Hi, just picked up a 2016 GT CX5. I'm in need of help in picking out a hitch. Most of my needs are for a bike rack(2 bikes at most) and maybe the occasional small trailer. 4x6.
Should I go aftermarket 2 or factory 1 1/4 inch? Looks like more options with the 2 inch hitch.
I'm having the dealer do the install so if any gremlins crop up in the electrical system, they're on the hook. For the 1 1/4 they need to notch the black fascia of the bumper, the 2 inch not. Will the 2 inch hang lower than the factory 1 1/4?

Opinions welcome, thanks.

 

If that is all you are using it for a two inch hitch is over kill. The two inch will hang lower than the 1 1/4". The install is pretty clean even with the bumper notched. I recommend going to autozone or advanced auto parts and picking up a package of universal door edge trim. You can use it around the bumper where the hitch is cut out. Makes for a very clean install. Should only cost 5 dollars.

 

WARNING! Many CX-5 owners have been burned by letting the dealer install the OE Mazda accessory hitch and do a poor job of notching the bumper. If that's the route you take, be absolutely sure they know what they're doing (as in: have them show you another install they've completed). The Mazda hitch is the only one that requires the bumper to be notched. Curt makes both 1.25" and 2" hitches that don't require this, cost half as much as the Mazda unit and (yes) do hang a little lower than the OE unit. Here are a few informative threads from "that other" CX-5 forum: Curt, Drawtite or Reese Hitch? Can Anyone Recommend A Good Hitch? Dealer installed hitch - hack-job on the bumper notch

 

Which ever towbar, or Hitch you pick, you must only use the Factory wiring loom. There are too many electronic units on-board that you risk blowing up or setting fire to if you use inferior products.

 

I decided that having the bumper cut was not going to happen. After having a moon roof installed in my wife's Nissan many years ago, by the dealer, I thought never again add anything that involved altering the car body. The moon roof never worked right, lots of noise and a few water leaks.
I had a weak moment there for awhile but with your help came to my senses.
Factory wiring and Curt hitch it is. $400 by the dealer, not too bad.

Thanks all.

Btw, I love this ride.

 

I would go with this hitch
Trailer Hitch by Curt for 2016 CX-5 - C12080

And this wiring
Trailer Hitch by Curt for 2016 CX-5 - C12080

I used the Mazda TRAILER HITCH HARNESS KIT but the Etrailer kit is easer because with the exception of the 12 volts and ground, it just plugs in.

You may want to use the Mazda instructions for getting 12 volts, and for how to remove panels http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809...tchharness.pdf

 

Your risk several thousands of dollars damage by not using the Genuine wiring harness. I've seen the damage 1st hand by people cutting corners & fitting inferior wiring.

The genuine loom is a piece of **** to fit. 100% plug & play. It has a fancy module to regulate voltage & prevent short circuits & spikes.

 

I installed the factory loom
The factory wiring harness is a rebadged commercial modual and is not plug and play. It requires splicing into the original wiring. See the PDFs directions above.

Even if you somehow destroyed the cars rear lighting modual I don't see how you could do thousands of dollars of damage.

Some people have damaged the rear modual by incorrectly installing LED trunk lighting. I have never read of anyone damaging the cars wiring by installing a wiring harness. I have installed 5 commercial moduals my self plus two that I built my self back in the 60s when "foreign" cars were rare

 

I'm having Mazda do the work, so they'll own it. Damage the wiring? No problem, back to the dealer. It's worth the extra $$ to me to have it done at the dealer.

 

Fdew, where in the world are you?

Attached is the PDF for CX-5 Towbar wiring used in New Zealand & Australia.