1995 Millenia 2.5 154,000 miles.
I read the posts of a couple people here who seem to really know about the trouble codes. I have an intermittent stalling problem I just can't figure out. I'll be driving down the highway with the cruise on and out of knowwhere the cars just seems to quit running. car starts to slow down and then it just picks up again. If I am at slower speeds or at a stop, it just dies. No warning at all. No hesitation, no rough idle, nothing. Sometimes when I am on the highway, it almost seems to jerk me forward for a brief instant and then picks back up normal. The feeling is like it missed all 6 cylinders for one full cycle and then kept going. About a week ago this happened to my wife driving a few times and then the harmonic balancer fell off the car! So we got that fixed but the main problem remains - intermittent stalling that I cannot duplicate. I let it sit in my driveway for an hour and a half yesterday running and it never died. Today, 10 minutes down the road, it died at a stoplight and would not restart for about 5 minutes - about 15 tries.
Then it started like normal and nothing went wrong after.

So I went next to get my very first OBDII scan tool. I got a nice Actron that includes a freeze frame ability. I plugged it in and drove until I died. When I died, I pulled up the following:

P1195 - I know this isn;t the problem by the way. I pulled the EGR boost sensor or some other part out about 2 years ago to solve an intermittent stalling problem when driving in the city and when I totally removed it, it ran fine ever since. About 30,000 miles without a single stall. The stalling I am running into now is different. The other gave some warning and would not restart until the car sat long enough to cool down. The engine light has been on for two years running just fine with this P1195 code active.

P1000 - Since I have ruled out the P1195, I am assuming this is the culprit.

My capture - if that's what it is, gives the following info....

Speed 28 mph
RPM 1089
Load Value 15.6%
Coolant 199 degrees
Short term fuel trim 1 -1%
Short TFT 2 -4.9%
Long Term Fuel Trim 2 -4.6%
Short TFT3 +17.1%
Long TFT3 -12.1%
Short TFT +83.5%

Now I am assuming that this captured at the time the car died. I don't know if I am using this right.

My first instinct was the distributor. I replaced it with a used one about a year ago. It acted a bit different, but while I am trying to start the car after a stall, I get that "no fire or fuel" feeling. One of the two seems missing. If it turns out to be the distributor, I'll buy a new one this time. I have read that the older distributors suffer from a problem of leaking current from one of the coils to the other. Not sure if this applies here, but it sounds interesting.

What I am trying to avoid is buying a new $400 distributor and then finding out that wasn't the problem. I know I can test the resistance with an ohm meter, but if this is a voltage leak that is intermittent, I am not sure that would show up on such a test. Is there any way with my new scanner that I can pin this down?

I'm a new member here but I did at least take the time to answer a wuestion for someone else before I asked one. Any help would be appreciated.