rolmao

 

SO DID I and MORE!!!
While I sorta agree with some of your thoughts/theories ^^^^^
I had my own line of Performance Thermostats based off the STANT SUPER STANT for a ECU controlled engine ... but on any vehicle manufactured from about 2002 and newer and most defiantly on all vehicle from about 2016 and newer the ECU needs a calibration adjustment which most cant do not even the dealer. You give the impression there is no limits in adjusting values a ECU is capable of performing... its not.


I might point out because you would understand, my first real training in automotive performance ignition systems came directly from Dr Jacobs. I also had an oscilloscope in my shop in 1979 and still own one today.

 

No ego bruised from me... I think you know that by now and that I help and respond on selected threads based on training, experience and empirical information and data or I don't post.


OH and cute disclaimer...

YMMV=your milage may vary LOL

 

Front bearings going at 70K? Do you have a theory as to why they would be failing that fast?

 

Well. I guess you are saying the horrific roads you drive on are killing your wheel bearings. Along with your other front suspension components?

 

The roads I drive. You know they are roads because of the lack of large trees. I've had bearings fail on my truck after 20,000 miles because of the wash boarding. The dance over the bumps freaks a lot of people out. The bearings on my Mazda have a long way to go, but I don't wait when something starts to fail. The one time I ran down at Baja, it was like the roads by my farm. (Well, my heavy foot might have something to do with it too.)

 

There's definite wear, but this Mazda has lasted better than other cars I've had. I'm sure I'll be replacing the struts, tie rod ends and such before 100K. The only car I've ever had that was tougher was a Checker Marathon back in the 80's.

 

try if you have run flat tires to consider replacing them with none run flat tires

 

The most durable tires I use are Michelin's. The tread wear is pretty good. I do break a belt every now and then, but they generally hold up pretty well. Always keep your receipts on tires. It helps with prorating. On the trucks I use cheaper tires. Coopers on the Ram and Tradewinds (I never heard of them either) on the F150.

 

I remember a road in Maryland called 'Washboard Road'. Not the same as you are describing. It is a paved road with hillocks like very 50-100 yards or so and it goes on like that for a mile or two. Weird topography but no effect on a car like a real, dirt, washboard road as you are describing. I guess you can throw down $100K of pea gravel every year until you get it nice and level. That would be a good way to use your retirement money (not).

I wonder if people who buy the Subaru Outback Wilderness really intend to go riding off through the forest with their dandied-up 'beast'. The ground clearance may be raised but they are going to have the sh_t beat out of that vehicle if they try anything approaching what the advertising claims the vehicle can handle. They will spend thousands of dollars on alignments, suspension components, etc. and then they will ride on the highway to their country home and call it a day.

Could the original English Land Rover (or whatever the real thing was called) and the original Toyota Land Cruiser handle that kind of driving without the suspension going all to Hell in no time? If so, how did they manage that? Were the specs on the suspension components just that much higher?