FIRST THANKS FOR THE SPEELLING CORRECTION. PLEASE GIVE ME A BREAK ON MY SENTENCE STRUCTURE & GRAMMAR.
#4 GRND HAS ONE BOLT AND 5 WIRES, BOTH OUTER ARE BLACK (B) TWO BLACK/BLUE (B/L) AND A BLACK/RED (B/R)
THE TRACER COLOR IS ALWAYS A STRIPE, UNLESS I POST DIFFERENTLY. OHMMETER, BLACK LEAD TO NEG BATT POST, RED LEAD
TO #4 BOLT. LOWER THE READING THE BETTER. YES, RETIGHTEN #4 BOLT, YOU'LL NOTICE THAT IT IS CONNECTED TO A
BRACKET WHICH HAS ONE THE MOUNTING BOLT FOR THE INTERCOOLER RUNNER, LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN AS WELL. TO ACCESS #4
YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE ANYTHING IT RIGHT ON TOP.
TCM CONNECTOR (A) YOU DISCONNECT IT TO TEST (WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE IGN IS OFF AND CHECK THE WIRE
FOR VOLTAGE BEFORE CHECKING FOR RESISTANCE. THIS WILL SAVE YOUR OHMMETER FROM DAMAGE.)
DOESN'T MATTER WHICH SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR YOU PROBE, AS LONG AS YOU DON'T BEND OR DAMAGE IT SO WON'T RE-
CONNECT. UNDER THE DASH, AT THE TCM YOU CONNECT THE OHMMETER TO (A) B/L THEN TO GRND. YOU CAN TRY THE TCM CASE
OR ANY OF THE GOLD COLOR MOUNTS NUTS. IF THESE READINGS ARE HIGH; USE YOUR METER WITH AN EXTENSION, CONNECT
EXTENSION TO ONE LEAD, CONNECT THE OTHER LEAD TO THE OPPOSITE END OF THE EXTENSION, IF YOU HAVE READING OF
LET SAY 0.2 OHM JUST ADD THAT TO THE TEST RESULTS. TOTAL RESISTANCE. IS YOUR WORKSHOP MANUAL A MAZDA FACTORY
ONE? IF IT IS GO TO CHAPTER 05, SECTION 02B, PAGE 29.
* IF ALL CHECKS OK, GO AROUND WIGGLING THE WIRE HARNESSES IN THESE AREAS. TEST DRIVE TO SEE IF MIL ILLUMINATES. *
MIL OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ARE WARNING THAT SOMETHING IN ONE OF IT SYSTEMS HAS FAILED, OUT OF SPEC, ETC.
DEPENDING ON WHICH SYSTEM CODE # HAS OCCURRED, DETERMINES HOW IMPORTANT IT IS AND WHAT EFFECT IT MAY CAUSE.
IF IT'S SOMETHING THAT WILL DAMAGE SAY THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER, THE LIGHT WILL FLASH. OTHER CODES IF THE SIGNAL
IS LOST, THE MODULE WILL USE A PRESET VALUE. STILL IN OTHER CASES AS THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL TRANSMISSION, IT WILL
GO TO A LIMP HOME MODE GIVING YOU SAY REVERSE AND ONE FORWARD GEAR.
SORRY TO HEAR ABOUT THE SATURN SITUITION, A LOT OF TECHNICANS WILL LOOK DOWN ON ANOTHER CAR LINE. TRY TALKING TO THE SERVICE MANAGER TO FIND OUT WHICH HE'S SENDING TO TRAINING AND HAVE HIM OR HER WORK ON YOUR CAR. I KNOW
WHAT IT LIKE, WE HAVE 14 TECHS HERE AND I'M THE ONLY ONE WHO TRULY ENJOY WORKING ON THEM. THEY'LL DO ALL THE MAIN-
TENANCE WORK, BUT DON'T WANT ANYTHING MORE DIFFICULT. * MAY NOT LOGIN UNTIL MONDAY *

 

rotormotor2, for your vehicle speed sensor problem you can pick up a new sensor at autozone.com and install it yourself, take off the cover underneath the left front wheel and it should be around that area there. this fixed the same hard shifting problem i had, it was revving to about 5-6k rpms before shifting to the next gear, 2nd. after that, if you notice that it shifts at about the correct rpms but it stills shifts hard even at the regular rpms, i would suggest you look at the motor mounts and notice if you have any vibration while your engine is idling at a light. the vehicle speed sensor problem should be easy to fix.

