2000 milly s ,,,stalling
#11
01-31-2012 | 01:09 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 983
From:
i just read a post on the other forum, mazdaworld.org on cleaning the throttle body. i have never had to do this, but that may be part of your problem:
Okay, big improvement in idle and low speed pick up off the line when touching the throttle.
I was only able to clean maybe 70% of the gunk from the throttle body mounted on the car. It was difficult/impossible to get the stuff way back behind the throttle butterfly, and the stuff on the top side of the throttle body, due to the awkward angle.
I was afraid to remove it because the original 13 year old gasket looked kind of beat. So I think I'm going to order a new throttle body gasket and pull the throttle body and clean it on a bench. I'm hoping that should really smooth out the idle. The build up is almost like black cement on the throttle body. So the only way to really clean it good is to remove the throttle body.
I think if you cleaned it every year or two you could just spray it down on the car. But after a decade + of driving without cleaning, it really needs to be pulled to get a good cleaning.
__________________
if i were to clean the t/b, i would remove it from the car. this person did not, but he said there was a big improvement
Okay, big improvement in idle and low speed pick up off the line when touching the throttle.
I was only able to clean maybe 70% of the gunk from the throttle body mounted on the car. It was difficult/impossible to get the stuff way back behind the throttle butterfly, and the stuff on the top side of the throttle body, due to the awkward angle.
I was afraid to remove it because the original 13 year old gasket looked kind of beat. So I think I'm going to order a new throttle body gasket and pull the throttle body and clean it on a bench. I'm hoping that should really smooth out the idle. The build up is almost like black cement on the throttle body. So the only way to really clean it good is to remove the throttle body.
I think if you cleaned it every year or two you could just spray it down on the car. But after a decade + of driving without cleaning, it really needs to be pulled to get a good cleaning.
__________________
if i were to clean the t/b, i would remove it from the car. this person did not, but he said there was a big improvement
#12
02-01-2012 | 12:07 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
wrong again. even if the COMPRESSOR(i believe supercharger is to otto cycle what compressor is to miller cycle) is bad, the car will run. it will even feel just like the compressor is working, up to about 1500 rpm, then it will still be smooth, but there will be no power. again, i would check the battery. the 2.3 just dont like to run if the battery is weak. at idle you should be getting 14.4 volts. when it gets to 2500, the alternator is putting out max, so even if the battery is weak, the input from the alternator would overcome the weak battery. if a coil is weak, it will still run, and miss occasionally, but generally miss under heavy load, and boost, but still not throw a code. if the coil is beyond weak and near death, it will miss badly, and you will get a ce lite, in extreme cases, it will flash. the only other thing i can think of is a huge intake leak, so when you mash it, unmetered air mixes with metered air, and the system cannot compensate for the extra air, and goes super lean, stalling. or possible throttle position switch, but tps is rare on a 2.3. however, given the age of the car, anything can happen. i have seen, and have encountered myself, bad fuel injectors, which in the past was extremely rare, but has become more common now, as the cars age.
ok the cel came on and it started missing it said that the no.4 injecter was bad the thing that is buging me the must is why would it just start doing this right after i floored it i think i didnt put the right plugs in it when i changed them last and i did see some oil in the intercooler when i took it off i think i am just going to part this thing out
#13
02-01-2012 | 12:48 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 983
From:
ok the cel came on and it started missing it said that the no.4 injecter was bad the thing that is buging me the must is why would it just start doing this right after i floored it i think i didnt put the right plugs in it when i changed them last and i did see some oil in the intercooler when i took it off i think i am just going to part this thing out
#14
02-02-2012 | 10:26 AM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
there is no code for injector. there is one for cylinder. and if you put in the wrong plugs, then they are probably not at the proper gap, which puts a HUGE strain on the coils, and they will fail. so by skimping on the correct part, this is what you get. and wrong plugs/wrong gap would explain why it is stalling
the plugs were put in like 6 mons ago this started a few weeks ago and they are at the right gap but i was reading something and they said to put nkg in it and i know i didnt use them and am not skimming on parts i payed like 8.00 each for them and the code i got i look up and it said it was no. 4 injector and it was on 5 diff sites and they all said the same
#15
02-03-2012 | 03:20 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 983
From:
the plugs were put in like 6 mons ago this started a few weeks ago and they are at the right gap but i was reading something and they said to put nkg in it and i know i didnt use them and am not skimming on parts i payed like 8.00 each for them and the code i got i look up and it said it was no. 4 injector and it was on 5 diff sites and they all said the same
#16
02-07-2012 | 04:36 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
I have a 1999 Millenia S with the 2.3 Miller Cycle, and have found that a fuel contaminated with water will create havoc with the knock sensor and ecm. The initial symptom can be problems accelerating from low rpms. If you buy gas from different sources, I recommend adding a bottle of heet or other fuel system water remover to each tank. I also suspected that the actual octane rating of the "premium" fuel at some gas stations may be lower than the 91 posted on the pump. I found that adding a bottle of octane boost to each tank has corrected my problem and prevented knock and the ecm from going into "limp home mode." I would also say that previous posters are correct in telling you to check your battery, I found that the optima battery my car came with to be deceptive when I measured it for voltage and not for load. If the system voltage drops below 12v, the ecm begins to throw erratic codes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
