01 Milly S
#1
01 Milly S
I have a 2001 Millenia S. It has 63,000 on it and i was wondering how hard it is to replace the timing belt or should i just take it to a shop. I did the plugs by myself but the timing belt is just a question I'm wondering. Is there any one out there who has a 01-02 Bose Head Unit/CD Player for sale?
My car is also for sale for what ever i owe on it... If interrested let me know I can check the bank and give a price.
My car is also for sale for what ever i owe on it... If interrested let me know I can check the bank and give a price.
#4
RE: 01 Milly S
Twenty. Two-zero. It requires removal of just about everything on the passenger side on the motor. You must work from the top and bottom. I do not have a lift so I was on the floor alot. There is not much space to work in so it makes this job challenging. Once your in there, you should consider replacing the water pump.
I could likely do it faster now that I know what is involved but it's still double-digit hours for me.
Here's a pic of the disassembled engine.
Water pump seat (center), Crank timing gear (lower center), Front bank Cam timing gear (right).
Before you remove the two drive belts for your accessories, make a diagram of the belt paths. They are a bit complex to remember.
I could likely do it faster now that I know what is involved but it's still double-digit hours for me.
Here's a pic of the disassembled engine.
Water pump seat (center), Crank timing gear (lower center), Front bank Cam timing gear (right).
Before you remove the two drive belts for your accessories, make a diagram of the belt paths. They are a bit complex to remember.
#6
RE: 01 Milly S
I put on new drive belts as both of mine were old.
There are lots of bolts. Put them in zipbags and label the bags.
Loosen the nuts/bolts on the PS pump pulley, crank pulley and water pump pulley before removing the drive belts. After the belt is off it's very difficult to hold them from turning. At reassembly, re-torque after drive belts are installed.
Check condition of all the idlers for both drive belts and the timing belt.
Check the condition of the timing belt tensioner. Make sure no oil is leaking.
Timing belt covers have gaskets. I was able to reuse mine.
Use antisieze lube on the bolts and don't over torque. Many of these bolts are threaded into the aluminum block and can strip out easily.
I had to buy a set of metric deep sockets to do this job (only had shallows on hand) and an 8 mm allen wrench (fits bolt holding timing belt tension pulley).
Also the radiator hose manifold has two oring seals that I replaced. Had to get from Mazda dealer $12. You could risk reusing old ones but I wasn't willing to redo it if they leaked. My manual said to remove this manifold but you may not have to. Dealer told me none of the techs ever replaced these orings. I did. No leaks. I'm happy.
There are lots of bolts. Put them in zipbags and label the bags.
Loosen the nuts/bolts on the PS pump pulley, crank pulley and water pump pulley before removing the drive belts. After the belt is off it's very difficult to hold them from turning. At reassembly, re-torque after drive belts are installed.
Check condition of all the idlers for both drive belts and the timing belt.
Check the condition of the timing belt tensioner. Make sure no oil is leaking.
Timing belt covers have gaskets. I was able to reuse mine.
Use antisieze lube on the bolts and don't over torque. Many of these bolts are threaded into the aluminum block and can strip out easily.
I had to buy a set of metric deep sockets to do this job (only had shallows on hand) and an 8 mm allen wrench (fits bolt holding timing belt tension pulley).
Also the radiator hose manifold has two oring seals that I replaced. Had to get from Mazda dealer $12. You could risk reusing old ones but I wasn't willing to redo it if they leaked. My manual said to remove this manifold but you may not have to. Dealer told me none of the techs ever replaced these orings. I did. No leaks. I'm happy.
#7
RE: 01 Milly S
Good advise on replace items. Few other quick notes from one who has done many Make sure to check the t-belt tensioner as it can collapse. When removed the piston will fully extend and you should not be able to compress it by hand. Very slow compression with a vise and hold into place with small cotter pin or stiff wire should work. If can compress piston by hand it is toast and needs replaced. Tensioners should last ok up to 120k but free spin and if they make noise or feel rough to turn with pressure consider replacement. Also do not forget front engine oil seals that seal oil from leaking past the front of the camshafts and crankshaft. Oil leaking into this area will shorten the life of your timing belt beyond belief and will also destroy from t-belt cover gasket and eventually covers. Remember that these seals have been working as long as everything else in the engine and can be very prone to leaks. Seals are super cheap compared to the time and labor involved in going back inside. I can put a t-belt on an S in 4-5 hours but have been doing for many years and have $80k in tools at my disposal. Most important, do not overlook anything. Inspect each part as it is removed and make a determination if it is something you want to go back in after in 5-20k miles. I understand Gates has some kits that include all of the needed tensioners, belts, etc needed to do the job. A check to your local parts store on availability and cost to start would get you started on the right track.
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