Hello everybody. I'm about to add my very first second car to my arsenal. I'm about to buy a 1994 Miata (M edition?). It's got a load of miles on it, about 236,000 (way higher than anything I've ever owned), and I know there are a few problems. For example, the rear window is brown and opaque. Also, oil is leaking and possibly being burned. I can see leaks on the valve cover gasket, but that's all I saw when I looked at it. Also, water is dissappearing like it's a 1980s trend, so I have to tow it home (U-Hall anyone?).

My plan: I'd like to take my Z3 off the track and only use that now for driving on roads. I'm a little tired of beating on it at auto-x events and such. I'm getting this car for $100. No, I didn't miss a 0 there. $100. It runs great except for the leaks and the interior is in pretty good shape (much of which I'll be selling). I found out when I looked at it today (and so did the owner) that the car's first or second owner put adjustable shocks on it (one of which is blown or just waaaay out of adjustment). Also, I noticed when I was putting the top down that it does have a nice roll bar with an additional bar that goes right behind the head-rests that I think I can strap a harness to--this thing probably was auto-xed in its past life.

Anyway, I'm really excited. The last time I drove a Miata, it was th 1.6 liter engine and it was probably 5 years ago. And I remember that being a ton of fun. So this baby is going to get a complete engine makeover (the body is fantastic, free of rust, and that dark blue color) and see double duty as an auto-x car and an HPDE toy. Does anyone have any recommendations or precautions that I should know before I get into this too far? I know that all cars have their trends. The Z3s' trunk floors and differentials, for example tend to tear away under high hp applications (M roadsters in particular). Is there anything along those lines that appears to happen to the Miatas? I heard that the crank pulley bolt (s) has some issues, but the fix seems pretty easy (especially when I get the engine out of the car).

I'm sure the valve-cover gasket is toast. I was told the water is coming from the radiator, but it's possible that the head-gasket is toast as well (no matter, it's getting replaced).

I'm really excited. I'm also aware that I'm probably going to take a lot of heat from my friends about driving a "girl car". I already get it with the Z3 which looks strikingly similar to a phallice. Hey, I'll get some practicality back though. I'll finally have four seats and a decent trunk (if you combine the two together!).

 

The issue with the crank keyway wallering out was addressed pre 1994 edition so you should have no problem there.What was causing the keyway to waller out was the a/c bracket that bolted to the block was losing bolts and causing the a/c belt to flop repeatedly until it screwed the keyway up. Doubt you will be using a/c. Thicker sway bars are a must if not already done. Neoprene bushings etc. As far as the engine goes i doubt it has a blown head gasket,those engines are pretty much bulletproof unless you really really abuse it. The cam sensor on the back of the head has an o-ring that leaks oil and the v/c gasket,front crank and cam seals and thats about it.

 

Thanks! I'll make sure I look into all of that when I'm doing the rebuild. (It's my first engine rebuild too. But I have a friend who builds lots of Subaru engines. He's going to be a big help.)

 

They make turbo kits for them. Maybe port the heads a bit. Little bowl work,headers and a turbo, balance the crank,set of coated pistons with apiston to cylinder wall clearance a bitlooser than specand it would scream.