SCBS, TPMS, engine light ??

Tks

 

Hi there, I’ve had the recall done and I no longer get the SCBS/TPMS lights etc coming on, only the engine light comes on now. So it has improved it slightly, although the fix they did was purely a software update, I queried this and they said the diagnostics tests they did showed there were no mechanical fixes required.

After the recall it did go a while before any warning lights came up but the engine light is now on again most the time. I believe it has to start/stop 40 times or something without an out of range reading before the light will go off by itself.

Having already changed the various sensors I’m just trying to stick to using better fuel, doing more motorway runs and using DPF cleaner in every other tank. MPG when the light is on drops quite significantly so along with the more expensive fuel is costing quite a bit more to run.

Nothing seems to be getting any worse at least, as long as it keeps passing the MOT hopefully can get another few years out of it.

Sorry couldn’t be more help! I would definitely do the recall to make sure you don’t make it any worse.

 

Well I’ve done a VIN check and there are no outstanding recalls …

I’ve found that the rear nearside wheel speed sensor is bad and also the boost pressure sensor is being flagged which probably accounts for a slightly lethargic drive at low rpm.

That’s the low hanging fruit for now and then take it from there.