The next time you're driving in the rain, especially if the sun is peeking under the edge of a cloud, look around for the white cars. They are hidden by the water thrown up by the tires. As hard as I run it at times, my CX-5 has been a beacon of reliability. The original battery died soon after I got it but everything since has been maintenance.

As for turbochargers, I'm ambivalent about those. The GF has an Equinox. I found one with the last of the non-turbo engines for her. The new ones all have little motors with turbos but friends still in the repair business told me about failures around 60-65K miles. When I looked into it deeper, I saw complaints where the turbo locks up in cold weather. How something driven by exhaust gasses can freeze up in cold weather is beyond me. I might buy a turbo charged engine new, but not used. I've seen people drive in off the interstate and pull up to the fuel pump and shut it off. I was taught to let the engine idle for a minute or two to let the oil pumped through the bearings cool them so they don't coke up sitting.

 

You don't need to do this on modern turbo motors.

 

OMG really dude ROLMAO


Well really you have very little experience and only read information you can find. , Been down this road with you so often I am surprised you would respond on a technical subject

The fact is the cool down is always a good idea when you just boosted a Turbo charger..... REGARDLESS of what platform it is on. Oil will still cook in the oil lines at the Turbo if the Turbo has been super heated by booting for a long period of time or in spirted driving and then shut off to soon after that run. Fortunately for the average driver this does not happen often on a platform that is not a sport or semi sport platform. But to no need to do it is not to be prudent for the safety of protecting the Turbocharger and engine with such a simple procedure...


A NA or none super charged or Turbocharged engine after a spirited driving run or competition use, it is always a good practice to drive a few easy miles to let all the temperatures normalize regaining normal operating temperatures , that is if you have any value in your engine longevity.

 

Beware of assumed knowledge. In 1988 a new paint process was introduced that didn't require as much preparation. Around 1990, it became apparent, it did require it. That's why so many cars and trucks from the late 80's into the 1990's had the paint falling off. White is still problematic. I will continue to use a cool down time after heavy driving the few times I drive a turbo. I don't know about other companies but GM is having failures on the turbos now out. Both running failures around 65,000 miles as well as newer engines failing in cold weather.

Granted, while full synthetic oil is less prone to coking, it can still cook. A life time of experience has served me well and I still do things the way I was trained when I was young. The use of dielectric grease on battery terminals. I never had hydrochloric corrosion on my terminals. Even with the spray protectant and felt pads.

As much as I like my current car, when it wears out, I might buy a newer one, but not one with a turbo. I just don't want a used car that had the turbo cooked repeatedly. The 2.5 in my car is quite adequate for my needs and I'm rather surprised I haven't gotten a ticket with it.....yet.

 

There you go again Cali.... For "daily driving" situations where the engine isn't being pushed to the limits, there is no need for a "cool down". Certainly if you are at a track day, or just pulled off the highway after a long high speed (80-90mph) drive a cool down is a great idea. I stand by my assertion that turbos of today are WAY different than the turbos of yore... But certainly, do what you wish with your own car. I certainly will. The chances of being able to prove either method is superior is slim to none as we aren't doing a documented study with my car vs yours and there are far too many other variables in play.

I am sure you won't like my reference, but here you go anyway...

https://www.pressherald.com/2017/12/...ger-necessary/

 

R
OLMAO dude you are one for the books. Try and actually do some thing for yourself instead of finding internet information to support you less than accurate information. **But no real empirical DATA to support many of their informational? LOL)

I doubt you even know without looking how hot a Turbo gets even with a daily driver and how that effects the temperature of the oil. The ECU calibration for Turbocharged engine compensates for the temperature increases and on daily driver lowers the power levels which effect MPG most noticed by thought that have turbocharged daily drivers.. I would also like for you to check out the oil tube to the Turbo on even a well kept and maintained Turbocharged daily driver and see for yourself how the oil does cook in the tube. You are living in a dream world to even state that it is not necessary or at least now that we talked about a simple practice to drive normally after having a little fun with a Turbocharged engine.

You should really consider finding better supporting examples besides an article written from other experienced technicians. LOL oh and that article talks about "COKEING" which is one part of my responses or do you need to go re-read my responses again. LOL

I am sorry but when it comes to members on "FORUMS" regarding anything you suggest having to do with technical information they really should think twice. LOL

 

Good luck finding a newer vehicle without a turbo. As engines continue to get smaller and smaller, they will need a turbo to move a 4000 lb SUV.
GM and Honda both have 1.5L (91 cubic inches) engines both with turbo. I can help but believe that those turbos are working most all the time when the
vehicle is moving. Dodge is killing off the Hemi and their 'new' engine is a turbo six. We'll see more of that in years ahead.
In my case, I have ~3 miles of in city driving before and after the four lane highway so an extended cool down isn't as important.
YMMV.

 

Your weight to power ration is all inaccurate, also the assumption that a normally aspirated fuel injected engine specifically a Direct Injection Engine cant produce the torque or horsepower fto support your off the cuff example of a 4000 lb suv..
Care to know what my Mazda 3 sedan certified by the state of CA which is also Federal weights and measurement scale compliance regulations wet weight is? Please dont run to the internet because most that I have read the advertised information is not correct. LOL You may also look into why Turbo became so popular with "MANUFACTURES. This would need you to look at who holds the highest world market and the emission standards required to sell vehicles in that country. Hence a Turbocharged engine makes it easier. And is a easy sell to the public.

Also NO no no the Turbocharger is not working all the time. Thats called boosting or boost. In reality the turbocharger when they do boost on average and average I am back to daily driver they seldom boost more then a few lbs which barley pushes the scale up of HP and torque on a DYNO it is so small no one in the auto manufacturing industry would even mention it. I do realize that if you are loaded or climbing a mountain things change but they change even for none turbocharged engines. If daily driven vehicles that were turbocharged spent a high percentage of time on boost mid to upper levels and that were the case there would be a whole new set of problems. I might suggest to brush up all about what a Turbocharger is and how it works also how the auto manufacture program the algorithms to control engine operation in a safe manor to first and foremost protect the engine next time before making such claims of performance information about them.


I am also very entertained to see you post that 3 miles is not important....LOL It takes at WOT about on average 3-10 (depends on the model) seconds to reach maximum boost on most stock engine MAZDA's from about the 2016 and newer. In that time ALL the engine operating temperature will exponentially raise. It takes about 3-5 minutes to normalize once off max level boost. Now you can say that you drive slow and that would mean you NEVER even produced a single lb of boost your complete 3 mile trip. LOL

 

You miss my point, no surprise there. The ~3 mile city driving will reduce the heat load on the turbo when coming off the 4 lane, so it would reduce the cool down seconds I give the turbo at the end of a drive. The 4000 lb comment was that many crossovers and SUV clock in at or near that weight. You can add a couple of people on top as well.
I'm not a lead foot driver and have yet done a WOT run. No need in my useage.

 

That is so true about the turbo's - When I was looking for a new car. It was all small engine with a turbo pretty much everywhere. I cant imagine something like a GM SLT Terrain with a 1.5L engine, it just seems wrong....