 

slasherx, I just might replace it just to see if it is better but I think it would throw a code or make my MPH gauge inaccurate if it were bad, and I think motormounts are good because it is smooth on idle and all other conditions other than first to second shift, I already had a tranny flush.

gtxtreme, I apoligise if you misunderstood me, I was not trying to correct you on spelling or grammer or sentence structure at all because I by far am not perfect at all myself, I was meerly asking questions for things that I did not understand, scroll up, everywhere I have a question mark means I don't know, like for instance I still don't know some abriviations. Well with that aside I ran the tests you mentioned and with the #4 unplugged and test between wires and terminal I got 4.16 ohm and 0.15 ohm to #4 bolt hole with it still unplugged and 0.3 ohm with it plugged in. and under the dash I got 0.6 ohm.
I think mayby I need to replace the battery in my Craftsman digital multimeter? also just as another random test and just curious i tryed to start the car with the #4 bolt out and it would not crank, then i tightened the #4 bolt back in and with the (A)16 pin connector under the driver dash/kickpanel unplugged the car did start but threw a code P1601 so i plugged it back in and the code remained on and then i cleared the code.
well anything else anybody?

 

no the speed sensor will not affect the speedometer, it will make the exact descript as you said. it will shift really hard from 1st to 2nd but not always, and sometimes the hold light will flash after the hard shift into second. keep in mind this doesnt always happen, the hard shift and the ensuing flashing hold light. these hard shifts will only take place from 1st to 2nd. i fixed my problems by replacing the sensor. if it was a problem with the transmission, then you would have hard shifts at any point, not just from 1st to 2nd.

 

WHAT slasherx IS REFERING TO IS THE OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR ( OTHER NAMES TURBINE SPEED SENSOR; DRUM SPEED SENSOR)
DIAGNOSITC TROUBLESHOOTING CODE (DTC) P0720 IS FOR OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION.


YOU CAN TEST THE OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR WITH YOUR OHMMETER. THE CONNECTOR IS LOCATED ON BACK SIDE OF BANK1
INTERCOOLER ( THE ONE WITH PLASTIC AIR DUCT WHICH YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE TO REMOVE; THREE BOLTS) SHOULD BE TWO WIRE CONNECTOR ONE IS (R) RED AND THE OTHER IS (W) WHITE; SHOULD BE THE TOP ONE OF FOUR.
ATF TEMPERATURE SHOULD BE BETWEEN 68-176F; RESISTNACE READING OF 500-1000 OHMS.
DTC P1601 IS COMMUNICATION LINE ERROR BETWEEN PCM AND TCM WHICH WAS SET WHEN YOU HAD THE TCM DISCONNECTED
DURING TESTING. NO HARM DONE.
AS YOU DISCOVERED THE #4 GROUND CAN HAVE A VERY WIDE EFFECT THRU SEVERAL SYSTEMS AND WHY I STARTED THERE. AT THIS POINT, UNLESS THE
P1720 HAS RETURNED, MOST LIKELY IT WAS INTERMITTANT AND WHY THE DEALER WANTED THE CODE SET IN THE PCM MEMORY.
I PRINTED OUT TEN PAGES FO POSTS, WILL REVIEW FOR OTHER IDEAS.

 

Well I havent looked yet but is this sensor like an abs type sensor, ? like a magnet type sensor close to a gear wheel? and also why does the tranny fluid have to be up to temp in order to test? anybody got a page # handy for my shop manuel? (yes its a factory manuel)

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Jeremy, the output speed sensor is a magnetic pickup type sensor, generates alternating current waveforms which the transmission
control module converts into the output shaft speed. This is not the vehicle speed sensor but signal use to determine shift point etc.
Test procedure on page 05-17B-21. The 2002 Millenia S does not have a vehicle speed sensor, 95 thru 01 did. The ABS module,
thru it's wheel speed sensors, generate the signal for the PCM, TCM, instrument cluster (speedo) etc. Marty

 

hey marty (gtx)I have an 02' also and it has that hard shift problem too. If I read correctly did you mean that the abs module needs to be replaced in the 2002 since it does not have the other sensor that was suggested in the other posts?